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Discussion Starter #1
My central lock system is acting wonky...

However I lock the car, all the door locks lock, and then almost immediately reopen. Key in the driver door/passenger door, or central console switch. All have the same problem.

My pictogram works indicating the driver door is open when it's actually open, and closed when I close the driver door ie: the pictogram light goes out indicating to me the drivers door switch is working correctly.

I've verified the grounds at G6Grounding point, negative distribution terminal, in the main fuse box (22B) behind the glove box.G8Grounding point, dashboard, by the left-hand front loudspeaker socket.G14Grounding point, left-hand front seat member.
Central Locking Issues

I'm a little unsure of the PRECISE location of 22B since the latter 9K's don't have glove boxes and the fuse panel got changed a bit but I imagine I'd have lots of electrical problems if this ground were bad...? I did pull the fuse and relay panel down to verify NO corrosion in any parts and general security of all the wiring there.

I disconnected the plug in the drivers door, no change
I disconnected the plug in the passenger door and no change.

And I've replaced the CLM under the dash with a known good one and have the same lock, immediate un-commanded un-lock symptom/problem.

The only other remotely connected thing is a week ago during a rain storm the saab's car alarm went off at 2am...:eek: I don't know if this was from wind or heroin addicts (yes, that's a thing here in Ohio...) looking for change...
At any rate the passenger side floor was quite wet from the sunroof drain backing up. But the fuse panel area was dry so I don't know.
Everything worked proper the next day when I tried shaking the car to set off the alarm (and couldn't...) The central locks effed up a few days later...

Thoughts?

I've already tried resetting the vss defaults with my tech2. Cycling the locks with the tech2 gives the same results as using the door-key.

It's not a huge deal going back to manual locks (just leave the CLM disconnedted) but I get nervous when any bit of saab wiring gets unsolvable what that may lead to -- I 'fear' the saab wiring snowball... :eek:

Pulled the drivers side door card off today and disconnected the blue sensor/switch which defeated the "door open" symbol on the pictogram and allowed me to cycle the locks with the drivers door open.
BUT, as soon as all the locks lock, they all re-open.

I'm guessing at this point that it's a short in the CLM wiring causing the un-commanded unlock after locking...

But I'm very open to any useful suggestions -- there might even be craft beer involved for the person that leads me to a solution. (I've already thought of buying an after market controller and re-wiring the locks... hard parts done -- all the motors are already there!)

Cheers!
 

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Try to disconnect drivers door central lock motor from rod (leave it hanging and connected to wires).
Now try to lock doors.
If now works, you have wrong adjustment of rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Try to disconnect drivers door central lock motor from rod (leave it hanging and connected to wires).
Now try to lock doors.
If now works, you have wrong adjustment of rod.
Interesting -- is this ONLY for the adjustment of the drivers door -- the other doors couldn't do this?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Would that also cause the door key unlock to stop working, but lock continues working?
I currently leave the CLM disconnected and lock the car manually with the keys or door buttons. They all operate fine that way.

Electrically the locks won't stay locked long enough to see if turning the key would unlock them faster...
 

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Check the door lock motor as Mimmi said. You might also, first, want to pop the console button assembly and disconnect it. There might be water in it. I'm just wondering if the driver's door motor rod adjustment could be causing my issue. I have a console button issue as well and have adjusted the rocker contacts several times now but I can't get it to do anything now. How did you force the CLM to lock/unlock with the Tech2? I don't see anything in the menu for 1994 on my v44.000 software for it under diag/body.
 

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You could also have worn out lock motor. There is contact points who commands central lock to lock/open locks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Try to disconnect drivers door central lock motor from rod (leave it hanging and connected to wires).
Now try to lock doors.
If now works, you have wrong adjustment of rod.
You could also have worn out lock motor. There is contact points who commands central lock to lock/open locks.
Wouldn't both these possibilities be eliminated by my disconnecting the wiring plug in the door?
No electrical input/output to the various door motors resulted in any change.

If there were a short in the wiring such that the "un-lock" command is always powered how would I test that?
The power is a pulse, not constant...
So would I need to check for the unlock electrical pulse while hitting the unlock switch to confirm this theory?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Check the door lock motor as Mimmi said. You might also, first, want to pop the console button assembly and disconnect it. There might be water in it. I'm just wondering if the driver's door motor rod adjustment could be causing my issue. I have a console button issue as well and have adjusted the rocker contacts several times now but I can't get it to do anything now. How did you force the CLM to lock/unlock with the Tech2? I don't see anything in the menu for 1994 on my v44.000 software for it under diag/body.
Pretty sure I've already disconnected the center consol switch pack and the door locks still mis-perform the same way.
But I'll reconfirm that -- it only takes 5min to reconfirm that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Playing about with the door lock issue today I have a new symptom to add: Don't know how I missed it before but...

If I manually lock all the doors, I can't automatically unlock them with the console unlock button, the tech2, or the door key.

Turning the door key to lock -- ALL the locks automatically lock (and then immediately unlock) but if I manually lock the doors and turn the key to unlock, ONLY the door the key is in unlocks -- all the other locks remain locked...
 

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Replace central lock motor in drivers door.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Now that I've got some additional info to work with:
My Tech2 indicates both systems (lock and unlock) ACTIVE at the same time...

This would further indicate the alarm module is somehow the problem...
Might be a while before I have the motivation to pull the fuse panel out to gain access to the alarm module but at least I now have the pin outs and a test procedure to confirm with.

From there I'll just need a way to "remove" the connection from the alarm module to the CLM...

"I'm sorry Dave, I can't let you do that"
Hal 9000 (Space Odyssey)


Diagnostic procedure


1Check the operation of the central locking system
  • Connect an Intelligent Saab Tester (ISAT) scan tool,
  • Select "READ VALUES".
  • Select "LOCK SIGNAL" or "UNLOCK SIGNAL".
  • Lock or unlock the central locking system using the door key lock.
The ISAT scan tool should display "INACTIVE" when the key is in its normal position and "ACTIVE" when the key is turned.
Does it display correct readings for the locked and unlocked central locking system?

[YES]Continue with point 5.
[NO]Continue with point 2.
 

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I just pulled my driver's door handle off and the micro-switch inside is broken. If I short the lock/unlock circuits the system works properly. That is the switch that Mimmi is referring to. There is a contact "switch" on the door latch but that is a grounding contact for locking only when you push the lock button down. The switch is fairly easy to get to but you'll have to remove the lower glass guide on the left side (two hex screws from end of door), the catch, the actuator motor, and disconnect the latch rod from the handle. There's a hinged lock on the end of the ball joint you just swing out and then it will pop off like an RC servo arm. I am putting a video together for repairing mine. You can still get the micro-switch from Sweden dealer via eSaabParts or NordicSpeed(>100bux!). I'm trying to see if I can find the OE part manufacturer source. Cherry (ZF now) made the original switch. Looks like the model is 422B and it's made for the lock cylinder. I tried fixing mine but it's beyond hope, there's a broken wire inside the sealed assembly. I'm going to have replace it.

Part# 4088852 "RH" side
Part# 9566159 "LH" side

271906
 

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OH, almost forgot; to get the switch assembly off of the cylinder you will need to use the key to rotate the barrel until the barrel is in full lock or full unlock position. The collar has a retaining tab that prevents the switch from sliding off when at any other position. Just use a wide blade screwdriver and nudge it towards the key side of the cylinder and it will slide off.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Previous troubleshooting showed my switches were good but I am curious while you're in there...

As to general troubleshooting of the CLS. Is there anything about how those switches are wired / grounded that they are NOT completely eliminated from the troubleshooting process by disconnecting the harness at the door frame?
 

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I would need to look at the diagram again. I would think the console switch and the door handle switch would be parallel ground points. One way to check is to check continuity between the console switch connector and the door inter-connect. There shouldn't be any except maybe for the ground source. The wires on the lock/unlock switch are black(common ground), red, and yellow and are about 20AWG, much smaller than the other wires.
 

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I just disconnected the alarm box from my 94 after having issues with the stereo and it is behaving in a similar fashion but backwards. If I lock the car via the key and then try to unlock it immediately re-locks. I have to lock from the door then press the console lock several times in a row to get it to lock. Then, though, I can not unlock from the console.I have to unlock from the door. I have the dash gutted at this point so I'm hoping I can trace it more easily.
 
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