SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 20 of 105 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I've seen a few threads in which members talk about their aftermarket lenses, but never actually seen a thread about it. Let me start by saying I'm new to the whole "retrofitting" or whatever you would like to call it, but I am pretty handy with things so the swap was no problem for me. It just requires a lot of patience. I have the normal halogen headlights without auto leveling, you may follow this guide but it may be different. I'll start from the very beginning to make sure it is as informative as possible.


DIY Projector Lens Swap


What this does

-Sharper cutoff line
-Increased light output (Both HID and halogen)
-Looks sexy
-PICTURES OF RESULTS ARE HERE

Tools required

-Screwdriver (One with interchangeable bits)
-T10 Torx bit
-3" ZKW-r lens from theretrofitsource.com
-Oven (for opening headlight assembly)
-Needle nose pliers
-RTV Ultra Black (Can be had at any auto parts store, for resealing headlight assembly)
-Patience ;)


The Swap

1. Start by removing your front bumper in order to gain access to the headlight assembly. After removing the front bumper, remove both headlights. There are 3 screws holding the headlight unit in place (2 on top and 1 on the underneath closest to the fender). I didn't take pictures for this section as there are plenty of threads that cover it.

If you don't feel like searching, here is an awesome video that shows you the removal of the bumper and headlights:

2. We need to put the headlights in the oven in order to separate the plastic lens from the housing. Remove all bulbs/covers/plastic from the housing. The headlights should be put in the oven on 210 Degrees Farenheit (98 Celcius) for 10 minutes. After heating the headlights, the glue should be warm enough to separate the plastic lens. If not, put them in the oven for another 5 minutes at a time until glue is warm enough. There are threads on this I'm sure.



3. After separating the lens you will find that the housing is made up of 2 parts; the turn signal enclosure and the projector/high beam enclosure. We need to remove the turn signal enclosure. It is held in place be 3 small tabs, gently pulling should do the trick.



4. We now have access to the projector/high beam enclosure. This is where it gets kind of tricky. The enclosure has 3 connectors holding it in place. The first 2 are on the top, connected to the manual adjustements. The 3rd one is located on the bottom, towards the rear of the housing. The connectors are a simple socket, some light prying with a flat object and pulling does the trick.

This is the hardest part, so be patient to keep from breaking any of these. It was easiest to start with the top right, then the bottom, and finally undoing the top left. I found that a small flathead screwdriver paired with my finger worked great for separating the sockets.





5.
Pat yourself on the back, the hard part is over :p

6. Pick up the projector/High beam housing, looks like this (Yours should be shiny, mine was previously blacked out) :



Flip it over to expose the nuts holding the projector assembly to the housing. Undo the nuts with a needle nose plier (if you have a socket that fits, use that) :

 

· Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
We now have the important piece! The projector!



7. Take this time to open up your new lenses from TRS, observe how clean and clear they are compared to the stock fresnel lenses:

ZKW-r

Stock


8. Grab the projector and hold it with the lens facing towards you. There are 4 screws holding the metal bracket to the reflector bowl, 2 on top 2 on the bottom. (Didn't realize pics were blurry, you get the idea)




BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE PROJECTOR BOWL, *IF YOU DO CLEAN IT BE EXTREMELY GENTLE AND NO CHEMICALS*. Mine are pretty nasty, and when I stupidly tried to wipe off some dirt, I wiped off the reflective material. IF ITS NOT BROKEN DON'T FIX IT. I warned you.

9. You should now have the bracket with the lens attached to it. If you look on the inside (Flat) part of the lens, you will notice a metal ring held in by little tabs along the bracket. This is holding the lens in place. Carefully pry these tabs off of the metal ring. After straightening these tabs, the lens should push out from the front. Keep the metal ring, we need this to fit the new lens.



10. You should now have an empty bracket in front of you. Take on of your new lenses and pop it in the same way the old one was in there. Be VERY CAREFUL not to scratch it, I recommend having a microfiber towel handy. After popping in the new lens, place the metal ring over the back of it, the same way it was fitted originally. Bend the metal tabs back in over the metal ring ( Again being very careful not to scratch the lens) and viola! The new lens has been fitted into the projector bracket.

SOMETHING TO NOTE; The ZKW-r lens has a notch at the top and a small curve in the lense at the bottom. I lined the notch up with the small notch in the bracket. It seemed to show the best cutoff and colors this way.



11. You should now be ready to refit the bracket to the projector bowl. Fitting is opposite to removal; slide the bracket over the projector bowl, tighten the four screws. At this point you can test to make sure the projector is how you want it. Testing is tricky and somewhat sketchy if you're like me. MAKE SURE TO WIPE DOWN BOTH SIDES OF THE LENS! YOU DON'T WANT SMUDGES ALL OVER IT!

OPTIONAL: I added a one small spacers between each bolt connecting the projector bowl to the projector bracket, for me it seemed to increase the blue cuttoff line on one and on the other it showed red blue and purple above the cutoff :eek: YMMV. Now is the time to try things like this, getting back to this stage sucks.
This is also a good time to paint/blackout your headlights if you wanted to.

12. With the projector assembly being put back together, you are ready to refit it to the projector/high beam housing ! Again, fitting is opposite of removal. The projector housing only slide back onto the bolts one way, so fit it and re-tighten the nuts.



13. Check to make sure everything is tight and the way it should be. You can now pop the sockets of the projector/high beam housing back into the main headlight assembly. With the sockets, its easiest to start with Top left, bottom, and then top right; opposite of removal.


14. With the main housing back in you can refit the turn signal housing, the 3 tabs should just slide into place. The turn signal bulb is what holds the housing to the back of the headlight assembly.

*Now is a great time to go pop in your bulbs and make sure the lens looks correct, if something looks wrong try to figure out where it isn't seated correctly !*


15. If everything looks correct, you're ready to reseal the headlight. Apply some RTV Ultra Black (Or similar silicone) inside of the black track of the headlight housing, making sure to go around the entire track. When it looks nice and covered, grab your plastic lens and reinsert it into the track, making sure the 4 plastic tabs (2 top, 2 bottom) lock into place. Keep it tight and in place by wrapping a shoelace, belt, something you can tighten around the entire headlight. Let it sit at least overnight, in order to let the silicone cure.


16. After its done drying, refit the headlights and front bumper to your car and marvel at your new clear lenses!


Pictures of what the results should look like are in my 3rd post.


If you have any questions or need clarification on any part, feel free to pm me or post here. Enjoy.

.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Pictures of the new lenses, both new and old. I was unable to get a picture with both lenses installed with my HID's, but will have them soon. I will put up some pictures of the halogens as I am currently waiting for my replacement DDM bulb :evil: Time to order some new 5000k's from TRS.

ZKW-r lens : Cutoff is amazing, and light output is more intense. My projector bowls are toast so yours may look brighter/better :cool: First two pics are from about 25 feet, last one about 35

Stock lens (I'm pretty sure?) : Cutoff is blurred, light is more dispersed from the fresnel lens. I will get more pics with my new bulbs.


Some more ZKW-r



Halogens :




I dont have a picture with both HID's yet, but I have one with ZKW-r drivers side and stock passenger side. Still very bright with my 6000K bulbs. You can see on the left how the light stops at the cutoff, and on the right the light is kind of everywhere. Good representation of lenses.

 

· Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good job, I'm glad uu did the writeup so others cann benefit. I hope my input was helpful, you're gonna love the clears. Great cutoff and color.
Yes thank you very much for all of the advice, gave me the courage to rip into it ;ol; I actually didn't get to test both of the clears out, one of my DDM crap bulbs started a mini fire in my headlight housing :cheesy:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
Great write up, saved in my "things to do" list ;ol;

One thing "210 for 10 minutes" I assume is Fahrenheit?Might be smart to specify, quite sure I saw a post in here somewhere where a guy assumed it was Celsius and melted his...
;)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great write up, saved in my "things to do" list ;ol;

One thing "210 for 10 minutes" I assume is Fahrenheit?Might be smart to specify, quite sure I saw a post in here somewhere where a guy assumed it was Celsius and melted his...
;)
Try to swap projectors and melt your headlights instead.... Haha great catch, I'll make sure to go and clarify :cheesy:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Very nice, detailed write up.....saving for the future.


Sean
Thanks glad you find it useful ;ol;

Look great but i would never risk it on a auto leveling headlight that are worth 600+ a side tough. :eek:
If you guys with auto leveling headlights were reallllly desperate for the clear lenses, and based on what goes on internally on those headlights, you could maybe get crafty with a dremel and remove just enough room in the back of the housing to remove the 3 nuts holding in the projector housing and enough room to slide it out.. Skips all oven and tearing apart.. Pull out the projector assembly swap lens screw back in and epoxy the hole you just made :cool:

No clue if this is actually possible but just trying to help....

.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,545 Posts
I have some "extra" HID headlight housings that are partially broken (search other threads by me) that I am attempting to repair. I have done the oven method to one of them to get it apart, so it is doable. That black RTV is tough stuff to unglue. I will get some clear lenses before I put the first one back together. The reflector bowl has lost some of it's chrome, I assume it should be possible to get it re-chromed. Anybody do this or should I just get whole projector assemblies? If the first one turns out OK I will try to document what I did with the second one. It might be awhile though, work is killing me at the moment.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
I have some "extra" HID headlight housings that are partially broken (search other threads by me) that I am attempting to repair. I have done the oven method to one of them to get it apart, so it is doable. That black RTV is tough stuff to unglue. I will get some clear lenses before I put the first one back together. The reflector bowl has lost some of it's chrome, I assume it should be possible to get it re-chromed. Anybody do this or should I just get whole projector assemblies? If the first one turns out OK I will try to document what I did with the second one. It might be awhile though, work is killing me at the moment.
Replace the projectors. Direct swap for $150. If I had my lights open I wouldn't even bother with just the lenses. I would swap those projectors in. I am tempted to d it to my lights with a dremel on the back, but without a backup I wont risk it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,336 Posts
Replace the projectors. Direct swap for $150. If I had my lights open I wouldn't even bother with just the lenses. I would swap those projectors in. I am tempted to d it to my lights with a dremel on the back, but without a backup I wont risk it.
So now you're tempted to do it? You are a very confusing individual. You said clear lenses would blind other drivers and advised against it, but now suddenly you would be tempted to do it. Lol. Sorry, just saying...
 

· Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
I did the swap today. Instead of baking the headlight, I cut the opening in the back a little larger so I could unbolt the projector and pull it out from the back.

I took one picture, I'll post it tomorrow. The clear lenses definitely make the output brighter and sharper. The auto level still functions properly. I almost wish I swapped in better projectors since I already had the headlights open.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
So now you're tempted to do it? You are a very confusing individual. You said clear lenses would blind other drivers and advised against it, but now suddenly you would be tempted to do it. Lol. Sorry, just saying...
Glad I have a stalker :lol:

I am tempted to swap my projectors, not the lenses. I can always put the fresnel ones in the evox-r or adjust it so it's not so sharp. Run off little boy and let the grown ups talk :nono;
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,336 Posts
I did the swap today. Instead of baking the headlight, I cut the opening in the back a little larger so I could unbolt the projector and pull it out from the back.

I took one picture, I'll post it tomorrow. The clear lenses definitely make the output brighter and sharper. The auto level still functions properly. I almost wish I swapped in better projectors since I already had the headlights open.
That's what I did the second time. I cut from the ope circle on back where the big rubber cap goes on, a rectangular opening under the assembly. I left one side attached, heated it with a heat gun and bent it open enuf to unbolt and remove the projectors. I then used JB Weld and plastic steel to seal the cut edges closed. It worked out great. I also bolted and siliconed the Morimoto's ballasts under the headlight where the factory ballast would've mounted with OEM xenons.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I did the swap today. Instead of baking the headlight, I cut the opening in the back a little larger so I could unbolt the projector and pull it out from the back.

I took one picture, I'll post it tomorrow. The clear lenses definitely make the output brighter and sharper. The auto level still functions properly. I almost wish I swapped in better projectors since I already had the headlights open.

At least my thinking wasn't too far fetched. Glad you got it swapped. I felt the same way, so I left mine slightly unsealed for now...... :cool:

Glad I have a stalker :lol:

I am tempted to swap my projectors, not the lenses. I can always put the fresnel ones in the evox-r or adjust it so it's not so sharp. Run off little boy and let the grown ups talk :nono;
Our stock lenses are pretty dull. No clue why you would waste time with new projectors if our lenses would dull and blur all that focused light. Am I missing something about the sharpness because I find that being able to see more is typically better.. in just about every way... :confused: ....
 
1 - 20 of 105 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top