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searched but no results. there was a thread that mentioned this earlier on the perf/mod board but didn't want to jack.

i should do this on my car soon just to check it out and clean/gap the pickup screen as needed. everything looked fine on head re-torquing but that was nearly a year ago.

is this a DIY job??? i have access to a free lift on the base here, or i could do it in the driveway on jackstands if it's doable that way (clearance??). i'd rather do this myself than shell out for 4 hour$ of labor.

i think i will need a new gasket for the re-install, correct?
and how big should the holes be made??

i'm comfortable working on my car, and assuming the weather is nice, i'll have the whole weekend to do it so i don't care if it takes all 48 hours...

thanks for the input :)

Peter
 

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IMO, R & R'ing an oil pan is an 8 wrench hardness task(Haynes), so this will depend on a man's experience and mechanical aptitude..
In other words, not for the faint of heart ..., but, then, this a matter of opinion as well.

I searched and could not find anything either...then it is good that my head is not detatchable... lol lol....
This should be much easier on a lift, and with power tools.
The sub frame must be PARTIALLY removed, large levers and wood blocks are a must..

But, why are we doing this ?
I would do an oil pressure test..
 

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Four hours is b/s, it took a mechanic with a lift less than two (I watched). Allow extra time if you are inspecting the bearings, they took their time with that one.

I posted a description in the thread below (scroll to the end). That is how it was done by a mechanic with a lift. Judging by other posts, seems like a fairly common method. You do need a power tool, or lots of PB blaster and a 1/2 or 3/4 drive ratchet for the subframe bolts. (85 lb-ft front, 140 lb-ft center bolt on reassembly on the ng900, could be different on a 9-3) Sump bolts are only 16 lb-ft, over-torquing these and resulting leaks is a real risk if you are not careful.

Not having the right tool to get the O2 sensors out of the way could be a show-stopper if you use this method, but the subframe stays mostly in place.

A third hand can be helpful while removing the pan, to help with a pry bar, and to hold the exhaust out of the way. You need the right kind of flange sealant to put it back on. Gapping the screen can be a bad idea, depending on the condition of the engine, but opinions vary. Jak Stoll posted on punching bigger holes in the screen somewhere.

Good luck.

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51450
 

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I think i agree with the idea, but entirely sure. a saab indie of over 20 years told me to just take it out completely. it causes more problems than it helps. the idea is to keep burned up oil particles from going through the system. fact is that the oil filter is there to catch stuff, so why the screen. all it may do is catch some of those flakes and get clogged up. then what happens? well then there is little to no oil going through the engine because it can't get past the screen. so i say just take it out, unless you want to clean it every time you change your oil. bad design if you ask me. i am not claiming to know it all or even close, but it seems to make sense to me.

good luck
 

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Funny thing about the oil pump screen, I do not know about the other cars(American), but back in the 60s,70s the Volkswagen air cooled engines used easily cleanable screens, but no oil filter as such...

Can you imagine an oil change costing about $1.40 !!

Everyone, I believe, uses an oil screen, I would not remove nor alter it..
 
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