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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I'm new here, having just bought my first saab; a red 99T 2dr. Shes gorgeous, all i had hoped for (been after one for ages). However I am already having issues.... and hoped someone could give me pointers.

I was cleaning under the bonnet yesterday, doing a bit of gentle degreasing with a toothbrush, and now there seems to be no fuel feed; the pump isnt working, i cant hear it whining indicating no power, and the four fuel lines from the mixture unit arent giving anything. I havent done any work any where else on the car other than under the bonnet, and i did spend some time in and around the fuseboard with my little brush (it was gunked up to the eyes). I have checked the wires into and out of the fuel pump fuse (think its no 8 or something like) and it seems ok; the terminal connectors are a bit old and grey but are reasonable enough. In my cleanings, i also removed the large 12v black block 'thing' (dont actually know what these are called) that is also connected with the fuel pump, just in front of the fuseboard. I cleaned gently underneath and put it back, no problems. But now we have no fuel feed. I reckon the problem must be localised to the area i am talking about as thats all i have faffed with.

can anyone make any suggestions? ta in advance

jim
 

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The biggest problem with a 99T (or any other 99 I guess) is the fuse box. I have completely rewired mine, cutting off the old spade terminals and replacing them with new ones. I also cleaned up the connections on the box itself. It has cured most of my electrical gremlins but I still have no indicators :evil:


I would suggest that you do the same. My previous 99T also required this!

Just as a check, run a wire from the +ve terminal on the battery to the fuel pump terminal. It should spring into life, proving the pump has not failed. On my car, several times (before the fuse box rewire) just doing this cured the problem and after putting the jumper wire across, starting the car, and then disconnecting the wire, the car ran fine for several months before needing to do it again.

Good luck!
 

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the big black block thing that you removed should be the fuel pump relay. This triggers the pump going on and off, so you could have disturbed it when you took it out.

Check that when you put it back in that the spades on the bottom actually went into the metal connectors that are in the top of the fuse box (recessed in the plastic). Sometimes on the old fuse boxes when you push the relay in it just pushes the connector out through the bottom of the fuse box rather than connecting it to the relay terminal!

If it is in properly, you can test the fuel pump relay as follows:

Note that the fuel pump relay is a special 5 pin relay. If you go and find a normal 4 pin one (you could temporarily unplug the one for the radiator fan or horn i think if you liked!) you can plug this in instead of the funny fuel pump one (obviously one bit wont connect but that doesnt matter). When a normal relay is in, the fuel pump will run continuously while the ignition is turned on (in the first position - it is not necessary to start the car).

If you put this other relay in, and your fuel pump still doesnt work then the problem lies in the wiring somewhere. If this does make it work then your relay is faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i just came back to my pc after the magical saab fairies fixed it; that is to say, i did as recommended, lifted the whole fuseboard piece up, checked the spade connectors, cleaned them, tightened them a bit with some pliers, looked at it a bit more, hum, ha, made a cup of tea; and then suddenly it works. Basically in taking it apart and putting it back together again its fixed. Bizarre. I expect the future to hold many more adventures such as this.

I can only say thank you very much to both Tomarse and TfatC for the help outs; outstanding. I'm going outside to stand and stare at it again for a bit now, and think very hard about my restoration plans. First trick is a seat base repair kit which came today, complete with vague photocopied instructions. Aiiee.

jim (btw i will post some shots of my car as soon as i have access to camera).
 

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Every electrical problem I've had so far has been traced to the fuse box. Get used to it :lol: Welcome aboard, and we are already looking forward to seeing some pics!
 

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Congrats on your new red 99T - look forward to seeing pictures.

To try and keep this balanced, I have never had a problem with the electrics other than a faulty alternator. As mentioned try and keep it clean and treated to a squirt of WD40 and your 'problems' should disappear.

Keep the faith,

Fellow 99T owner :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
GOD DAMN IT!


guess what just happened to me. picking the kids up from school in it, the temperature needle goes skywards, and it boils. Electrical problems, now hitting the cooling fan.... that fuse board i would say definitely has problems. I gave it half an hour, did a roadside replacement on the connectors at the edge of the rad just in case, then limped it home (1.5 miles downhill luckily) staring at the temp needle as it slowly crawled back up again. Got it home just as it edged the red; turned it off, got out, and guess what came on.

the fan.

....
 

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It'll get there! Radiator fans are allways picky!. you can wire a switch up easily enough to operate it manually! - its a very easy job and well worth it. Have a search through the forum as i definately wrote a fairly long post saying how within the last couple of months!

All my 99's have needed a 'special move', which has involved wiggling your hand under the fuse box and squeezing it in the right place!

On my GL, you dont get any indicators or sidelights until you do this, and on the 99T I get no rev counter or dashboard electrics till i do it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
...further to my earlier issues....

this issue seems to have developed now, into a slightly more complex twofold one.

a) I am finding that the fan runs fine (previously assumed a connection to it in the fuseboard was dodgy); if i run the wires together that normally go into the sender at the left edge of the radiator. If they are plugged into the rad the fan never starts up and the engine gets hot el rapido. So i am guessing the sender is knackered or the thermostat is. Will need to test thermostat in usual fashion; or doesn anyone have any other idea?

b) the second issue seems to be a connected but potentially more complex. Even when the fan is running (in the jury rigged fashion above), the engine is still getting hot. Which suggests to me either the radiator is entirely shot, or the water isnt getting round the block - the pump may be on its way. i need to repeat this second problem more consistently to prove its actually an issue and isnt connected with my fan issues earlier (i.e. lots of different symptoms displaying at the same time sending me round the bend); if i can get it to happen again and again then i will assume, as i say, radiator or pump. If its pump, its bad. What i want to happen is that this doesnt actually happen again and i just sold myself a dummy earlier.

jim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok, i think the water pump is ok; in fact i am sure it is. On the other problem, the fan issue, i took the thermostat out, and checked it. At first it didnt seem to be opening or closing. I moved it manually and tried again, and it started moving when hot and cold. I noted that when fully closed there is still a bit of daylight visible, maybe 1/2 a mm; and at fully open (i boiled it practically) it seems to be about 6-8mm open at best. I wonder how this compares to others?

anyway, when i put it back in the car, everything seems to be working fine, so i assume it was sticking and needed freeing. I still dont understand how the thermostat and the temperature switch on the radiator interact, but obviously they are now doing so. I hope this problem is now sorted, and i havent missed anything etc. I took her for a blast afterwards to check everything out,and had a great time.

jim
 

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There is no interaction between the fan temperature switch and the thermostat, only coincidence...

The t-stat is a service item, a 30 year old antique could have used a half dozen of them - easily..

The thermo switch on the radiator controls the fan.Quite a task to keep the coolant clean after all these years...

With my old '69 99 the fan did not run for a long time - thank goodness for very little "city" driving...
Saab, and many others placed the battery in the wrong place in consideration of electrical contacts and components. A vented cover would have helped a lot, I think..The old 95/96 models were worse.

We used a di-electric paste on the fuses to deter corrosion.

The new GM900 are better, but lets wait for 30 years and see..
 
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