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Discussion Starter #1
my 90 t16s engine wont go when it is hot. i am begining to think this is due to the egine been flooded. it runs fine then turn the ignition off and it wont start. when i turn the key the fuel pump turns on,followed by a crackling from the injector wiring. the ecu is also going clickety click and the engine check light flashes and the engine bay and dip stick smell of petrol :cry:
 

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Normally I would say check the NTC sensor at this point, but you've already replaced that here . You also say you have creamy 'mayo' substance round the dipstick in this thread and Si quite rightly states that this is symptomatic of head gasket failure. A failing head gasket will cause stalling, idling problems, starting problems, overheating problems, and of course mayo on the dipstick - everything that you have been experiencing. Do a search using the keywords head gasket to see if there's any other symptoms to confirm it.

The way to tell for sure is to get a compression test done and get a mechanic to test for the presence of hydrocarbons in the expansion tank. But it sounds to me a lot like you don't have 5 unrelated minor issues, you've just got the one major one.
 

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I agree. A lot of times in a HG failure your coolant system over pressurizes making a restart almost impossible. Try relieving some pressure from the system and I bet it will start up. Only thing is, that if you have a HG failure what you really want to do is fix it right away. It is not recommended to drive it like this as you could easily cause permanent and expensive damage to major engine components.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
mayotragic

ohh dear sounds like a big job has broken out. hmmmm how big a job is it for a keen novice,seems like a good learning opportunity. do i need any special tools/equipment?:confused:
 

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Get a compression test done first to confirm. Lots of stuff on head gaskets in the archives, and Lloyd on here just did one for the first time as well. Book time for an experienced mechanic is about 10 hours apparently. There's a thread running on UK Saabs about it at the moment here.
 

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Its a doable job, but do your research. It helps to have a more experienced friend on hand. Do a search of these forums as well I believe there is a decent tech write up on it. You will want to send the head out for inspection/cleaning/surfacing. The only real special tool is a torque wrench, which are not expensive and some torx head sockets for the headbolts. You want new headbolts (inexpensive) as well as the regular head gasket kit that includes the exhaust, intake and other smaller gaskets.

You may choose to pay a decent indie Saab mechanic to do it for you in the end as it will be done quickly and without fault.
 

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There's some patchy advice in that thread. A better guide is here:
http://townsendimports.com/Web/engine_folder/headgasket90016v.htm

Make sure you pay particular attention to that link with regard to cam timing.

Make sure you get the proper E16 Torx socket for the head bolts. Just buy the proper tool for the job instead of pissing around with 12-point hex sockets :roll:

You'll need an angle gauge for the final stage of the head bolt torquing procedure.

You can clean out the block bolt holes with carb cleaner and a rag.

Drain the entire cooling system (including block) will ensure the cylinder don't get coolant and sludge dumped in them when you remove the head.

Search on posts by myself for loads more info on this job.

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