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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
89 Saab 900 Base

Seemingly all at once, my electrical went haywire:
-Dashboard shows brights are on, can't turn it off
-Lights don't work
-Right turn signal doesn't work
-Wipers don't work (wiper spray does)
-Right blinker doesn't work
-Only 3rd brake light works (well, the others were just really dim)
EDIT!-Forgot to add horn doesn't work either

After much digging through forums, I did the following:
-New headlamps, all 6 bulbs in front side lights replaced, side marker bulbs replaced
-Checked grounds in rear lights.
-Checked fuses with electric meter
-Cleaned (I think) all grounds

Not recommended in the forums, but I had had enough, I tapped into the ground feeding the right tail light and grounded it to the ground from the left taillight. This gave me blinkers, albeit the right one blinks fast and the left blinks normal. I imagine this might be because there is too much current, but I was having a hard time cleaning the contacts in the left taillight and imagine that is what needs to be done.

PROBLEM THAT BROUGHT ME HERE:
I still cannot get headlights to work or windshield wipers.

If I turn the lights on while the blinker is going, the blink gets very slow, like one change per second (ie two seconds for a full on/off cycle).

Based on what I have read it seems like it is either a ground somewhere that I have not found, or the headlight relay. I did not find a lot of good info on the latter, but I took it apart and visually checked it for anything obvious and didn't see anything. I uploaded pictures of it in case someone smarter than me sees something.

Lastly, I am a novice, so please use small words in your reply! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Check for loose terminals on cables too.
The items you mention do not share a ground. They do share power sources. A bad connection on either side acts the same.
Jim,
So I checked the battery terminal voltage and it was 12.8. I then checked from positive to end of battery cable at frame and it was 12.8. I then checked from positive to various parts of the frame and got 12.8 where I had good contact points. I took her for a drive today and issues persist (obviously!). For one, the blinkers work, except when I use the brakes, they then shut off until i lift up on brake.

When I got home, I decided to attempt to lift up the fuse panel to see if there was a mouse nest or anything underneath. It only came up a bit, enough to verify there were no mouse nests, but then all of a sudden I heard a buzzing. My son was sitting in the car and said the tachometer started moving (car was off, key was out of ignition). The buzzing was coming from the Ignition Lock relay, which you had me look at yesterday. If that was bad, could it cause all the issues I am having? I imagine I need to replace it if it buzzes by itself. I actually heard it once before, last year when I was checking a fuse and heard a brief buzz but couldn't locate where it came from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When I lifted the fuse box last time it was pretty tight and only came up about an inch or two, allowing about one half inch of view into the guts. All the wires looked brand new, but I follow your logic. Are there any tricks to get the fuse box up further? Is there anything I need to be really careful of when doing it?
 

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It's common for terminals to get pushed out of their sockets in the fuse/relay panel. They can make intermittent contact. Lift the panel further, it can take a little polling. Look for wires pushed out under relay sockets.
The brake lights may be a separate problem. Fix you power problem first. A heavy gauge jumper wire can bypass the ignition lock relay for testing purposes.
 
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