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Discussion Starter #1
My project for the summer -- when wife and kids are back east -- is to replace and amplify the door speaker.
I think I will cut the underseat speaker wires leading to the door, run through a line converter and then back to the amp, and then solder the speaker out wires back onto the cut wires.

Questions:

* What 4ohm 5" speakers will fit in the door? Isn't there some special bolting and also limited headroom because of the window?

* Anyone have a favorite 2-channel amp that is small enough to fit under the seat next to the stock amp?

* Any known issues for placing two amps in the same area?

* Other issues?

I would rather do this than add a subwoofer: (I already have amped Infinity Kappa 6x9s)
1. I keep the trunk clear of clutter.
2. I get balanced bass through the car -- right now it is all back shelf as the stock speakers are so weak as to be audibly invisible when the 6x9s are thumping.
 

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finwake said:
* What 4ohm 5" speakers will fit in the door? Isn't there some special bolting and also limited headroom because of the window?
The door speakers are 6.5" speakers. There are four mounting holes in the speaker frame, and the hole-to-hole distance is 4.3".

It is very hard sometimes to get mounting diameter details on these speakers, as sizing is not universal. Some web sites may have accurate mounting specs. In general, you should consider speakers in the 6.25 to 6.75" range.

I would suggest a separate thread-- "Which speakers fit the hole in the door EXACTLY?"

I know the Image Dynamics CX62 fits exactly. And I know the Polk 6.5" speaker is too small.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, 6.5 inch... running into the weekend too fast.

I say go with what you know, and you know the Image Dynamics CX62, so that'll be where I start.

I am open to other suggestions as well from our fellow Saab Centralists...:)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also, do you have an amplifier recommendation? I suspect that this will make a big difference in properly driving the 6.5 inch to sufficient power.
 

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If I were to amp some speakers I would not go with the ID's. I have them in my doors and they sound great, but they have clearance issues and I would assume there are other good speakers out there that would fit much easier.
MB Quart, Focal, Eclipse, etc... are all good speakers.

As for the amp, I don't think there is an amp that is small enough to fit under the seat with proper ventilation. You might have to go back to the trunk for that one as well. How about a 4 channel amp instead of 2 2-channels? I would suggest Soundstream as I've had a few amps over the years and none of them sounded near as good as my old Reference 405.
 

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soundstream is real good...but also expensive unless you want to go all out...

i have a kenwood 75 rms x 2 channel amp...its a little bigger than the stock amp but not too much, im sure it can fit under the seat and its almost never hot (iirc). obviously its not a soundstream but it works fine for me and was damn cheap.

shouldn't have issues with two amps next to each other. look at nearly every comp audio car, they stack up like 10 amps next to each other. just make sure you try to keep power away from rca/speaker wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ctrlz said:
Whatever amps you use, just remember the stock amps distort at something ridiculous like 2% THD.
Do I read you correctly that reamping the speaker signal sent by any stock amps with quality aftermarket amps will significantly reduce distortion?

If so, this is good news and all the more encouragement to also amplify my dash tweeters to keep up with my back shelf prone (or alternately under-amplified) rear tweeters!
 

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finwake said:
Do I read you correctly that reamping the speaker signal sent by any stock amps with quality aftermarket amps will significantly reduce distortion?
No, the signal is already distorted. Your new amp will just add to it.

You can read this two ways:
1) Get an excellent amp so you add very little additional distortion.
2) Get an average amp, figuring what's another 0.5-1% on top of 2%.
 

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i emailed mostnet and they said they were not aware of any companies making aftermarket amps that can use the mostnet system...contacted pioneer and they said there was no demand for it. With all the newer cars having fiber optic and the better quality, cant they at least build a ****en converter =/
 

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The distortion that is produce by the oem amplifier is at rated power or maximum power. But when the amp is at at less then rated power it is probably alot less and for real world purpoese not audible. Proper level setting is the key to adding an after market amplifier. IE - if the volume is set at 50% minimal distortion is prersent. at 75% may be 1%. So you would want to set the volume at highest level with out audible distortion. Then set the amp accordingly.
 

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GJP said:
But when the amp is at at less then rated power it is probably a a lot less and for real world purpose not audible.
The "real world" of a moving car includes a lot of background noise. So you can live with considerably more distortion than in the home environment. Some people are audio purists in their cars though.

I find I max out the volume on the 9-3 pretty often. I'm using the power from the stock amps for everything but the 6x9's and my 12" sub. I have upgraded speakers all around, and the distortion doesn't strike me as noticeable, even though I know it's there.
 

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My thought for the front door speakers (7/150) is to use an active cross over to cut the frequency at 80hz. The 6.5 in the 7/150 are being asked to produce way to much and are easily over driven. Next I plan to use a single 10" or 12" firing through and sealed to the trunk pass-through. I will also probably use an audio control epicenter to add a better low end.
 

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GJP said:
My thought for the front door speakers (7/150) is to use an active cross over to cut the frequency at 80hz. The 6.5 in the 7/150 are being asked to produce way to much and are easily over driven.
Even in the 300/13 where they only get 90-250 Hz, the 6.5's play like the sloppy junk they are.
 

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I have not had the chance to listen to the 300/13 at high levels before. In the 150/7 if push at any real level they make a pop sound which usually means they are being over driven. Is that the problem in the 300/13. Maybe a higher crossover point - 120hz. JL audio makes some of the best 6.5 drivers I have heard, however, they only come as part of component system. You can get full spec on there web page.
 
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