Did the Job last night
Hi Gang.
The Rotors were a little worn, but not too bad. I just replaced the front pads and all is well.
Relatively simple.
1. Loosen bolts with car still on ground (may need breaker bar). Never do when jacked - you'll be working against the transmission.
2. Jack and secure Car
3. Chock rear wheel for safety. Use block of wood or brick. I used one of those individual car ramps I drive up on to do Exhaust work.
4. Unscrew and take off tire. Hopefully you already own one of thise "X"-wrenches that make taking off tires fun. THey only cost a few bucks and are totally worth it.
5. Take off retaining spring. Make sure you note how it's on. I put my first side on wrong at first. Take a picture with a digital camera if you have to. It's easy to get off and a bit more crappy to get on.
6. Remove dust plugs (on back) to access 2 caliper bolts.
7. Unscrew bolts that are an insanely odd Allen-Wrench size..7mm, I think. I went searching through a TON of sizes, before I found a bit from one of those cheap multi-bit screwdrivers. It was actually the reverse side of a bit... the back side was the right size. I'm pretty sure it was 7mm. It was definitely not 8, and definitely not 6. Bizaare. It helps if you use a stubby handle socket wrench too. I bought an awesome adjustible one at VIP for 9.99$ Total bargain. Perfect size for working on the brakes.
8. After bolts are unscrewed, you need to work them further out with a pair of plyers or your fingers. They're covered in a rubber housing, so you can't just screw them out. Just push them partway back through the housing to give yourself more room. I wouldn't take them out all the way.
9. Okay. We need to take off the caliper next. It's a little heavy, and has a tube coming from it... the brake fluid. Do not let this thing hang or pull out. I balanced my caliper on top of the rotor. Easy enough. So... take off the Caliper. Depending on the wear of the rotor, it may be tricky. I had to tap mine with a hammer and work it off with a screwdriver. It will probably pop off with only one brake pad, the one on the backside. The front one is considered fixed because it fits, in notches, next to the rotor. You'll see.
10. With the caliper off and balanced, remove the fixed brake pad from the rotor. Marvel at how worn it is. Depending on the temperature of the day, you may want go get a soda or a beer - you decide.
11. Unplug the adjustible pad from the piston inside the caliper (the caliper is still plugged into the brake line). The Piston is this 2-2.5 inch open cylinder inside the caliper. It has a rubber cover around it.
12. Take a brush or towel and clean the caliper. Maybe use dw40. I did, but make sure to not leave it dripping. Clean it out good. Get out as much dirt and stuff as you can. They say not to breathe this stuff - makes sense. The plug from the back of the brake pad may have broken off in the caliper. Pull it out. Look at the new brake pad if you're confused.
13. After it's been cleaned, you need to push the piston back into the caliper. This is the piece that the brake fluid pushes on to push the brake pad onto the rotor to get you to stop. I do not think this can be pushed in by hand. I used a flat piece of metal and a big "C" clamp. Put the piece of metal (or piece of small wood) inside the caliper, over the piston, set the clamp and turn it to force the piston back into its housing. The resistance you feel is the piston pushing the brake fluid back through the hose and into the fluid reservoir. Crank until it's all the way in.
13. Plug in the new brake pad (only one brake pad has a plug on its back) into the piston opening, inside the caliper.
14. Plug the fixed brake pad into its spot on the rotor. You can use brake lubricant at this point if you want. Some pads come with it. Mine came with a miniscule tube, but I didn't bother. It would wear away pretty quick anyway.
15. Slide the caliper back into position over the rotor and fixed brake pad.
16. Screw the hex bolts back in (7mm crap).
17. Stick dust plugs back in.
18. Place wire, retaining, springy thing back into place. They say it's a spring, but it doesn't feel like one to me. Make sure it's in the right position. I did mine wrong the first time and had to re-do a wheel. It's a little tricky to get back in. I think I ended plugging in the ends and pulling the spring from the middle, back into position. If you took a good digital picture, you're all set.
19. If you were to try and move the caliper, it should probably feel a little loose.
20. Press down on the brake pedal a few times to get pressure built and move the piston in the caliper. The piston, which has the inside pad plugged into it, will push out and press the brake pad against the rotor.
21. If you try to shake the caliper, it should have firmed up. If not, press on the brake a few more times.
22. Put the wheel back on. Tighten bolts.
23. Lower car. Repeat on opposite side.
24. Push on the brake to build pressure and then go for a short drive to test.
Brake pads have to wear in a little, so they may feel a little "Spongey", depending on the quality of the rotors. After a couple presses to build the pressure behind the piston, the brakes should be there. And they'll brake in pretty soon.
In the above process, we have not broken the brake fluid circuit... and therefore, you should not need to bleed the brake lines for air.
I only wish that I took photos. Maybe I will next month. I may do the rotors.
ALSO - I did this for two reasons. One, I like to do things myself. Two, it was lots cheaper. Meinekie wanted over 400$ to do the brakes and rotors. I kept the rotors and did the brakes myself. Pads cost me 29.99 at VIP Auto.
That's right..... 29.99$ versus over 400$.
I actually spent 41$, but only because I spent 10 bucks on that adjustible, stubby ratchet handle and a screwdriver. The ratchet handle cab also be adjusted to work at angles... it's killer. Don't forget to get a 7mm allen wrench (hex wrench) for the caliper bolts. I'm pretty sure it's 7mm.
Thanks gang.
-Durden7
97 saab 900 turbo se 2.0 120K
