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I had the module rebuilt and added it no problem. I used the tech 2 to check modules for response, ECM, TCM, ESP/TCS and a couple of others, only ones with errors were the UEC and REC. The Tech2 says only the ECM and UEC are missing on bus. I think I did try a request info on the ECM, can't remember what happened, but I don't believe it displayed vin, I'll check again today. I have done so much checking of things on this car, that I having trouble keeping track of the results. I'm not sure what you mean about remove anything downstream and the pin numbers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I would isolate I-bus from anything down stream of the UEC. You can you this my removing two wires from the UEC connectors. Pins B2 and F50
Then try to add the UEC and run the bus test.

283378
 

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Do you mean pull them out of the block connectors underneath the UEC? Seems a bit scary, I am not sure what they might touch after I reinstalled the UEC, I suppose I could tape them up. I might try removing b2 on the REC just to see if anything changes, although that might be a bad idea as it should pull the whole bus down, I think, but if the REC is the problem I might learn something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Yes, I would remove the pin from the connector. If you can remove B2, that would isolate downstream modules. I think F50 is for a parking heater-not sure if you have that option or not. If so, you might want to remove F50.
This is how I would go at it.

with the correct tool, removing the pins isn’t a big deal.
 

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That's what I was thinking by removing B2, but it would remove all the modules on the bus except the ones connected at 342 pin B3, because B2 comes back to the CIM. I could try and cut power to the REC by removing the maxi fuses one at time? I don't have the pin removal tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
By removing B3, you would only have DLC-CIM-MIU-UEC on the I-bus (if you don’t have the heater). That is what you want, three modules. Then you would see if the UEC is no longer missing. If so, the problem is downstream. If still missing, the problem is upstream or with the ECM.

I have used this tool, hasn’t let me down yet.

Pin removal tool
 

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If still missing the problem could also be the MIU. Unplugging it will not disconnect the UEC, FWIW.
 

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PROGRESS!
I checked fuses 16 and 26 they showed a slight resistance, took them out and cleaned them, result, UEC back on bus! Rechecked all modules for voltage = all good except ECM, checked all modules for errors = all good except ECM , no voltage and missing from bus. Label says 55563993, service number 55564080, date of manufacture 23 Oct 2006, so I would say it's original. This is progress, now I need reconfirm that the module is getting power, +30 at B36, +15 at B3, and at B1 B17 from main relay. If all good, then I think I need to replace the ECM and I now know which one to buy. As for the cost, it might work out to be reasonable, I have found a source that tells me they can give me a re-manufactured one for around $600 cdn. Around $300 in the US. They said I just need to give them the part number of the old one and they will send me one just plug and play. I am assuming I just need to add it with the Tech2, after divorcing the old one? I think I'm winning!
 

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Oh crap. did it again. Scrubbed it so as not to mislead the unwary.

Ya B3 & B36 for ECU power. Main relay output on B24, should go low with ignition on if you don't see voltage at B1/B17.
 

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Did I say how much I love this car and hate it at the same time? So I decided I would buy a new ECM, but following on from that here's the dilemma, the car was first registered in April of 2006. I didn't check the date of manufacture but it has to be before that, meaning that the correct ECM should be 55560009, the one in the car is 55563993, service code 55564080. Tthe date of manufacture on the ECM is Oct 2006. this means that the ECM was made after the car and could not be the original. The previous owner of 5 years did not replace it, so it was prior to that and no info available. Here's the dilemma, did someone manage to change the configuration of the 55563993 to that of the 55560009 or could they have replaced the hardware to match the new ECM? I suppose it is also possible that the whole engine was replaced, although I don't see any evidence to suggests that kind of work being carried out, and nothing in the service records.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
I would start by looking at the CAM shaft sensors. That will tell you what year engine you got.
I would try to locate a used ECM that matches I one you have in the car. Cheaper and easier.
 

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SAAB 9³ SS Aero AT MY06 Stage 3
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Here's the dilemma, did someone manage to change the configuration of the 55563993 to that of the 55560009 or could they have replaced the hardware to match the new ECM?
It’s possible to run 07+ ECM on -07 car and vice versa, but you need to edit software or flash ECM with proper software with TrionicCanFlasher.


Отправлено с моего iPhone используя Tapatalk
 

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No progress? I am still convinced that it's a ground problem, no one seems to able to tell me definitively where or how the ECM is grounded, I have even consulted with a auto electrician who has all the diagrams, and he doesn't know either, suffice to say he thinks it might be the the ECM itself, where it's bolted to engine block. If it's in the casing of the ECM bolted to engine block, then that's a accident looking for somewhere to happen. The problem with that theory, is that the ECM is not bolted to engine block, it's bolted to a painted metal bracket that appears to be moisture cure paint or powder coated, and it's bolted to engine block, so where is the metal to metal contact for a ground? The two wires on either side of the ECM, one black and one black and white, could be grounds for the casing, they are certainly bolted to it, but no where in any diagram does it say how these are grounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Why don't you remove the ECM and start ole school troubleshooting? If you are convinced it is grounding, start tracing the black/white wire.
The smaller black wire is a shield for one of the wire looms.

If this helps you, on eBay is a used wiring harness for the V6. Pretty good pictures, it might help you in figuring out where the black/white wire goes.
here

Have you used an OHM meter to see if the case is grounded? I needed to clean up the ECM bracket to get a good ground (ECU to Engine block to frame).
I would also physical check the battery to engine grounding to frame.

Above is my 2-cent.

I give you kudos for hanging in there and not giving up.
 

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Ok that might help, you say you had to clean up the ECM bracket to get a good ground? I'm a paint guy by profession, (40+ years in automotive refinishing), and when I look at the bracket that holds the ECM, I see a coating that is hard, it is either powder coating , stove enamel, or hardened moisture cure, either way, it is unlikely that a current could get through that coating. No metal is exposed anywhere on this bracket so where it bolts to engine block, it doesn't seem to be a ground? In fact, it would appear from the choice of coating, that they intentionally used a coating, that would ensure no contact with the engine block. I'll try the wiring harness thing, to see if it makes it any clearer.
Ground wires are supposed to be easy to indentify, they have a letter, for example E for engine, or P for power, L for lighting, and the number 31, following that convention, the black wire is not a ground, at least not one that is connected in any way to the engine or chassis grounds. Thanks
 

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Ground pins:
B25
A7
 

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Ground pins:
B25
A7
Thanks for the help, I've looked at these 2 wires, they appear to be ground out, not in. B25 runs from the ECM to the fuel level sensor and the Evap pressure sensor, but no where does that wire connect with the chassis or engine grounds, suggesting that these 2 sensors are relying on the ECM @ B25 for a ground, not providing one. A7 appears to be a ground signal wire for a few components like camshaft position sensors, but again does appear to be connected to any ground source in. In fact I have tried to trace every wire going into the ECM and none appear to be a ground source. If this was a 2.0 with the T8 this would simple, the grounds in are clearly marked, and easy to follow.
 
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