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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Morning all,

I drive a 2000 9-3. Yesterday while on the highway I started getting a jerking motion as I would accelerate like power would come and go. Right before I broke down I lost my rear light and the blinkers stopped working. As I pulled into my parking space the car stalled out. Currently the car will start but will not stay running.

Yesterday while on the highway I started getting a jerking motion as I would accelerate like power would come and go. Right before I broke down I lost my rear light and the blinkers stopped working. As I pulled into my parking space the car stalled out. Currently the car will start but will not stay running. Battery voltage is good.

Now I am getting other strange electrical problems. When I tap the brakes the interior bell starts ringing as if the keys were in the ignition and the lights on the dash blink when I do this. Also the front lights come on when I put the key in the ignition... but I have the lights manually turned off.

When I ran the codes I got P1312, P1334, and P0340 in that order. My only thought at this time is to replace the DIC and CPS because of this. However I’m concerned this doesn’t address the electrical problem.

Currently I am also driving without the ABS module as that failed about a month ago. I haven’t sent it out to be rebuilt yet. I’m wondering if this is related.

I am absolutely dumbfounded. Thoughts?
 

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Current: 2000 9-3 Aero 5d, Family: 85 900i 3dr.
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Welcome to Saab Central.
First-principles first - are all your fuses and relays now working - and do your lights .. including rear fog lights all work?

Looking at those codes via the WIS the brief issues are:
P1312 - Check the wiring.
P1334 - Check the wiring.
P0340 - Spark Plugs, DIC then potentially your CPS sensor. There is also a reference to the air-fuel mixture also.

I suggest the solution could be new spark plugs and a real DIC. There are lots of reports where that has fixed issues like this.
You might need a new CPS as well.
As for the ABS - that you will need to address.

Front lights on - that could be DRL, and DRL programming settings. You can pull a fuse to check this.

I suggest you download the WIS to help for future reference. Here is the online link. The download link is in the forums here.
Also - Do you have a Manual or Auto - and whats the mileage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to Saab Central.
First-principles first - are all your fuses and relays now working - and do your lights .. including rear fog lights all work?

Looking at those codes via the WIS the brief issues are:
P1312 - Check the wiring.
P1334 - Check the wiring.
P0340 - Spark Plugs, DIC then potentially your CPS sensor. There is also a reference to the air-fuel mixture also.

I suggest the solution could be new spark plugs and a real DIC. There are lots of reports where that has fixed issues like this.
You might need a new CPS as well.
As for the ABS - that you will need to address.

Front lights on - that could be DRL, and DRL programming settings. You can pull a fuse to check this.

I suggest you download the WIS to help for future reference. Here is the online link. The download link is in the forums here.
Also - Do you have a Manual or Auto - and whats the mileage?
No, not all of my lights work. I had one rear tail light out and one front headlight out. Not sure about rear fog lights...

Not sure how to go about checking all the relays. But at first glance behind the panel on the drivers side door non of the fuses looked bad. I did have an issue before with my hazards coming on when I turned off the car so I had to pull the full for the turn signals any time I turned off the car. It magically went away a couple months ago. Probably related
 

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Front Headlight out could be a globe, fuse or orange lamp relay. - Do you get a headlight warning on the SID when you use the High beam?
There is a fuse box in the engine compartment as well. - The Orange relay is here, as well as some fuses that relate to the lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Front Headlight out could be a globe, fuse or orange lamp relay. - Do you get a headlight warning on the SID when you use the High beam?
There is a fuse box in the engine compartment as well. - The Orange relay is here, as well as some fuses that relate to the lights.
Front Headlight out could be a globe, fuse or orange lamp relay. - Do you get a headlight warning on the SID when you use the High beam?
There is a fuse box in the engine compartment as well. - The Orange relay is here, as well as some fuses that relate to the lights.
I have not tried the high beams but yes I do get an SID warning about my front headlight and brake light failure. I’m wondering if there’s a relay issue or maybe something is short circuiting and grounding out to cause all these issues.
 

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SAAB 900S, 1997, 2L,manual.
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How would you begin troubleshooting that problem? I checked the grounding strap cables and the wire harnesses for the DIC. No exposes wires though.
I do not know this car's electrical system very well. However, I have experience that diffuse and "unexplained" electrical problems most often occur with poor grounding. I would first look at the connections between engine and bodywork. I would start measuring the voltage between the negative battery pole and the bodywork, with all electrical consumers connected. This voltage should not exceed a few tenth of a volt.
The fact that the error started small and then became larger may suggest that this is the explanation.
A fault in a component often gives a sudden death.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I do not know this car's electrical system very well. However, I have experience that diffuse and "unexplained" electrical problems most often occur with poor grounding. I would first look at the connections between engine and bodywork. I would start measuring the voltage between the negative battery pole and the bodywork, with all electrical consumers connected. This voltage should not exceed a few tenth of a volt.
The fact that the error started small and then became larger may suggest that this is the explanation.
A fault in a component often gives a sudden death.
Thank you, this is very helpful. I’ll let you know what I find out.
 

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1) I think you need fresh spark plugs and/or a DIC. You can try regapping them to .9mm. If the codes continue, replace, and if that still doesn't do it, new FACTORY DIC. Esaabparts.com is a quality vendor. If you can get NGK out of RockAuto, that should also be factory.

2) The ABS is almost definitely unrelated. Odds are a bad module, but checking with a Tech II is the only way to know unless you just want to throw parts at it.

3) I'm betting on a bad ground. Most popular bad ones are the small one off the battery to the chassis; the one from the end of the tranny to the chassis (look under the left front corner behind the wheel well); and in the trunk on the left side near in the general area of the taillights.

I can't see a relationship between your problems... but that often does translate to a funky ground with these cars. I'm assuming your battery is over 12 volts and has 13.5 or more across the terminals when running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I replaced the DIC and... nothing. I’m really upset that wasn’t it. I’m beginning to suspect fuel pump or fuel pump relay now because of the surging on the highway. Idk at this point.
 

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Replacing the DIC isn't going to solve all your issues - but it's a good start.
Hopefully, you replaced the spark plugs as well.
Bob is correct above- Incorrectly gapped plugs will cause fouling, and I suspect is adding to your issues.
OG9-3 are very sensitive to spark plugs and DIC. The forum is full of comments where a new DIC solved all types of gremlins.
It is best practice to replace the spark plugs at the same time you replace the DIC.

Headlight issues. Your SID warning I suspect is indicating your orange lamp relay. Check the fuses before checking the relay. That's assuming of course your globes are fine.
If you wiggle the orange relay you might see a change.

Fuel issues - Your codes indicate a possible air-fuel mix problem. So yes, it could be your fuel pump.
The easier solution is to replace your air filter, check your MAF, and potentially replace your fuel filter.

CPS - The codes also suggest this might need looking at. Replace your CPS with a Bosch one - Others reportedly cause issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Replacing the DIC isn't going to solve all your issues - but it's a good start.
Hopefully, you replaced the spark plugs as well.
Bob is correct above- Incorrectly gapped plugs will cause fouling, and I suspect is adding to your issues.
OG9-3 are very sensitive to spark plugs and DIC. The forum is full of comments where a new DIC solved all types of gremlins.
It is best practice to replace the spark plugs at the same time you replace the DIC.

Headlight issues. Your SID warning I suspect is indicating your orange lamp relay. Check the fuses before checking the relay. That's assuming of course your globes are fine.
If you wiggle the orange relay you might see a change.

Fuel issues - Your codes indicate a possible air-fuel mix problem. So yes, it could be your fuel pump.
The easier solution is to replace your air filter, check your MAF, and potentially replace your fuel filter.

CPS - The codes also suggest this might need looking at. Replace your CPS with a Bosch one - Others reportedly cause issues.
Okay so an update. I replaced the DIC and no luck obviously. I did not replace the spark plugs because I checked them and they were not fouled and the gap was fine.
Charged the battery, voltage was good. Took off the intake and sprayed starter fluid in and tried to start the car to make sure it wasn’t the fuel pump. Would not start. Checked the small valve with a pin around the injectors and it did not seem like the fuel was pressurized though while the car was in the on position.
Tried pulling the lamp relay because of the lights staying on and no luck. I’m pretty confused. Seems like whatever electrical problem is affecting the ignition system and the lights as well. I will review the electrical diagrams today but since my car is broken down at work I haven’t had much of a chance to mess around.
I know you insist on replacing the plugs and I plan on doing that but I’m not convinced that’s the core of the issue.
 

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I apologize if I missed it but have you verified that you're getting spark at all? That would be a pretty damn good reason for starter fluid not to work. FWIW I wouldn't spray starter fluid anywhere but into the TB itself to be sure it's getting to it's intended location.

If you don't fully diagnose 1 system (air, fuel, spark, & compression) before moving onto the next, you'll always be chasing your tail.
 

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We may need a little more info in order to get a better handle on whats going on, first how many miles are on the car and where are you located. grounds in the rust belt states are more of a problem than say Texas or Cali, if your spraying starter fluid and it's not popping to start then the CPS has failed, the cps signals the fuel pump to operate when you turn it over. How has the key been working recently ,does it spring back from the start position? does it turn hard or fail to start when turned sometimes?
 
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We may need a little more info in order to get a better handle on whats going on, first how many miles are on the car and where are you located. grounds in the rust belt states are more of a problem than say Texas or Cali, if your spraying starter fluid and it's not popping to start then the CPS has failed, the cps signals the fuel pump to operate when you turn it over. How has the key been working recently ,does it spring back from the start position? does it turn hard or fail to start when turned sometimes?
I think that's backwards... if he sprays starting fluid in there and it doesn't cough, he has an electrical issue. The CPS will stop the fuel, but starting fluid will bypass that very short term. No cough, no spark.

@akassman - what's the gap on those plugs? It looks huge from here. Should be .9mm. 1.1mm would be the max... but we'd like it tighter.

You can rig the DIC with ALL FOUR sparks plugs, ground ALL FOUR spark plugs with a LARGE copper wire clamped to each and attached to the engine block, and have someone turn the key. The plugs should fire when it cranks. Don't do it with less than all four installed. Also, you could have gas vapors under there... I think the OSHA thing to do would be to plug the plug holes to prevent a fire if you try it.
 
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