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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2003 Saab 9-5 Aero

My car has been drawing 2.8 amps when the car is shut off. I unplugged every relay and fuse (under the hood, under the dash, and on the side of the dash) in the car one by one, and none of them caused the draw to drop down to below 1.

When I was testing my car with the multimeter, I had to drive the car a little and when I came back, the draw dropped down to .09 amps. However that was a one time deal and the draw is back up to 2.8.

What could be this issue? Is there a short to ground in the wiring somewhere? Any suggestions? I haven't noticed anything malfunctioning, but one thing I have noticed is that the radio antenna reception isn't that great. Could that be related? My key cylinder does pop up when I take out the key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nope. Nothing seems to be malfunction in the car and I didn't notice any changes when this draw started happening.
 

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Does your ignition cylinder always pop up when you remove the key?
 

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My 2003 Aero kept slowly draining the battery and it was the Harmon Kardom amp. The telltale sign for this is a buzzing from the speakers when the key is out. It's very, very faint.

I replaced the amp and everything was good again. The amp is located on the passenger side kick panel. Easy job to replace.

There's been other posts about this on this forum. Search if you want to research it more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I haven't noticed any buzzing, but I'll listen carefully next time I'm in the car. Wouldn't the amp be connected through a fuse though?

I am 90% sure the key cylinder pops up every time I take out the key, but I will pay closer attention to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've been keeping an eye on the key cylinder and it does pop up every time I take out the key.

Anyone else have ideas?
 

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Do you have any aftermarket items installed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Motorola Bluetooth, but that's connected to the OnStar circuit.

The left headlight is an aftermarket HID kit, but that's connected to the factory headlight harness and does not have any extra wires running to the battery or anywhere else. However, there is a relay in that corner that's also connected for the headlight. I think it's for the relay 666 high beam/flash to pass mod. I opened the engine bay fuse panel and I did not see the wires to relay 666 modded, but my halogens also come on when I turn on my high beams.
 

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I would look at those connections as the cause of your problem.
Motorola Bluetooth, but that's connected to the OnStar circuit.

The left headlight is an aftermarket HID kit, but that's connected to the factory headlight harness and does not have any extra wires running to the battery or anywhere else. However, there is a relay in that corner that's also connected for the headlight. I think it's for the relay 666 high beam/flash to pass mod. I opened the engine bay fuse panel and I did not see the wires to relay 666 modded, but my halogens also come on when I turn on my high beams.
 

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Bad grounds? Measure the voltage between the grounds and the actual earth ground. Should be negligible.

Also could be faulty voltage regulator. Remove it to see (kind of a PITA). If removing the regulator reduces/eliminates the current draw, clean the contacts and surrounding area of anything that could create and electrical bridge and reinsert to see if that fixes. If not, cheap fix, should be less than $50.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
^ How much of a PITA is it to get access to the alternator on a 9-5? I'm not looking forward to that.

Also I figured I would check the positive cables this time and see which one is drawing power. I believe there's one big wire (starter?) and three or four smaller red wires leading to the positive battery terminal. It's not much, but I figure it's one small step closer to trying to track down this draw.
 

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I just bought the car in question and I think the high amp draw came from the door being open. I clamped the door switch and after the dome light went off, the amps went way down.
Still, the draw is still pretty high. Yesterday it was about 460mA, seems like maxi fuses 2 and 3 were the main culprits.
After removing the fuse that the aftermarket Bluetooth system was connected to, the draw went from 190mA to ~100, and after waiting 25 minutes as specified in WIS, it's now down to 10ma (.01 on the 10amp scale) so I think it's all good now.
 

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I just bought the car in question and I think the high amp draw came from the door being open. I clamped the door switch and after the dome light went off, the amps went way down.
Still, the draw is still pretty high. Yesterday it was about 460mA, seems like maxi fuses 2 and 3 were the main culprits.
After removing the fuse that the aftermarket Bluetooth system was connected to, the draw went from 190mA to ~100, and after waiting 25 minutes as specified in WIS, it's now down to 10ma (.01 on the 10amp scale) so I think it's all good now.
Hmmm.... He needed us to help with that? That would have been the first thing I'd have disconnected! Ay yi yi.
 

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Hmmm.... He needed us to help with that? That would have been the first thing I'd have disconnected! Ay yi yi.
I think his biggest mistake was not clamping the door switch, and when I was first working on the car, I did seem to have a significant ~400ma draw, but not since then (maybe I didn't allow enough time for the electronics to go to sleep). I'm not sure if the BT kit's 100ma draw is excessive or not, but I'm planning to remove it anyway, as I have no use for it and don't like the way it looks. At least it works well.

I checked it this morning and it was fine, but I put a battery charger on just to top it off. At 3pm the battery was reading 12.48 volts; since then, I ran the engine for about 30 seconds and used the interior lights/radio a few times and it's now down to 12.34 volts. Given that the battery hasn't had a chance to get charged by the alternator, I think that's acceptable. Can't drive the car yet as I have no license plates at the moment.
 

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Somtimes I wonder"
View attachment 30404





Hmmm.... He needed us to help with that? That would have been the first thing I'd have disconnected! Ay yi yi.
I just bought the car in question and I think the high amp draw came from the door being open. I clamped the door switch and after the dome light went off, the amps went way down.
Still, the draw is still pretty high. Yesterday it was about 460mA, seems like maxi fuses 2 and 3 were the main culprits.
After removing the fuse that the aftermarket Bluetooth system was connected to, the draw went from 190mA to ~100, and after waiting 25 minutes as specified in WIS, it's now down to 10ma (.01 on the 10amp scale) so I think it's all good now.
Do you have any aftermarket items installed?
I would look at those connections as the cause of your problem.
 

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I think I'm done bumping this thread, but I checked the voltage again this morning and it was up to 12.45 again. Car has just been sitting the whole time, so let's call this resolved. The OP was very honest and upfront about the car and its issues - so don't be mean. :D

If anyone else reading this thread has an idea where to get a blank button for the dash (it's the one under the ESP button where the Onstar module is supposed to be) that would be appreciated as I'm going to need one.
 

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I wouldn't worry about bumping the Thread; it now belongs to you.

Not trying to be mean; but I did look at this car and passed on it when it had ECU and other issues; but when you try and help some folks and they don't take the time to read; what’s the point?

The PO is young and didn't have a clue about the car and preferred a honda; so I know you got a great price. I didn't need another project.

I think I'm done bumping this thread,
The OP was very honest and upfront about the car and its issues - so don't be mean. :D

If anyone else reading this thread has an idea where to get a blank button for the dash (it's the one under the ESP button where the Onstar module is supposed to be) that would be appreciated as I'm going to need one.
I probably could've helped you there, but I'm sure someone else can"
 

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I wouldn't worry about bumping the Thread; it now belongs to you.

Not trying to be mean; but I did look at this car and passed on it when it had ECU and other issues; but when you try and help some folks and they don't take the time to read; what’s the point?

The PO is young and didn't have a clue about the car and preferred a honda; so I know you got a great price. I didn't need another project.



I probably could've helped you there, but I'm sure someone else can"
I hope I didn't offend you! I shouldn't have written "anyone else" I guess I was just tired in the morning. I appreciate your help in this thread and in the other one I posted...I'll just start a new thread and let this one disappear into the abyss. :)
 
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