SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here is a little write up on those who want to do motor mounts. I only did the 2 torque mounts and passenger side motor mount with this stuff and it was a night to day difference in throttle responce, feel of the motor , and smoother shifting through all gears(seemed to take care of 1-2 shifting problem for me, but the is some interior vibration and even more with the A/C on but that is just sitting still on idle). I used Polyurethane filler to make the mounts (part #8644K24 from McMaster-Carr) this stiff is basicly the same stuff used to make polyurethane mounts. It almost turns to a softness of a bouncey ball, just to give you an ideal, you can get it stiffer. If you didn't want your interior to vibrate that much I would just stick with the 2 torque mounts.

Tools you will need:
Floor Jack or similar
2 Jack stands
16mm & 18mm wrench
flat head screwdriver
razor
1/2" ratchet
10" extension
16mm & 18mm socket for 1/2" ratchet
*ratchet only needed if you want to do the passenger motor mount

Parts:
Polyurethane - 1 lb will do three to four mounts
rubber gloves - recommended
duct tape
surane wrap

Step 1: Getting Started
Lift the car up on jack stands with floor Jack. Place jack stands on sub frame by the rear of the control arms. You can lift the car up on the center of the subframe(it is a "U" shaped metal bar extending around the bottom of the engine) behind the front bumper.

*note the picture shows the floor jack under the engine itself, it is there to support it when doing the passenger motor mount. Do Not Lift Car from there. If unsure where to place jacks or to lift from, look in owners manual for reference.

Step2: Passenger side Torque mount
Now you can take out the torque mounts under the car. There are two on the car. Passenger side is longer. Use the 18mm wrench to unbolt the torque mount from the subframe (1 bolt) and then use the 16mm wrench to unbolt it from the engine oil pan (2 bolts). Remove Passenger torque mount. It looks the same as the driver side torque mount just longer.


Step 3: Driver side Torque mount
This one you will need to remove the engine side of the motor mount first which is connected to the transmission use 18mm wrench (only 1 bolt). Then from there start to remove the subframe bolt from the torque mount. You will get it about half way out and notices it hits the exhaust. No easy way around it so grab on the exhaust (make sure it isn't hot) and pull down . You will find with enough wiggling that the bolt can make it out. Once bolt is out you can remove the motor mount. I used a flat head screwdriver to remove the shield it had on. I didn't put the shield back on when I reinstalled.


Step 4: Passenger Side Motor mount
Use flat head screwdriver to remove intake hose behind Mass Airflow Sensor. Unhook secondary airpump hose from the front of the intake box. Use torx bit 25 to remove top part of intake. Once removed take out air filter and remove lower intake box (this is held in by rubber pieces) takes a little manovering to get it out. There underneath the box you will find the motor mount. Now before you pull of the motor mount you will need to support the engine. I placed the floor jack under the engine and lifted very slightly on the oil pan near the torque mount bracket, if you never done this, use a wood piece inbetween the jack and oil pan, this is Only to support the engine not lift it. Once supported you can now remove the bolts, First start with the engine side bolts(there are 2 - 18mm), while removing bolts check to see if the engine is falling down from the mount, if it is, re-adjust the jack for better support. Once the engine is safely supported finish removing the 2 bolts on the mount and remove the 3 - 16mm bolts that are holding it onto the car. Remove mount.




Step 5: Filling
Start by getting the mounts ready. First clean off the parts, you don't need to clean the inside just the outside so the duct tape can stick. Use the surane wrap on one side and fill from the other. The surane wrap will seal but not hold the weight of the urethane. Use the duct tape over the the surane wrap, to prevent it from leaking out the bottom and sides(use at least one layer of duct tape and wrap it tight). Don't worry if you get it on the side or if it leaks a little, it is very easy to clean up on the parts, but lay down card board just in case. Once all of the parts are sealed you can mix the urethane with the hardener, 20 minutes before it really gets tuff to work with, so make sure everything is ready to go before mixing the urethane. Pour urethane in the mounts and let it sit for 24 - 48 hours(I let mine sit for 12 hours it was hard enough). Once dry take duct tape off and use razor to cut off any excess. They should look like this when done.
All three.


Reinstall reverse steps.
If you don't wear gloves and get the urethane on your skin, you can use gas to remove it.

I would like to add that this also helped my motor from stalling when it was warming up, I believe excessive play in the motor mounts caused this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
The first picture of the passenger side torque mount with the polyurethane already in it and here are the rest of the mounts, what they look like on the other side where they were filled from.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well after 1 week, mounts are doing very good, still haven't solved the engine stalling. Its only when its cold and idling when moving around 30 - 60 mph. Only happens once in a while.

Just to let people know this does help the shifting greatly. Although I will have to wait for it to get real cold, but even now its still a vast improvement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
I guess I'm a little confused. I would expect adding poly to the mounts would DECREASE vibration, yet you indicate that it has increased vibration...??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
mattrazzo said:
I guess I'm a little confused. I would expect adding poly to the mounts would DECREASE vibration, yet you indicate that it has increased vibration...??
When the mounts are filled with poly, they become stiffer and absorb less vibration so that vibration gets transfer to other parts of the car (like the dash and your seats):D . The motor itself has less movement in the engine compartment so the car responds quicker.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I still haven't filled the mount by the tranny. The car does vibrate more when the A/C is on at idle and when I start off and the rpms dip below 750 in gear. Thats about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,269 Posts
Dex4 said:
I still haven't filled the mount by the tranny. The car does vibrate more when the A/C is on at idle and when I start off and the rpms dip below 750 in gear. Thats about it.
Dang! I didn't know you were even still around, I thought you left a long time ago. This is nice!

Does the car seem to pull a bit harder?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
879 Posts
I'm guessing this is a 2.0t? Same process once the mounts are off the car for a 2.8 I'd assume, just really would like to know if I'm only trying to help with shifting feel which one or two would I do? The 2 mounts or 2 arms? Could The one by the tranny alone do it? I don't want to do more than 2 or max 3 b/c I don't want a TON of interior vibration. Recommendations?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
609 Posts
I'm guessing this is a 2.0t? Same process once the mounts are off the car for a 2.8 I'd assume, just really would like to know if I'm only trying to help with shifting feel which one or two would I do? The 2 mounts or 2 arms? Could The one by the tranny alone do it? I don't want to do more than 2 or max 3 b/c I don't want a TON of interior vibration. Recommendations?

In my drag car, I used a solid mount for the front and rear, And a softer poly for the sides to help with the vibrations.

I would replace the front and rear to make them stiffer..that would cut down on engine movement
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
After you do this it is possible to push them out, so it is reversible.

Right now I don't have them in any more, but will be redoing them this spring. I am just going to try doing the side mounts and leave the torque mount.


Notice:**I did happen to remove the poly from the passenger side mount and left the torque mounts in, which made the car shake even worse than having the 3 done.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top