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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Will be replacing the engine in my saab 95 turbo auto this weekend? you guys got any tip? Do a have to take the engine and box out hole or can a getaway with just the engine leaving the box in place? was think it could save me a few bob on auto box oil as some can bust your balls in the price of it...

cheers..
 

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There are several posts about engine removal, so I urge you to do a search, but I will also give you my comments as I just performed this myself.

I opted to take the engine out the bottom and here are some very general instructions on how to do this.
  1. Disconnect air intake hoses, intercooler hoses, radiator fan, drain coolant and disconnect coolant hoses to firewall, coolant reservoir, radiator, etc.
  2. Remove Drive belt, unbolt power steering pump and leave all power steering lines attached.
  3. Remove throttle cable, throttle body, fuel rail, electrical connections and place aside. I recommend not disconnecting things like fuel rail etc. just disconnect it from intake manifold and place off to the side wrapped in a plastic bag
  4. Disconnect wiring from tranny, gear selector, grounds (2 on transmission) etc.
  5. Lift car and secure on jack stands, remove wheels, axle nuts, remove passenger side CV axle, but leave drivers side CV axle in place in the tranny
  6. Remove Passenger side wheel cover and any other plastic protectors under the car (this will create some space to pull the engine out the passenger side wheel well
  7. Remove exhaust, downpipe through the flex pipe place aside with oxygen sensor attached.
  8. Disconnect Sub Frame, this includes disconnecting rear engine pad, front torque arm mount, 6 subframe bolts, power steering lines attached to subframe, other lines attached, support radiator, intercooler with a strap (see WIS for more detailed instructions on subframe removal)
  9. Disconnect lines to radiator: Transmission cooling. Then disconnect Air Conditioning lines from compressor. Disconnect oil cooler and let it hang.
  10. Lower subframe and place out of the way (you may use an engine beam, but this isn't totally necessary as the right engine mount and tranny mount will hold the engine up.
  11. Remove last of connections: positive cable going to starter and alternator, vacuum lines, anything else you didn't disconnect.
  12. Position engine hoist on engine (I used a large lifting strap around the engine) and take weight off engine mounts
  13. Remove the engine mounts and lower engine onto a wooden furniture dolly
  14. Disconnect engine from hoist and now comes the tricky part. I initially didn't have tall enough jack stands to get the engine out, so I used my engine hoist around the frame of the car to lift it high enough to be able to remove the engine.
  15. make sure you have some oversized jack stands and set in place (12 ton jack stands from Harbor Freight tools were $60 with 20% off coupon)
  16. Remove engine lift and then pull engine out from under the car. You need to remove the engine hoist because the legs which go under the car prevent you from pulling the engine on the dolly out.
  17. You now have the engine out of the car with the transmission attached.
  18. Put back in with opposite steps of removal

I very well may have missed some steps, but this is the general procedure I followed. While the engine is out do some very easy things like drop the oil pan, replace idler pulley (this is difficult when the engine is in place because of length of bolt), etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Take it out from the bottom looked like a lot more work realy? i was more thinking it would be easyer from the top after taking a quick look under the bonnet. was thinking that i could make a quick short cut by leaving the auto box in place. I was told that the new engine had done about 50k turbo looks clean in the inlet side etc.. had the sump off at work today and cleaned the pick up etc out.
 

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Take it out from the bottom looked like a lot more work realy? i was more thinking it would be easyer from the top after taking a quick look under the bonnet. was thinking that i could make a quick short cut by leaving the auto box in place. I was told that the new engine had done about 50k turbo looks clean in the inlet side etc.. had the sump off at work today and cleaned the pick up etc out.
It may very well be easier, but this is how I opted to do my engine swap. To go out the top the first thing you'll want to do is to disconnect the torque converter (I'm assuming an auto box) by removing the small plate under the sump and removing the bolts as you turn the crankshaft little by little. Then disconnect the several large bolts that hold the tranny to the block. You'll need to separate them a fair amount, so that they disengage, so I think that is one of the toughest parts because there really isn't much clearance. You'll probably have to remove the tranny mount under the battery and support the transmission as you allow it to slide aside.

Good Luck.
Take a whole bunch of pictures and post your results. It's very helpful for those that come after you and a way to give back some of your knowledge to the forum.
 

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Will be replacing the engine in my saab 95 turbo auto this weekend? you guys got any tip? Do a have to take the engine and box out hole or can a getaway with just the engine leaving the box in place? was think it could save me a few bob on auto box oil as some can bust your balls in the price of it...

cheers..
hi, wow , i`m removing the engine from the top , and it looks like it might be more difficult than i thought .
i have the engine seperated from the box, but i need to seperate them by about 1 more inch so i can lift the engine up and out . . and ideas on how to take engine out from top while leaving gearbox in ?
mark k
 

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hi, wow , i`m removing the engine from the top , and it looks like it might be more difficult than i thought .
i have the engine seperated from the box, but i need to seperate them by about 1 more inch so i can lift the engine up and out . . and ideas on how to take engine out from top while leaving gearbox in ?
mark k
Yeah, you've definitely hit the most challenging part I would imagine... I would say you need to disconnect the transmission mount under the battery, so that the tranny can shift to the left and give clearance for the engine. Has anyone consulted the Hanes manual or anything like that? I'd say from the bottom is a whole lot easier, but this is from someone who hasn't pulled an engine out the top, so take it for what it's worth.
Good luck.
 

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I have not removed one from the top, but I did install one that way recently.
(bought a car with no engine)
I think it would have been easier to leave the trans attached to the engine.
An engine tilter made the job much easier, as well as removing the crank pulley to gain another inch or so of space, the crank side needs to be tilted up and away from the transmission, so you will need to get the trans moved as far away from the engine as possible.
 

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Yeah, you've definitely hit the most challenging part I would imagine... I would say you need to disconnect the transmission mount under the battery, so that the tranny can shift to the left and give clearance for the engine. Has anyone consulted the Hanes manual or anything like that? I'd say from the bottom is a whole lot easier, but this is from someone who hasn't pulled an engine out the top, so take it for what it's worth.
Good luck.
hi, got it out last nite from the top !! some idiot forgot to unbolt the front rhs driveshaft tube thingy that was still bolted to the motor...............

i busted a bellhousing bolt , , luckily theres about a inch sticking out so i`ll get that out with some vice grips and heat..... i hope...

undid the top trans mount , and removed the thick aluminium bracket.and undid the trans mount at front of car, ...
i just twisted and bent and broke the thin wire of the alternator , ( not the main out put one..) it just wasnt worth the hassel reachin down there to undo it.
i`ll just make up a small lead , with a plug on the end , bolt that onto alternator while the engines out , then when i put engine back in i`ll just plug it together,.

overall fairly fiddly to take out from the top , but i`d say easier and quicker from top , than disconnecting subframe , drive shafts etc......

i`ll post some pics later ..
mark k
 

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I have not removed one from the top, but I did install one that way recently.
(bought a car with no engine)
I think it would have been easier to leave the trans attached to the engine.
An engine tilter made the job much easier, as well as removing the crank pulley to gain another inch or so of space, the crank side needs to be tilted up and away from the transmission, so you will need to get the trans moved as far away from the engine as possible.
Great... I look forward to the pics!
 

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From the\ top You should take both engine and trans out together you need to take off the front pulley and tilt it way back ( being careful of the Throttle body)
 

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hi, got it out last nite from the top !! some idiot forgot to unbolt the front rhs driveshaft tube thingy that was still bolted to the motor...............

i busted a bellhousing bolt , , luckily theres about a inch sticking out so i`ll get that out with some vice grips and heat..... i hope...

undid the top trans mount , and removed the thick aluminium bracket.and undid the trans mount at front of car, ...
i just twisted and bent and broke the thin wire of the alternator , ( not the main out put one..) it just wasnt worth the hassel reachin down there to undo it.
i`ll just make up a small lead , with a plug on the end , bolt that onto alternator while the engines out , then when i put engine back in i`ll just plug it together,.

overall fairly fiddly to take out from the top , but i`d say easier and quicker from top , than disconnecting subframe , drive shafts etc......

i`ll post some pics later ..
mark k
hi, here are some pics . of me engine removal and dissasemble,
mark k
 

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hi, got it out last nite from the top !! some idiot forgot to unbolt the front rhs driveshaft tube thingy that was still bolted to the motor...............

i busted a bellhousing bolt , , luckily theres about a inch sticking out so i`ll get that out with some vice grips and heat..... i hope...

undid the top trans mount , and removed the thick aluminium bracket.and undid the trans mount at front of car, ...
i just twisted and bent and broke the thin wire of the alternator , ( not the main out put one..) it just wasnt worth the hassel reachin down there to undo it.
i`ll just make up a small lead , with a plug on the end , bolt that onto alternator while the engines out , then when i put engine back in i`ll just plug it together,.

overall fairly fiddly to take out from the top , but i`d say easier and quicker from top , than disconnecting subframe , drive shafts etc......

i`ll post some pics later ..
mark k
hi, more pics.
mark k
 

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I love the sparkplug as cork! That's pretty clever.
haha yeah... that is clever. In my experience I found it easier just to unbolt the power steering pump bend it and zip tie it aside. That way you won't lose a bunch of fluid.
 
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