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Discussion Starter #1
I am working on my 97 9000 the one that got wrecked and had a few electrical problems after the wreck, like the brake light switch and turn flasher for some reason went out after the wreck. What I am looking at now is the pictogram driver door is light when the door is closed and the auto door locks work, but when I bring the key back to center, the doors unlock themselves.
I posted something about this before. I pulled the door lock fuse to work the doors manually BUT even with the fuse out the little curtesy lights on the door had a minor glow--- like they were getting low voltage feed to them or a short or an incomplete loop, but when the door was closed and the key removed the curtesy lights looked like they went out. However, the new quality battery went dead after sitting for 3 weeks, so I think there is a voltage draw somewhere still.
I know we talked about the green micro switch and the magnets and how they are delicate, but I need a refresher. First, I am going to pull the door card off and unplug the door open lights for the pictogram and see what that does. I do not want to damage the locking system so is there something to be concerned about?
What I would like to happen is the auto door locks to work and I am not too concerned about the working of the pictogram.
On the 1993 9000 when the pictogram would not go out, I unplugged the wires like Chengny suggested and that fixed it. On 1997 the problem is different; the locks themselves are acting wrong by unlocking themselves when the key is in the neutral position. I do have the remote key also, but it acts the same as the key. Any suggestions?
 

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Refer to these wiring diagrams.

Switch 208D relationship to pictogram:


Switch 208D relationship to CLM & VSS:




The CLS is designed to disable the locking function if the CLM receives an input from switch 208D that the driver’s door (and only the driver's door) is ajar. This switch also grounds the driver's door lamp in the pictogram - and causes it to illuminate when it senses that the door is not fully closed. So you can see that central locking operation and the door ajar warning are both dependent on this switch.




Normally the CLM receives that input and then shoots a quick pulse of voltage out to the door lock motors - and they lock. But if the proximity switch -208D - in the latching mechanism is telling the CLM that the door isn't fully closed (again, this only refers to the driver's door - no other doors will disable the lock function if ajar), it will not send that locking pulse to the motors.

Also, the CLM reacts differently to this condition (driver's door ajar) - depending on which switch is used in an attempt to lock the doors:

If the driver's door is not completely closed and an attempt is made to use the central locking system from that (driver's) door or from the switch on the center console, it will not be possible to lock the doors.

If the driver's door is not completely closed, and an attempt is made to use the central locking system from the passenger's door, the control module will lock the doors, only to unlock them again shortly afterwards.


You could test whether the sensor (switch 208D) is the problem by pulling the door card and disconnecting the 2 pin plug. The switch is the blue rectangular block as shown below and the leads coming from the harness into the pigtail connector should be red and black:





If the pictogram light goes out, try locking the doors. If the light goes out and the locks operate...you have identified the problem. But, it might not be the switch itself, the magnet may not be moving. Be sure that the pin that drives the magnet arm up/down is properly inserted in the slot as indicated:

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Chengny, I am impressed-- your years with these cars is so helpful. The weather here should improve this weekend and stay good for a while and give me a chance to get the card off because we have had a record rain and it is hosser out there. My Saab fleet sits out because my old stuff is not sealed, ragtops and my shop needs to shuffled around to get something time consuming project going.
I went to the junkyard a while back to look at this 9000 and met a Saab enthusiast; he works on the 95 or 93 I forgot exactly which one. He was looking at the 9000, but only looking. It had the V6, but I should have taken the lower valance because these cars are getting rarer out here.

There was a newer Saab out there maybe 2004 that this guy was interested in and it had leather and looked great. Very minor body stuff and I think it had a 4 cylinder. This guy says he swaps engines in them or whatever and all his kids have one. Anyways, I might start looking at the newer stuff. I know it is GM but it looked good. Thanks Again Chengny I will keep you posted.
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The moisture barrier is different on the 97 9000 than I have seen. Anyone have any good ideas on how to open it up and reclose it?
 

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The moisture barrier is different on the 97 9000 than I have seen. Anyone have any good ideas on how to open it up and reclose it?
It's held down with a tacky caulk strip. Some of the tacky will remain and you can press it back down to install.

You will probably damage the moisture barrier a bit during removal. I just patch the damage with duct tape and move on...

You could use a double sided foam tape to install if you wanted to get fancy but then you're more likely to tear the barrier the next time you have to remove it...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That fixed the locks Chengny you’re the best, and yes I was able to tease the moister barrier lose and stick it back on, thanks again guys.
 

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Similar CLM problem...

My central lock system is acting wonky...

However I lock the car all the door locks lock and then almost immediately reopen. Key in the driver door/passenger door, or central console switch. All have the same problem.

My pictogram works indicating the driver door is open when it's actually open and closed when I close the driver door ie: the pictogram light goes out indicating to me the drivers door switch is working correctly.

I've verified the grounds at G6Grounding point, negative distribution terminal, in the main fuse box (22B) behind the glove box.G8Grounding point, dashboard, by the left-hand front loudspeaker socket.G14Grounding point, left-hand front seat member.
https://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=278842&highlight=central+lock

I'm a little unsure of the PRECISE location of 22B since the latter 9K's don't have glove boxes and the fuse panel got changed a bit but I imagine I'd have lots of electrical problems if this ground were bad...? I did pull the fuse and relay panel down to verify NO corrosion in any parts and general security of all the wiring there.

I disconnected the plug in the drivers door, no change
I disconnected the plug in the passenger door and no change.

And I've replaced the CLM under the dash with a known good one and have the same lock, immediate un-commanded un-lock symptom/problem.

The only other remotely connected thing is a week ago during a rain storm the saab's car alarm went off at 2am...:eek: I don't know if this was from wind or heroin addicts (yes, that's a thing here in Ohio...) looking for change...
At any rate the passenger side floor was quite wet from the sunroof drain backing up. But the fuse panel area was dry so I don't know.
Everything worked proper the next day when I tried shaking the car to set off the alarm (and couldn't...) The central locks effed up a few days later...

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey Banman you have always be a cool guy that likes to help.Chengny probably took many of those answers to his grave with him. Do you alsohave the remote key deal? I would try clearing the system at the door lock with the key byrebooting it with the key. I would have to dig the procedure out of my books,but it went something like 3 turns to left and each turn coming back to centerwith the key and then one turn to the right and then maybe unhooking thebattery after the first clear. Is the interior alarm light on in the cab or blinking?
 

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Chenguy bought an Alldata disc.. likely annoyed at it's cost.. referencing it at every opportunity was IMO his retribution.
Believe that one can still buy Alldata

Disconnecting the car battery for a few mins clears All manner of learned memory stuff.
Easy, zero cost experiment.
Might help.. or not.
 

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Hey Banman you have always be a cool guy that likes to help.Chengny probably took many of those answers to his grave with him. Do you alsohave the remote key deal? I would try clearing the system at the door lock with the key byrebooting it with the key. I would have to dig the procedure out of my books,but it went something like 3 turns to left and each turn coming back to centerwith the key and then one turn to the right and then maybe unhooking thebattery after the first clear. Is the interior alarm light on in the cab or blinking?
Please say you're joking about Chengny going to his grave!

Me cool and helpful -- Appreciate it!

I do have a couple fob's. They got intermittent moons ago... I could try a refresh with new fob batteries...

Can't answer about the alarm led as that gets turned back off as soon as the door locks get their un-commanded unlock signal. ...but this does have me wonder if it's something to do with the vss/alarm module effing up somehow...

I don't think there's such a thing as an "AllData disc". Last I checked, you paid an annual user fee to their online system. Totally worth it for a garage and if I added up all the time I've spent researching sh!t it's probably worth it to me as well -- I'll try not to think about that!

I've already tried resetting the vss defaults with my tech2. Cycling the locks with the tech2 gives the same results as using the door-key.

It's not a huge deal going back to manual locks (just leave the CLM disconnedted) but I get nervous when any bit of saab wiring gets unsolvable what that may lead to -- I 'fear' the saab wiring snowball... :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am not sure how a tech 2 works. I would suggest psychicallymoving the lock the way the book suggests because Saab has made thisinteresting connection with computers large and small and actual physicalmechanical movement. So, I guess I am saying, I would work the key manually becausethere has to be some kind of electrical connection in the lock that is mechanicaland related to a chip and connections will become flawed.
 

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My central lock system is acting wonky...

However I lock the car all the door locks lock and then almost immediately reopen. Key in the driver door/passenger door, or central console switch. All have the same problem.

My pictogram works indicating the driver door is open when it's actually open and closed when I close the driver door ie: the pictogram light goes out indicating to me the drivers door switch is working correctly.

I've verified the grounds at G6Grounding point, negative distribution terminal, in the main fuse box (22B) behind the glove box.G8Grounding point, dashboard, by the left-hand front loudspeaker socket.G14Grounding point, left-hand front seat member.
https://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=278842&highlight=central+lock

I'm a little unsure of the PRECISE location of 22B since the latter 9K's don't have glove boxes and the fuse panel got changed a bit but I imagine I'd have lots of electrical problems if this ground were bad...? I did pull the fuse and relay panel down to verify NO corrosion in any parts and general security of all the wiring there.

I disconnected the plug in the drivers door, no change
I disconnected the plug in the passenger door and no change.

And I've replaced the CLM under the dash with a known good one and have the same lock, immediate un-commanded un-lock symptom/problem.

The only other remotely connected thing is a week ago during a rain storm the saab's car alarm went off at 2am...:eek: I don't know if this was from wind or heroin addicts (yes, that's a thing here in Ohio...) looking for change...
At any rate the passenger side floor was quite wet from the sunroof drain backing up. But the fuse panel area was dry so I don't know.
Everything worked proper the next day when I tried shaking the car to set off the alarm (and couldn't...) The central locks effed up a few days later...

Thoughts?
Have you attempted or in past replaced the door lock actuator under the DS bolster? That fixes my lock issue ive had in past. Regarding your alarm, man I ain't going there. I have a non Saab car that was doing that and I just disconnected the siren. No one pays attention to that. Pretty sure the alarm "works" on my 1998 but I don't know how. hahaha. There's so many other problems with 9K's that it is lost in shuffle.
 

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Chenguy bought an Alldata disc.. likely annoyed at it's cost.. referencing it at every opportunity was IMO his retribution.
Believe that one can still buy Alldata

Disconnecting the car battery for a few mins clears All manner of learned memory stuff.
Easy, zero cost experiment.
Might help.. or not.
Long live Jerry. He takes time to point out things to people with curiosities for fun and for free. The advice is sound. Doesn't matter where it comes from.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was trying to pull Jerry out of retirement with my deathjoke and yes when I replaced the actuator it fixed my locks also.

 

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IMHO -- door lock actuators are the motors in the doors themselves...

The controller is located under the dash; and I quote myself...
"And I've replaced the CLM under the dash with a known good one and have the same lock, immediate un-commanded un-lock symptom/problem"

CLM = control lock module

I've since learned there may be two different sensors or wiring setups in the drivers door -- one for the pictogram and a separate one for the CLM -- this would mean while my pictogram works/indicates correctly my CLM may still "think" the door is ajar which could give these symptoms...
So bored with removing the door card on these things -- it's so fussy...

SecondSaab -- at least in all my researching of this lock thing I found an ol' thread describing how to bypass the alarm/VSS immobilizer should I ever have to...
 

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IMHO -- door lock actuators are the motors in the doors themselves...

The controller is located under the dash; and I quote myself...
"And I've replaced the CLM under the dash with a known good one and have the same lock, immediate un-commanded un-lock symptom/problem"

CLM = control lock module

SecondSaab -- at least in all my researching of this lock thing I found an ol' thread describing how to bypass the alarm/VSS immobilizer should I ever have to...
good thing I backed it up with description of where it was at! Next up watch out for other items described as "doo hickey" "thing a ma bobber" and "thingamdoodle"

I suppose this issue you're having, is just something I have to look forward to.
 

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good thing I backed it up with description of where it was at! Next up watch out for other items described as "doo hickey" "thing a ma bobber" and "thingamdoodle"

I suppose this issue you're having, is just something I have to look forward to.
I will hope not as every time you try a fix you get a couple seconds of elation as all the locks snap shut....... and then the deflation as they all snap back open all by themselves... :confused:

I'll get it figured out -- it's just not the priority of the dash gauge/cooling fan issue...

On the other, other hand -- let enough of these little aggravations add up and junking the car looks more practical...
 

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I will hope not as every time you try a fix you get a couple seconds of elation as all the locks snap shut....... and then the deflation as they all snap back open all by themselves... :confused:

I'll get it figured out -- it's just not the priority of the dash gauge/cooling fan issue...

On the other, other hand -- let enough of these little aggravations add up and junking the car looks more practical...
Pretty sketchy time for me with 9Ks. I just put them to the side for now. Too much of distraction. Don't have time to baby sit. If I didn't have so many irons in fire it would look different. I have 2 C900's in mid restore, and countless other cars to look after. Family first.
 

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BUMP...
Pulled the drivers side door card off today and disconnected the blue sensor/switch which defeated the "door open" symbol on the pictogram and allowed me to cycle the locks with the drivers door open.
BUT, as soon as all the locks lock, they all re-open.

I'm guessing at this point that it's a short in the CLM wiring causing the un-commanded unlock after locking...

But I'm very open to any useful suggestions -- there might even be craft beer involved for the person that leads me to a solution. (I've already thought of buying an after market controller and re-wiring the locks... hard parts done -- all the motors are already there!)

Cheers!
 
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