SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
First off, I tried searching in the forums for the symptoms I am having but I cannot tell if my problems are a strut mount, stanchion, or control arm bushing, and I'm hoping a pro can lead me to the correct one with my descriptions.

Also, I'd like to say I'm a first time Saab owner as of yesterday. I purchased a 1997 900 SE Turbo Convertible with 171k miles on it from the original owner. The owner kept it in his garage all the time and kept really good care of the car. It's running great and I'm very happy.

BUT I have these clunks or one clunk coming from the drivers side, I don't know if they are different or the same clunks, they sound very similar.

- It happens when I accelerate from a stop and then brake to begin slowing down, it can happen on braking or on accelerating, doesn't really matter, just as long as the weight of the car shifts from the front to the back, etc. The clunk is a lot louder when doing this.

- It happens when completely stopped and the car is running and I turn the wheel all the way to the right and all the way to the left over and over. The clunk happens in the exact same spot each time. The clunk is quieter when doing this.

- It happens when completely stopped and the car is off and I turn the wheel all the way tot he right and all the way to the left over and over. The clunk again happens in the exact same spots each time. The clunk is also quieter when doing this

- It happens when I drive over a speed bump. Probably related to the same one when I accelerate and brake. The clunk is louder on this.

I hope my symptoms point to one faulty bushing. Hope I don't have to replace something major also as I'm planning for a DIY job.

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,583 Posts
I was a pro, many years ago.
The rubber was a lot harder and more durable, and the cars did not last as long.
The speed bumps are useful.
Coast, engine OFF, next time and listen...this would only absolutely prove what you already know.

One man recently posted a pic of a damaged stanchion arm, this must have been making a horrendous racket, a blind and deaf man could have done this diagnosis..:cheesy:
Usually, its more difficult, a spring compressor is handy to have.
Its probably one of the soft rubber bushings in the suspension arms which do not last much past 100K or so.
Do check the engine mounts as well. The engine oil pan is very close(less than 10 mm) to the subframe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I was planning to replace the tie rod ends on both sides because they are cheap ($30/pc) and seem to be easy (two nuts and bolts per side), since it happens when I'm turning the steering wheel.

As for turning off the engine and coasting, I can ensure you that it would be quiet as driving noise isn't an issue, it doesn't clunk taking corners, the CV boots look very new btw.

Here are a couple pics.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
how does your right (passenger side) roll bar end link look? I had an identical sound when i bought my used 900 and i immediatley found the end link to be completely disconnected from the roll bar and stanchion arm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
how does your right (passenger side) roll bar end link look? I had an identical sound when i bought my used 900 and i immediatley found the end link to be completely disconnected from the roll bar and stanchion arm.
Sorry for taking a bit to reply.

Attached is images of my right side bushings, hope they're clear enough to get a good view. I must say that my tie rod end on that side looks like it has a huge rip in the rubber.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
I vote for strut mount when going over bumps and a bad engine or transmission mount when accelerating. The main problem on my 1999 9-3 was the strut mounts. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I vote for strut mount when going over bumps and a bad engine or transmission mount when accelerating. The main problem on my 1999 9-3 was the strut mounts. Good luck.
I've been driving it a bit more since my original post and would like to add and clarify some symptoms. When braking I can make the clunk happen when I just barely press on the brakes, which makes me wonder if it's a brake caliper.

Also, the clunking isn't very apparent when it's cooler out in the morning. It's more apparent when it's warmer. I have a manual so I tried accelerating then releasing the gas on a lower gear to make the car rock and shift the weight, when I do this I can't get the clunk to happen much, maybe 1 out of 5 times.

But it does happen all the time right when I press the brakes to slow down for say a stop sign. When taking off from the stop sign it clunks again.

So from my understanding, no one thinks the tie rod ends could be causing the clunking when turning the wheel? Maybe all my bushing are going out and I need to do the suspension upgrade?

Thanks all for your help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
I've been driving it a bit more since my original post and would like to add and clarify some symptoms. When braking I can make the clunk happen when I just barely press on the brakes, which makes me wonder if it's a brake caliper.

Also, the clunking isn't very apparent when it's cooler out in the morning. It's more apparent when it's warmer. I have a manual so I tried accelerating then releasing the gas on a lower gear to make the car rock and shift the weight, when I do this I can't get the clunk to happen much, maybe 1 out of 5 times.

But it does happen all the time right when I press the brakes to slow down for say a stop sign. When taking off from the stop sign it clunks again.

So from my understanding, no one thinks the tie rod ends could be causing the clunking when turning the wheel? Maybe all my bushing are going out and I need to do the suspension upgrade?

Thanks all for your help.
I have had all of your same symptoms in my 2001 Viggen (and continue to). I had a local mech take a looksee, and if his assessments are correct, the popping when going over speed bumps is most likely the suspensions mounts. If you replace these, be sure to use the highest quality part you can find...don't skimp out on a cheapie brand. I also had a cracked rear control arm bushing which he said was likely leading to clunking or popping noises when turning the steering wheel. Finally, the clunking form accelerating and braking was due to a faulty rear engine mount. So, unfortunately, that is potentially 3 separate issues. I am having the rear engine mount fixed, but am gonna leave the suspension mounts in as I just changed them a year ago, and it is mostly just an issue of the noise. The cracked rear control arm bushing I will leave until it is time to replace the entire control arm...again just matter of putting up with the noises.

BTW, if anyone has a suggestion for which rear engine mount to go with ?

Corteco :
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDetail.aspx?id=5064431

Saabusa:
http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=56_39&products_id=389

Hutchinson:
http://www.europartsdirect.com/epc-items.asp
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Just going to throw this out there, probably not relevant to your situation.

I had a "clunk" that for the life of me I couldn't figure out... very random and not really predictable.

Turned out to be the clamp connecting the cat to the intermediate pipe was hitting the sway bar intermittently... just something to look out for when you get front end noise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
the clunking form accelerating and braking was due to a faulty rear engine mount.http://www.europartsdirect.com/epc-items.asp
I was starting to think this could be the problem. Here is something that maybe could lead to that. Since I have a manual transmission I tend to keep my hand on the shifter while driving, and I've noticed that the shifter knob or should I say the shifter unit tends to move upon accelerating. It doesn't move much but when I accelerate I can feel the shifter unit tends to move with more torque applied to the engine. Could this be a symptom of a broken engine mount? Rear? How can I check?

If you replace these, be sure to use the highest quality part you can find...don't skimp out on a cheapie brand.
Could you recommend a non-cheapie brand?


just matter of putting up with the noises.
I know what you mean but I'm the type of person that doesn't like to hear these things, it bothers me to hear clunking, I'm a very sound aware driver, I need to know the normal sounds and if something sounds weird, I have to fix it.

Thank you all for your input, it's greatly appreciated. :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
the clunking form accelerating and braking was due to a faulty rear engine mount.
I was starting to think this could be the problem. Here is something that maybe could lead to that. Since I have a manual transmission I tend to keep my hand on the shifter while driving, and I've noticed that the shifter knob or should I say the shifter unit tends to move upon accelerating. It doesn't move much but when I accelerate I can feel the shifter unit tends to move with more torque applied to the engine. Could this be a symptom of a broken engine mount? Rear? How can I check?

If you replace these, be sure to use the highest quality part you can find...don't skimp out on a cheapie brand.
Could you recommend a non-cheapie brand?


just matter of putting up with the noises.
I know what you mean but I'm the type of person that doesn't like to hear these things, it bothers me to hear clunking, I'm a very sound aware driver, I need to know the normal sounds and if something sounds weird, I have to fix it.

Thank you all for your input, it's greatly appreciated. :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Any progress on this? It sounds VERY similar to problems I've been having on my Viggen. I've replaced all of my suspension bushings, the strut mounts, springs, dampers, and engine and tranny mounts with the exception of the rear engine mount.
For me it used to be on the passenger side, but I had one of the captured nuts for the subframe bolts come loose, and once it was fixed it went away temporarily, but the. Returned, and developed on the drivers side after a couple weeks. This all leads me to believe that the sound is happening because of the subframe bolts loosening. In a few hours i'll be jacking up my car and tightening them all to see if it fixes the problem. I'll report back then.

Update: The rearmost bolt (through the rear arm bushing) tightened up a bit, and also helped a bit, but it looks like the bushing is probably the main culprit.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top