Engine Flush
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Joined
·
11,030 Posts
Pour the engine flush in prior to the oil change, Forté flush is recommended if you can get it. Put it into an engine at working temperature and let it idle for 15-20 mins or take a short spin around the block. Drain the oil via the plug on the pan, put a new plug/washer on the pan, a Saab OE filter on and fill with some lovely fully synthetic oil (0W-30 or 0W-40), and away you go. 
flush
HMm.. Thx.. but I thought the 0w-30 and 0w-40 are for winter only???????...I am living here in NYC and right now is summer but still pretty cool in the 60 Ferenheit..I just picked up 10w-30 Mobil 1 fully synethic so is this o.k for it to run the engine??..thx
Kermits 9-5 said:Pour the engine flush in prior to the oil change, Forté flush is recommended if you can get it. Put it into an engine at working temperature and let it idle for 15-20 mins or take a short spin around the block. Drain the oil via the plug on the pan, put a new plug/washer on the pan, a Saab OE filter on and fill with some lovely fully synthetic oil (0W-30 or 0W-40), and away you go.
HMm.. Thx.. but I thought the 0w-30 and 0w-40 are for winter only???????...I am living here in NYC and right now is summer but still pretty cool in the 60 Ferenheit..I just picked up 10w-30 Mobil 1 fully synethic so is this o.k for it to run the engine??..thx
Joined
·
259 Posts
Read the can/bottle, and instructions should be there.
If you want a quick flush, the best I know of are made by AMSOIL and BG.
The others are not as effective. Generally, you warm up the engine, then add the can of flush and fast idle for 15-20 minutes. Then drain.
If you have more time, check out Auto-Rx. Takes a couple thousand miles to work, but have seen many good reports on it.
Far as oil viscosity is concerned, the first numberX is related to resistance to flow at cold temperatures (or how fast it will pump up), while the second number indicates the viscosity range at 210 degrees F.
If you want a quick flush, the best I know of are made by AMSOIL and BG.
The others are not as effective. Generally, you warm up the engine, then add the can of flush and fast idle for 15-20 minutes. Then drain.
If you have more time, check out Auto-Rx. Takes a couple thousand miles to work, but have seen many good reports on it.
Far as oil viscosity is concerned, the first numberX is related to resistance to flow at cold temperatures (or how fast it will pump up), while the second number indicates the viscosity range at 210 degrees F.
If your engine is not in real need of an engine oil flush, by using a full synthetic oil like mobil, its will clean your engine but over a longer period compared to a flush provided that you keep your oil changes regular like alot of the guys here do (every 5-6K miles).
flush
ok thx all, i do change my oil every 3k to 4k and new sparks also.. but as i realized saab 9-5 seem to have some much problems in term of DI or THrottle here and there to cause the engine start up or the RPM jerking up and down..my understanding is that so many people have similar problem afte the car reach a 50k miles ..i mean, beside tune up and other upgrade most of us would either have start up problem or car die when stop on a red light ..and i do have both problem sometime i have to crank the car it would take about 3 or more second for it start up during every morning .. and sometime on the red light my RPM would feel like it will die out and i just change all of the crank sensor , fuel filter, air filters, and oil change with new spark as well but still the same as before... no luck...after reading many other posting at the board it seem to me no one knows how all these problem arise except to change the cheaper parts first and do the basic to see if the problem still arise and many do hope it would not be the Throttle or DI but sometime i wonder if this is the two major problem after all we spend so much other little monies trying to figure out the bigger problem and that little monies do add up in term if we just know what cause it on the first place instead of guessing game....now i wanted 9-5 but do not know how long i can hold with all little problem here and there..good luck too all...
ok thx all, i do change my oil every 3k to 4k and new sparks also.. but as i realized saab 9-5 seem to have some much problems in term of DI or THrottle here and there to cause the engine start up or the RPM jerking up and down..my understanding is that so many people have similar problem afte the car reach a 50k miles ..i mean, beside tune up and other upgrade most of us would either have start up problem or car die when stop on a red light ..and i do have both problem sometime i have to crank the car it would take about 3 or more second for it start up during every morning .. and sometime on the red light my RPM would feel like it will die out and i just change all of the crank sensor , fuel filter, air filters, and oil change with new spark as well but still the same as before... no luck...after reading many other posting at the board it seem to me no one knows how all these problem arise except to change the cheaper parts first and do the basic to see if the problem still arise and many do hope it would not be the Throttle or DI but sometime i wonder if this is the two major problem after all we spend so much other little monies trying to figure out the bigger problem and that little monies do add up in term if we just know what cause it on the first place instead of guessing game....now i wanted 9-5 but do not know how long i can hold with all little problem here and there..good luck too all...
Joined
·
11,030 Posts
Saab4me, remember people only hit this board to get help with problems. The ones driving around with reliable cars don't visit cos they don't need to. For what its worth i've had my 9-5 for 2.5 yrs now and never needed more than a bulb or service. This idling problem seems to be a fuel issue, have you noticed there's not one post about it from anywhere other than the US? As for DI failures, i've had 1 replacement (prior to my ownership) at 67k, the car now has 105k on her and is running sweet. You would expect to replace rotor cap, rotor arm, ignition leads, even the whole distributor occassionaly, so why not expect to replace the DI cassette occasionaly? Throttle bodies do get gunked up, (they do on all cars), but total failures are rare.
For what its worth i've had my 9-5 for 2.5 yrs now and never needed more than a bulb or service. This idling problem seems to be a fuel issue, have you noticed there's not one post about it from anywhere other than the US? As for DI failures, i've had 1 replacement (prior to my ownership) at 67k, the car now has 105k on her and is running sweet. You would expect to replace rotor cap, rotor arm, ignition leads, even the whole distributor occassionaly, so why not expect to replace the DI cassette occasionaly? Throttle bodies do get gunked up, (they do on all cars), but total failures are rare.
Joined
·
259 Posts
If you haven't been using a gas additive, it would probably be worth a try.
I' partial to AMSOIL PI, used at 6 oz per 10 gal in a full tank (maintenance after first treatment is 1 oz per 10 gal as you fill it up).
If I couldn't, or wouldn't, get AMSOIL PI, I'd probably opt for BG 44K--whole can in tankful of gas.
Other good ones are Redline SI and Techron (be sure to get the most powerful--there are several strenghs available.
I' partial to AMSOIL PI, used at 6 oz per 10 gal in a full tank (maintenance after first treatment is 1 oz per 10 gal as you fill it up).
If I couldn't, or wouldn't, get AMSOIL PI, I'd probably opt for BG 44K--whole can in tankful of gas.
Other good ones are Redline SI and Techron (be sure to get the most powerful--there are several strenghs available.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Join the discussion
