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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tearing apart my spare engine and I have a couple of questions:
1. I seem to be missing one of the locating pins for the head gasket, I have one towards the transmission end but nothing at the timing end, I have checked the head and nothing there either, is it possible that I only had one? Do I need to worry about it if I'm careful when putting the head back on?
2. I am rebuilding it minus the balance chain, I'm blanking off the tensioner but can I do without all the guides? It looks like the upper guide might help hold the timing chain guides in place (I know I need the spacer where the moving guide would go).
3. Any tips for installing the two main seals? I've heard of using cardboard to assist with the rear main seal, but I think that is with the backing plate staying in place, I will be removing it - so just lube and tap it in from the back?
 

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1: you will need both for proper alignment. all mine have always had 2.

2: yes you can pull all the balance guides. i made a spacer with washers then tacked all the washers together with a welder. you need to leave the shafts and the idler sprocket (due to oil passages) and the drive sprocket on the crank (due to spacing).

3: correct. make sure the crank doesn't have a lip from the old seal wearing on it. then when installing the rear plate use a small flat screw driver to guide the seal back on the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I wonder where it went, I will double check the garage floor in case it feel out of the head when I was moving it to the back of the garage. I'm not entirely sure the HG wasn't done on this car before, the upper end looked really clean for 170K and the head has "OK" or "QC" in blue paint on it above the timing cover and the HG was in great shape and came off leaving almost no residue.
I plan on just dremeling off the guide part and saving the round piece that goes over pin as a guide.
Thank, I will double check the crank, tho this engine looks pretty wear free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good news is I found the locating guide on the garage floor.
How clean does the block need to be (the head will be going to a machine shop so I'm not worried about that), I think it looks pretty good, didn't want to get to anal about it and I understand I'm not looking for a mirror finish.


 

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Great pics
Flatness is everything
a mirror finish is nice, but not necessary..
I use a razor blade, others use the wonderful scotch brite disks..
Its easy to be "anal".:cheesy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
One other question: I removed my balance change and the idler gear for it seems to have some in/out play (about 1-1.5mm). I checked the EPC and I don't appear to missing any washers (there is only one between the gear and bolt, pictured in yellow). I've tightened the bolt (blue) as much as possible, but the gear (red) still has a little in/out play on the shaft (green). I know it's oiled so when maybe once its floating on the oil it takes up the slack (though it seems like a lot of play), I just don't wont to have too big of a gap and end up with a source of lost oil pressure.
 

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I'd think that, somewhere in the WIS, there should be a section of wear limits.
Maybe "29" is worn at its flange.
 

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One other question: I removed my balance change and the idler gear for it seems to have some in/out play (about 1-1.5mm). I checked the EPC and I don't appear to missing any washers (there is only one between the gear and bolt, pictured in yellow). I've tightened the bolt (blue) as much as possible, but the gear (red) still has a little in/out play on the shaft (green). I know it's oiled so when maybe once its floating on the oil it takes up the slack (though it seems like a lot of play), I just don't wont to have too big of a gap and end up with a source of lost oil pressure.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/267/captureemo.jpg/
I've never felt one of these when it was brand new, but the 3 motors I've had apart all had what felt like a TON of in/out play as you are describing, and none of the 3 have any oil pressure problems at all.

I think you are correct in assuming that oil pressure takes up the slack.
 

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Actually, let me revise my statement. Seeing as that is the idler pulley, I think it was likely designed with that "slop" to allow it to self align with the balance shaft cogs. This would reduce side loading on the chain, as well as on the idler pulley bearing, giving longer life for both parts.

As long as the bearing feels snug in the radial direction I would not worry about it.
 
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