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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was looking on the forum for a step by step way to remove the front wheel bearing and came up with nothing. I found this in a PDF file form but can't upload it because it's too big of a file. I can't see spending $400.00+ to do this job. I'm replacing my right bearing today and will post my results.

Front-wheel bearings
To remove
1. Undo the hub centre-nut when the car is standing on all four wheels.

2. Raise the car. If a jack is used, the car must be supported on axle stands.

3. Remove the wheel.

4. Remove the hub centre-nut completely.

5. Push back the brake piston using adjustable pliers. Remove the brake caliper from

the spindle housing and hang it on the spring with a piece of suitable steel wire.

6.

Remove the brake disc retaining bolt and remove the brake disc.
7. Suspension, wheels\Wheel hub Adjustment/Replacement - To re...

9-5 (9600) 1 2001 1
7. Remove the ABS sensor retaining bolt and lift up the sensor.

8.

Remove the nut on the new track rod end and remove the track rod using puller 89

96 696.
7. Suspension, wheels\Wheel hub Adjustment/Replacement - To re...

9-5 (9600) 1 2001 2
9. Unscrew the bolts securing the steering swivel member to the MacPherson strut and

move aside the bracket for the ABS sensor cable and the brake hose.

10.

Remove the bolt securing the steering swivel member ball joint to the steering

swivel member.
7. Suspension, wheels\Wheel hub Adjustment/Replacement - To re...

9-5 (9600) 1 2001 3
11. Remove the bolts on the disc back-plate through the hole in the hub and remove the

disc back-plate.
7. Suspension, wheels\Wheel hub Adjustment/Replacement - To re...

9-5 (9600) 1 2001 4
12. Remove the ABS sensor holder.

13. Tap out the drive shaft from the hub using a plastic hammer.

14. Remove the steering swivel member.

15. Press off the hub using tool 89 96 704 (KM-500-5).

16.

Remove the circlip.
7. Suspension, wheels\Wheel hub Adjustment/Replacement - To re...

9-5 (9600) 1 2001 5
17. Press out the bearing using tool 89 96 704 (KM-500-2 and KM-500-3).
7. Suspension, wheels\Wheel hub Adjustment/Replacement - To re...

9-5 (9600) 1 2001 6
To fit
1. Lubricate the bearing surface on the steering swivel member with Molycote Rapid G

and press in a new bearing using tool 89 96 704 (KM-500-4 and KM-500-5).

2.

Fit the circlip with the opening pointing downwards.
7. Suspension, wheels\Wheel hub Adjustment/Replacement - To re...

9-5 (9600) 1 2001 7
3. Press on the hub using tool 89 96 704 (KM-500-3 and KM-500-5).
7. Suspension, wheels\Wheel hub Adjustment/Replacement - To re...

9-5 (9600) 1 2001 8
4. Fit the drive shaft in the hub and push it home with a new hub centre-nut.
Important
Always fit a new hub-centre nut if it has been

removed because the clamping force of the lock

indentations will be reduced if the old one is

refitted.

Use a nut with top groove.

5. Fit the holder for the ABS sensor and disc back-plates.

6.

Fit the steering swivel member ball-joint in the steering swivel member and the bolt

securing the steering swivel member to the ball-joint. Fit the nut. Make sure that the

bolt fits in the recess on the steering swivel member ball-joint.
7. Suspension, wheels\Wheel hub Adjustment/Replacement - To re...

9-5 (9600) 1 2001 9
7. Press the steering swivel member into the MacPherson strut and put in place the

bracket for the ABS sensor cable and the brake hose. Tighten the bolts securing the

steering swivel member to the MacPherson strut.
Tightening torque 100 Nm +45° (75 lbf ft +45°) .
8. Tighten the bolt securing the steering swivel member to the steering swivel member

ball-joint.
Tightening torque 85 Nm (65 lbf ft)
9. Fit the track rod end to the steering swivel member and tighten the nut.
Tightening torque 60 Nm (45 lbf ft)
10.

Fit the ABS sensor.
7. Suspension, wheels\Wheel hub Adjustment/Replacement - To re...

9-5 (9600) 1 2001 10
11. Fit the brake disc in place and tighten the brake disc retaining screw.

12.

Make sure that the brake piston is pressed back in the cylinder and then fit the

brake caliper using locking compound 74 96 268 on the bolts to the steering swivel

member.
7. Suspension, wheels\Wheel hub Adjustment/Replacement - To re...

9-5 (9600) 1 2001 11
Tightening torque 110 Nm (80 lbf ft)
13. Fit the wheel,​
Wheels.

Tightening torques

aluminium rim 110 Nm (81 lbf ft)

pressed steel rim 50 Nm +2x90°, max. 110 Nm (37 lbf ft +2x90°, max. 81

lbf ft)
14. Lower the car and fit a new hub centre-nut when the car is standing on all four

wheels.
Tightening torque 170 Nm +45° (126 lbf ft +45°).
15. Depress the brake pedal to press out the pistons in the brake calipers.
7. Suspension, wheels\Wheel hub Adjustment/Replacement - To re...

9-5 (9600) 1 2001 12
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok, got it done. It's way too simple of a job to let a mechanic just take your money. The bearing was $67.00, 32mm socket for the hub nut was $7.00 and the garage took $40.00 from me. In total it cost me $114.00 and almost 2 hours to tear down and put back together. The caliper bolts, tie rod end nut, strut nuts & bolts and lower ball joint nut & bolt are all 18mm and the 2 speed sensor bolts are 10mm. Be careful with the speed sensor, the unit has a bolt that goes into the hub assembly and a little plastic prong on the other end that also goes into the hub assembly. In all I'd say if you do the regular prevenitive matenence on you car you can do this and put that saved cash into your gas tank.:cheesy: Oh, let your mechanic know in advance that you will need his services for the press.
 

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Do you happen to have the .PDF file still. Can you send it to me? Any pictures of the process? Any help would be great thanks.
 

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The first step says to undo the hub center nut while the car is standing on all four wheels....



How is this possible without taking a wheel off?
 

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You pop the center cap off the wheel and it exposes the nut. It's on there so tight you need a lot of torque to remove it, hence having the wheels on the ground. If it's on jack stands and you apply that much torque you risk it being pushed off. I would never try this with the car up.
 

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Josdek said:
You pop the center cap off the wheel and it exposes the nut. It's on there so tight you need a lot of torque to remove it, hence having the wheels on the ground. If it's on jack stands and you apply that much torque you risk it being pushed off. I would never try this with the car up.
Interesting.

Ive worked on my car (mostly my old 2001) with the wheels off many many times and I never noticed there was a nut in there!
 

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I hope you have a nut behind your wheel cap because that is the nut that holds your half axle in. Josdek that is the way I have always removed the nut on a car unless I had my impact up and running. Which now I don't work in a shop anymore so I use the fence post on the end of my breaker bar thru the wheel.:cheesy:
 

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toxicavenger said:
I hope you have a nut behind your wheel cap because that is the nut that holds your half axle in. Josdek that is the way I have always removed the nut on a car unless I had my impact up and running. Which now I don't work in a shop anymore so I use the fence post on the end of my breaker bar thru the wheel.:cheesy:
hah!

I understand the wheel hub was redesigned with the 2002 facelift.

Maybe it looked different on my 2001? (this is the car I've had the wheels off more often.
 
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