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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For several years I've intended to try a little distributor hybridization, and, well, I finally got around to it.

The origin here is that the electrical connector on Turbo! distributors is always breaking. It's a terrible design. It's been historically difficult to find replacements for Saab (and for Volvo), but oddly not for VW. Guess there's just more of them. It's a dumb problem, because they all use the same Hall sensor... one of these:

HME301
HKZ101
HKZ101S
HKZ101N
HKZ121

Saab used two connectors - the early oval plug and the later rectangular plug. The cutover is sometime in '88 I think.. I've seen '88s with both. I think Volvo only ever used the oval plug, probably because they switched to a crank-mount sensor for all models? IDK. VW used two connectors as well - originally the oval connector, but later a a different rectangular one... not the same as Saab.

While quite similar, I just learned that there are two distributors as well... the early oval plug fits into a 17mm recess in the distributor body, and the later rectangular plug into a 23mm recess. VW used the same connector for both bodies.

For a while everyone thought the Hall sensors were gone, but you can generally buy one of the above part numbers from electronics suppliers without much effort. Of course, installing them is kinda painful, but it's workable. The issue is the connectors are NLA. For Saab and Volvo. But VW? No problem.

This morning I took a damaged distributor apart. This is an early-style distributor, that had a (broken) oval plug and a 17mm recess.



You can see remains of the mountain of epoxy someone tried to use to salvage the connector!

Getting to this stage requires:

1. Remove distributor cap
2. Remove rotor
3. Remove dust shield
4. Remove circlip (1) holding the shutter wheel on
5. Pulling the shutter wheel off (BE CAREFUL)
6. Remove circlip (2)
7. Remove circlip (3)
8. Remove Hall sensor plate (see next photo)
9. Remove screws on the outside holding support plate
10. Remove support plate

Step #5 is the only difficult one!

Here is what the early Saab / oval plug Hall sensor plate looks like, alongside a $20 VW replacement Hall sensor.



I will need to enlarge the recess on my distributor body from 17mm to 24mm to fit the VW connector body. This isn't really precise work, but obviously I want a nice fit of the new connector. If this was a later distributor with the rectangular plug, I would not need to do this.

I'm gonna work on that shortly and will follow up with some additional pictures.
 

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Unfortunately, I think most of that $20 is for mail service. I put a new sensor in mine too. Anyway, no biggie and your work on this will of great use to all of us on the forum. Thanks and happy holidays!!
 

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2001 9-5 SportCombi 2.0t SE auto-4
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I may be wrong or mistake something right now, but have you ever heard of 123ignition? They are specialized in making distributors for classic cars with the twist that - depending on the model - you can program them to your needs and desires. As they are currently offering only a model for the 95/96 and AFAIK the inline-4 is a Triumph design, I have added the link to the Triumph distributors:


If I am wrong/mistaken, forget that I ever posted this. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would say cost is really the issue there. With 300€ on the table you could make some substantial inroads on a T5 conversion. I'm aiming for a 20€ "get me back on the road with minimum fuss" solution. ;)

I gotta say, though, that's a damn neat product, and I'm disappointed they don't have a distributor for my 7.0l Fleetwood... I would probably buy one!

OR my 3.4l Fiero. Dammit!
 

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2001 9-5 SportCombi 2.0t SE auto-4
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Ah, okay. Understood. ;)

You could contact 123ignition about the distributors for your US irons, and with others being interested it might lower the costs too. There's another company offering similar products but damn if I could remember the name.
 

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Ah, okay. Understood. ;)

You could contact 123ignition about the distributors for your US irons, and with others being interested it might lower the costs too. There's another company offering similar products but damn if I could remember the name.
I've rebuilt the dizzy on my 1992 turbo and it's not difficult. As noted, the Hall sensor is easy to replace and the connector is available or one can use a work-around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
As mentioned before, the later Saab rectangular plug and VW rectangular plug are physically larger than the early Saab/Volvo oval plug...



So I fixed that with a Dremel... the distributor is soft aluminum - a crappy Amazon cutoff wheel slices through it easily.



There is about 6mm that needs to be removed - not much material is involved.

After that, drill off the rivets holding the old Hall sensor to the plate, and install the new sensor. There isn't a great way for the DIYer to attach the new sensor - I used a small hammer and a philips screwdriver to spread the rivet, then a tiny drift to cinch it down real nice.

Assembly, as they say, is the reverse of removal with one caveat. I think the distributor I am mucking with is from an '85, which is a one year part... the '85 distributor is clocked 90 degrees off from later ones. The intersection of the 90 clocking plus the addition of the Saab vacuum module means the VW connector will not clear one of the "legs" from the center support. I trimmed down the leg with the Dremel, removing about 1mm of material. I don't know if later distributors also have this issue, but if I find one to sacrifice I'll report back. In any case, if the VW connector does not fully seat in the distributor, don't force it, check for interference on the inside. I've highlighted the area to inspect:



Once clearanced, it goes right back together:





Next step for me is getting a VW chassis-side connector. It's an AMP/TE part, but unusual. I haven't looked too hard, but Dave has it:


I think if one withdrew the terminals from the Saab connector, they would plug right into this VW connector as it's all JPT stuff. That said, especially with the earlier oval connectors those terminals are usually corroded. So, I'll use new terminals.

One thing you may notice is that this connector faces the wrong direction, towards the ignition leads. I don't think this is going to be an issue, but we'll see. My investment so far is 45 minutes and $18, so... not worried. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's a JPT connector, but I suspect like several others it was purpose built for VW or Bosch, and there is no general source for them. It does not appear in AMP's JPT catalogs (that I can find). It's possible if I get one in hand I'll find a part number, but without that it's tedious work to undertake to save a couple bucks. Dave has 'em, I'm happy to give him money for his effort. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I wish I had done this stuff years ago. It's just not that complicated, and probably would have saved a lot of headaches junkyarding and Frankensteining distributors! I really don't have an excuse... I just didn't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My opinion is yes, because my aim is serviceability.... I want to be able to order parts from a variety of places on short notice and not be reliant on "one dude on the internet." I've got a lot of orphan cars, and IME that guy is never around when you need him. I will prefer adapted commodity parts at every turn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I would feel differently if the 3D file was available for everyone to print instead of being held by one person. I understand why someone wouldn't release their work, but at the same time that approach makes it useless for me.
 
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