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Discussion Starter #1
From a stop, if I accelerate on the harder side in my '02 9-3, it feels like the engine/transmission may be slightly shifting forwards/backwards. Otherwise, there are no vibrations or other issues. I'm thinking it sounds like the rear mount. I tried to check it out, but it's pretty hard to determine the condition of it.

Anything else to check, such as loose bolts? I heard someone mention sub-frame bolts?

Thanks!
 

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Open the hood, put your foot on the brake, put the car in gear, and gently roll into the throttle. Watch engine movement through the gap.... if it moves more than a cm or so, it's engine mounts.

But, you're going to need to get under there and inspect them to know which one, so it might be best to just do that first. The trans mount is easily visible from underneath, the right engine mount will probably require removing the serpentine belt splash shield. The rear one is difficult to judge... so if the other two look good and THEN the engine squirms around, you know it's the rear. :)
 

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+1 Jvan.
I was going to suggest looking at the bushes associated with the anti-roll bar etc, but as you dont get the movement when turning etc it, it points to engine/trans mounts as far as I can tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, guys. That's a good idea about looking through the open hood gap.

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The rear is often oil covered when it goes bad. But, if your engine has been leaking, that won't be conclusive.
 

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'96 SAAB NG900 SE (R.I.P.), '99 SAAB 9-3
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Accelerate and release the throttle, if your engine makes a massive clunk it's the rear mount :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There's definitely a clunk, and I observed forward rotation of the engine through the open hood gap. Any tricks for replacing the rear mount? And what's the consensus on the aftermarket mounts?

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DON'T do aftermarket mounts unless absolutely necessary.... they are simply not good. The rear mount is super easy to change.... just remove the three nuts, jack up the engine at the oil pan, remove old insert new. It's maybe 20 minutes of work. BE SURE you carefully inspect the other two - usually the rear mount fails in response to one or both of the others failing.
 

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So Jvan - based on your comments above - do you recommend any particular brand to get / also to avoid. I understand the quality of Pro-parts is often an issue. Can you still buy original SAAB mounts? - or do you suggest going to places like GS? I thought GS mounts were mainly designed for harder and potential track use. If you wanted a normal top quality mount > based on your experience - what do you suggest?
 

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Rear mount was Corteco originally and you can still get them for about $100 on Ebay. The transmission mount was still available from Saab (an ORIO vendor) too. The other (passenger side) mount is unfortunately only available aftermarket from Pro-parts last I checked and even that's spotty.
 

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Thank Jvan & Bob. I know 1 of my mounts was replaced recently based on history - so its good to know the fine print before jumping in. My others seem ok, but I know its something I will need to address in the future like everyone else.
Once again sage advice from the both of you.
Thanks.
 

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FYI - Your right side mount (the Pro-parts replaceable one, 4283750) is likely worn out too. You can check that one by looking in the hole in the mount - there's an allen bolt in there that attaches the mount to the engine. If the allen opening isn't mostly centered, then it needs replacement. Another check on that one is if the engine is resting on the subframe on that side. There should be about a half inch gap there between the two.

If you have a manual tranny car, replacing the mounts makes a big difference in how it shifts.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm thinking replacing all three makes the most sense.

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Discussion Starter #16
Can anyone confirm that the rear mount is the same on both auto and manual trans models? I see different part numbers, but eEuroparts says they are one and the same.
Corteco # 601780 = Saab OE part # 5064449
 

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They are actually two different part numbers - 5064449 for an automatic and 5064431 for a manual - but I am pretty sure they are physically interchangeable. I've always suspected the difference is in tuning since the needs of a manual are different than those of an automatic. What "messing it up" means in practice.... ?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah, that's what I found puzzling. They certainly look the same. Hopefully eEuroparts is correct, and they are interchangeable.
 

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They are physically the same. However, the automatic mount is softer to cushion the additional vibration of the automatic at idle.

You can find aftermarket mounts for the automatic now. You might need to order from the UK or Germany. The odd thing I've seen is that some aftermarket automatic mounts are also saying they are compatible with the diesel mount... and the diesel mount was known to be the hardest of all the mounts (often used as an upgrade when increasing engine HP). So, whether those aftermarket mounts are harder or softer than the manual, I can't say.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Rockauto has a few options including a Beck Arnley and DEA/Marmon. Anyone know if those are decent?

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