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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was reading the how to on the brake job for our cars, and it says we need E18 and E24 torx wrenches to do the front/rear brakes...however, when i go looking online, they have female torx sockets, but i've always known torx to be star-shaped male bits...what's the deal?
 

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That is correct there is torx and etorx bits. The caliper mount uses etorx. It also says that they are supposed to be torqued to 40ftlbs, but my experience is someone over torqued them. You need a good set of needle nose pliers to turn the pistons in on the rear, along with a c-clamp.
 

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what would the E24 used for? I did the rear brakes on my friends car and we used E18, but not E24. Also, the caliper carrior bolts should be torqued to 90 ft-lbs, and you need to re-apply blue lock-tite to the bolt. Those bolts HOLD the brakes onto the car, don't do it half-***

To properly retract the piston, rent the tool from autozone, its free, and will get the job done right
 

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For low to very low torque applications one can get away with using the wrong tool.

But this is NOT a good practice - the days of the grease monkey, monkey wrenches, and SAE sized antique tools is over.
Double check on the brake caliper screws torque...Overtightening and using the wrong tool is a problem, even with "professionals"...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
nevermind on the e24, that was my mistake... :)have any of you guys used an e18 wrench instead of a socket? looking at the two bolts, it seems like we can get either in there...just wondering if one seems better for this use.
 

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I looked at the WIS and the fronts are torqued to 155ft lbs and 96 for the rear. You definitely need a socket to keep the pressure uniform. I was looking at something else, which is why I spec'ed the wrong torque before. I ordered some good s&k ones from sears. It took about 5 days to get.
 

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Can anyone recommend specific E18 and E24 sockets for the brake job, preferably through Amazon? I have E18 and E24 impact sockets and am running into clearance issues.

What are you using to get the job done, i.e., which specific socket, extensions, and universal joint/flex extensions are you using to get the calipers off? I can get only so far before either the ratchet or the socket binds up against other parts due to the minimal clearance.\

I found this: Amazon.com: Blackhawk By Proto BW-1418T External Torx Double Box Ratcheting Wrench, E14 by E18: Home Improvement

. . . but based on the torque spec for the front brakes that wrench may as well be made by Hasbro. :-(

Then there is this, which looks perfect: Beta 95FTX E14 x E18 Double-Ended Straight Wrench, for Torx Head Screws: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

. . . but of course "Currently unavailable. We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock."
 

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You need Etorx 18 for the rear brake brackets and Etorx 20 for the front brackets. And they are tight, very tight. I use a breaker bar plus extension after heating the bolts with a paint burner in order to soften the Loctite. If you don't it's a hell of a job, if you do it's a piece of cake.
 

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You need Etorx 18 for the rear brake brackets and Etorx 20 for the front brackets. And they are tight, very tight. I use a breaker bar plus extension after heating the bolts with a paint burner in order to soften the Loctite. If you don't it's a hell of a job, if you do it's a piece of cake.
Which Specific sockets? I have sockets that will not fit once I get the bolts loosened, due to clearance issues, and I have tried to source different External Torx sockets locally but most people in the tool departments at sears, home depot, etc. are drooling morons who don't know a torx bolt from a sandwich. I'm surprised some of the people at those stores managed to potty train.

Okay, that's a little harsh but seriously my problem is not, not knowing what fits the bolt head, but finding tools that are slim enough to fit into the tight space - for example, once I break the top caliper bracket loose and turn it a couple of threads it is backing out, forcing the ratchet against the suspension. I cannot loosen it by hand because it is still too tight at that point to turn by hand, but it would turn fairly easily with the long handled ratchet, if only it weren't so bulky it binds against the suspension. Even with a universal joint and an extension I run into clearance problems, because the E18 socket I have is a half inch drive impact socket.

The problem is NOT, not being able to crack it loose. Leverage is my friend. The problem is clearance for the tools themselves.
 

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+1 on the Gearwrench set. It is well made and has worked great for me. Used on front and rear suspension but not specifically the bolts you are touching.
 

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I got mine from harbor freight. Never had an issue with them yet
 

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Which Specific sockets? I have sockets that will not fit once I get the bolts loosened, due to clearance issues, and I have tried to source different External Torx sockets locally but most people in the tool departments at sears, home depot, etc. are drooling morons who don't know a torx bolt from a sandwich. I'm surprised some of the people at those stores managed to potty train.

Okay, that's a little harsh but seriously my problem is not, not knowing what fits the bolt head, but finding tools that are slim enough to fit into the tight space - for example, once I break the top caliper bracket loose and turn it a couple of threads it is backing out, forcing the ratchet against the suspension. I cannot loosen it by hand because it is still too tight at that point to turn by hand, but it would turn fairly easily with the long handled ratchet, if only it weren't so bulky it binds against the suspension. Even with a universal joint and an extension I run into clearance problems, because the E18 socket I have is a half inch drive impact socket.

The problem is NOT, not being able to crack it loose. Leverage is my friend. The problem is clearance for the tools themselves.
I had that problem too. Luckily I have a set of Bluepoints (E18 to up beyond E24) and I used one of them to remove the bolts holding the part that was in the way so I could access the bottom and top bolt of the carrier bracket.
 

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Can't comment on the rears, but I used these on the front:

Amazon.com: GearWrench 80583 13 Piece 1/4-Inch, 3/8-Inch, 1/2-Inch Drive E Socket Set: Home Improvement



http://www.harborfreight.com/12-drive-18-breaker-bar-67932.html

No problems with clearance.

With the E18 on the breaker it is almost exactly 3" from the back of the breaker head to the tip of the socket. Maybe 3 1/16". It is 3 5/16" with the E20.

Hope that helps.
Thank you Diggs, that was very helpful! :) Ordering the Gearwrench set now, and will stop at Harbor Freight for the slim breaker bar Monday.
 

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Thank you Diggs, that was very helpful! :) Ordering the Gearwrench set now, and will stop at Harbor Freight for the slim breaker bar Monday.
If the ratcheting version is the same depth you might try that. It can be a PITA working in tight quarters with the non-ratcheting breaker. Can't comment on the durability of the ratcheting version though, so your call.
 

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Thank you Diggs, that was very helpful! :) Ordering the Gearwrench set now, and will stop at Harbor Freight for the slim breaker bar Monday.
Hi kimvette, I know this thread is very old, but it greatly relates to my situation. I am also having a major issue removing the top torx bolt on my stepson's 2007 9-3 saab 2.0T because of the lack of clearance. It turns out that I cannot get any socket on that thing because of the obstruction preventing me to do so. I was curious if you had any success in taking that thing off? I was thinking about purchasing the Beta 95FTX E14 x E18 Double-Ended Straight Wrench on Amazon, but I'm not sure if it will withstand the torque seeing I don't know the brand and the quality if that make. Thanks.
 
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