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12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a US 04 9-3 SS Auto. The rear driver side lock started acting up just after fixing the 4th window regulator on the flippin' car :evil: The lock will work but every time using the transmitter or when driving away but I can hear the lock trying to lock again as if it did not lock. Then I always get the error on the SID that says "lock system failure."

I have tried unplugging the connector at the door. Unhooked the battery. Replaced the lock (used) and today just installed the driver rear window switch/lock controller (new).

Of course you need a tech II to enable the controller. So I went to the local dealership and enabled the controller and the AUX cable I got. But even after all of those trials....The lock has the same problem. :eek:

I normally just don't throw parts at a problem but I don't have a good scope or a tech II to troubleshoot. I did the best with the tools I had. A wrench, screw driver, hammer, duct tape, multimeter, can o' beer (empty) and a lot of creativity! :lol:

But here is the part that would be of most interest to all of you. The EPA :x (notice i'm biting my tongue) Is forcing dealerships to provide firmware/programming updates to 3rd party mechs and enthusiasts like ourselves. See the SAE standard J2534. The problem is the programming equipment is not cost effective for weekend mechanics....close but not yet. During my research, I found an interesting website where you can look up the different updates for all GM vehicles. What an eye opener! I put my VIN in the site and went to the BCM and low and behold I believe I found my problem.

Per BCM programming history....
May 7, 2007 False alarm issues corrected, possibility for dealer to turn off ultrasonic when blockheater is active. Correction in Drive-away-locking to avoid multiple lock-requests.
Sep 1, 2003 The trunk is now possible to open while the Soft Top is moving or is in its upper state. Corrected function of LeadMeToCarLight.
May 20, 2003 Several bug fixes regarding anti pinch, locking and diagnostics.
Feb 18, 2003 Software fix for park heater problems.
Jan 13, 2003 Minor bug fixes.
Jan 3, 2000 ECU in boot mode.
Jan 2, 2000 ECU in boot mode.
Jan 1, 2000 ECU in boot mode.

I told the service guy at the dealership there was a BCM update that could fix the problem and wanted the update done with the AUX and Lock controller. Service said they would charge me 1 hour for the AUX and Lock controller. In addition the BCM update would be 2 hours of labor @ $135 per hour! I was ticked off because the tech II takes 10 minutes to enable the controller and AUX. I am being charged $135 when they still owe me 50 minutes. In that time the tech can hook up the car and update the BCM. It is not like the tech has to just sit at the screen and watch the bar go across while it is updating!!! :roll:

He would not budge and in the end I just did the AUX and lock without the update hoping that the part would solve the problem...but it did not. I am going to write a letter to the manager of the dealership to express my dissatisfaction and give them a chance to make good.

I hope this info is useful to the rest of you. If anybody has any other ideas I could try or access to a J2534 or Tech II in CA, NV or OR that wants to help me get this thing programmed I would appreciate it. :cheesy:

12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
BCM Update didn't work.

I was able to get access to a Bosch Flasher Pro J2534 Programmer.

I installed the latest drivers and firmware for the programmer.
I made certain the battery had excellent charge.
Paid the subscription fee of $55 to get access to the GM programming database for 2 days.
I updated the BCM, CDCF, ECM, ICM, RLDM, UEC successfully. Called it quits for now. Still need to update the DDM and PDM. Everything else had the latest update already.

I noticed already the car is different in many ways good and bad. I am just going to concentrate on the bad for now.

The lock issue does not seem to be better so far...seems to be the same.
Steering Wheel lock stopped working..but I think it may come back after a few drive cycles like usual.
The infotainment center is not displaying service percentage at all and the SID is giving an error ECU not programmed error. Also the CD and AUX no longer functions.
Honestly, I think the Infotainment Center just needs to be remarried to the car and everything will work again. The problem is you need a tech II for that....frustrating.
The point of these J2534 devices is so independent shops don't need a tech II but yet you do if you program a module that needs to be remarried to the car.
Lame...what is the point if owning a J2534 device then?
You might as well get the tech II.

By the way. It only took about 3 minutes to update the BCM not the 2 hours the jerk at the dealership told me. Heck the longest update out of all the modules took about 8 minutes tops.

I am still looking for ideas on how to fix the Drivers side rear locking problem,
Anyone close the Sacramento with a Tech II that can help? Or just the 32MB Saab PCMCIA card for Tech II.
I actually have access to a Tech II but do not have the SAAB PCMCIA card. I might have to break down and buy one.

12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
PITA! But closer.

Learned a lot today. ;ol;

I first want to say. Do not waste your time with a J2534 programmer for a newer Saab. Get a Tech 2 or equivalent. You need to add/marry the ECUs you programmed and that cannot be done with a J2534 programmer.

I purchased a 32MB Saab card with version 144 software on it (ebay).
Got TIS2008.2 on a Windows XP laptop with a security code type 1
Used the correct GM RS232 Ethernet cable (ebay), Ethernet to serial adapter (ebay), /w serial to USB adapter (got one at radio shack that worked good)
And of course the Tech 2 with CANdi module that I borrowed.

I was able to update all the ECUs in the car that had updates available. In total I updated the following...

Next you have to re-add/re-marry all of the ECUs. This is important because the updated firmware loads what I call a default or fail safe profile. When you add the ECU through the tech 2 the screen will give you options you need to select about your car. When done selecting the options, the ECU will properly add the chosen selections or adjustments offered.

I also learned that certain ECUs you cannot re-add without higher security access which I do not have. They are...

I believe all of the higher security modules are working in the car. But the locking logic is different than before and I cannot make any adjustments on any of those ECUs after they are added either. I do not know what I am missing because some adjustments can only be made through the adding process.

This brings me to another point. I was able to disable DRL using the newer 144 software and selecting USA (not ROW or some other country)
The option is controlled by the BCM, REC, and UEC. When you re-add/add any one of those ECUs one of the options is for the headlight switch position.
You cannot adjust the settings after the ECU has been added.
Set the switch setting to auto low beams ONLY on Pos 2. Make certain this matches for all three ECUs and it will work. The down side is the front fog lights will not function. I have not played around with this much but these are my initial findings.

At this point, I would like to get type 2 or 3 security access. Might bite the bullet and subscribe through the Saab Tisweb website. They offer hourly Tech 2 programming which the main GM Tisweb website does not.
I may need a locksmith number to get that access but I am not certain.
Could use some help with getting that access. Would appreciate any ideas.

In case you read the whole thing and are curious :cheesy:... I so far have not been able to fix my original problem. But the Tech 2 was able to give me codes that I believe will help me narrow down the problem.

DDM B1595 06 <-----|I wondered why the mirror memory did not work
DDM B1585 06 <-|
RLDM B3817 05 <---This is the original problem hopefully a pin is out of place
UEC B2585 04 <-----|
UEC B3867 04 <-| I hope both parking light bulbs are out.

Found the codes in the WIS and have some direction on what to look for.
When I have time and have some progress. I will update again.

1 Posts
Good work!

I have the exact same problem. Add to that the driver seat heater. I read some other forums and others had the same problem - rear driverside lock and driver seat heat failure.
I'm trying to get over a Tech 2 to fix it myself.
Please let me know if you are successful.

12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·

Turns out the problem with the lock itself. I was just unlucky and purchased a used lock off of Ebay with the exact same problem as mine. I am really ticked off at that seller! He knew it the part had a problem. :evil:
The time I spent....grrrr...but I had a great learning experience! ;ol;

The error...
RLDM B3817 05
Helped me narrow down the problem on the lock. The problem circuit is on pin 1 and 7 of the lock connector. There is a resistor on the circuit that helps the BCM determine if the door is in the locked or unlocked position.
I did some basic checks with a multimeter to verify power is getting to the circuit. In my case, the resistor on the 1-7 pin circuit must have been bad.

I was able to get the higher security access on the tech 2. I was missing the hardware security dongle. Everything is programmed and adjusted perfectly now.

I was able to adjust the fog lights to come on with DRL off.
There is a setting to allow the fog lights to be selected on switch position 1 & 2. I was also able to set the comfort close and open.
Also the column lock starting working again in its own as I guessed.

Regarding the other codes...
UEC B2585 04
UEC B3867 04
The 5W parking lights were burned out and needed replacement.

DDM B1595 06
DDM B1585 06
Code means the driver side mirror is not able to store the up/down and left/right memory in order to use the driver side seat memory buttons.
I discovered the driver side mirror was not the original and did not have memory. The previous owner was cheap :) I purchased a replacement mirror from the local junkyard with memory and swapped the color part. Now the memory buttons work and my wife and I no longer argue about the seat being in the wrong position :roll:

The car is perfect now with one exception! I just had yet another window regulator fail!!!! this is number 5! I am trying to rebuild this one myself using bicycle break cables. The tracks are smooth and clear of obstacles.

Bujin: I did not have the heater problem like you did. First get an electrical diagram of the door lock and RLDM and of the Driver Seat heater through Alldatadiy or WIS. I would unbolt the rear driver side lock. Unclip the door handle rod from the lock. Loosen the plastic clips for the cables attached to the lock. Pull the lock from the top towards the opening in the door. Unhook the electric connector from the lock. Make certain the RLDM is still connected to the door even though the door panel is off. Check the voltages on pin 1 and 7 on the connector that you just unplugged and make certain power is getting to it. If so then the resistor is likely bad and the lock needs to be replaced otherwise find out why power is not getting to the circuit. Good Luck! ;)
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