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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well after a bit off messing about it's finally installed, with the battery temporarily relocated behind the drivers seat (until i get some longer cable to run into the boot).

My APC's playing up i think, but i did get 1 bar of boost driving down the road without really trying (before i unplugged the solenoid control valve)and it's spooling up a bit quicker, hopefully in a week or so i'll have my modded APC fitted can give the car a proper drive.

A few pic's.........
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3033
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3036
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3035
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3034
 

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Very very nice work there Si (except the battery, but you know that ;) ), seems like you are making the most of your welder!

Daniel.
 

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Did you really make that yourself?

It looks to good to be a first effort, very impressed with your bending skills, did you use the jack or your third eye;)

how did you weld it together, Arc?

Big question, does it sound different? did you feel any more puff!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
downpipe

Call me Delia.....here's the recipe!


1*Exhaust Flange, 1* 2-2.5" converter section, 1*90 degree bend, 2* 45 degree bend........that's it, that's why i did a 2.5" one, loads simpler, the rest of the zorst just clamps into the bottom of it just infront of the driveshaft. All i had to do was weld a small section of 2.5" stst to the mid box section (after i'd removed the mid box) with a few angeled bits to get it pointing the right way.


Mig welded using 0.8mm stst wire & argon.

Bought bends, not my own.

Rust is for that stealth look:cheesy: I've managed to get most of it on the body work sorted, just have'nt turned my attention to the engine bay or the underside, it's all surface rust on there, i did have a go at it when the engine was out, but that was more of a cleaning operation that restoration.

As for the noise, without the mid box it's a bit more Curt Kobain...throatier garge, not too noisy though, you get a little bit more pop n borble when you come off the throttle, that's pretty low key though. You can hear the turbo spooling a bit more too.

Only prob is i'm back to blowing cuffs off the intercooler pipework again, i went to overtake someone and the car went pop, i'd blown the pipe off the throttle housing, need to get that sorted as it can't take a bar! I'm only running 0.55bar at the mo as i've disconnected the solenoid control valve.
 

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si

does the battery DEFINATELY not fit still in the stock place, or is it just mooved to avoid additional heat?

G
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Battery

No room at the inn for the battery, there's only about 0.5" between the downpipe and the side of the engine bay. I think if you go for an FMIC you can fit the battery tray on the other side, it will bolt in where the standard IC fits, so that's another option, i've fitted a open air filter there though so had to move the battery out of the engine bay altogether.
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2489

I used some 200amp jump cables as a temporary measure, bought 2 of the connectors/terminals to bolt them to the battery then just twisted the other end into the old battery terminals and put a butane heater on it until it was hot enough to melt loads of solder into it. The car starts fine and i kept on checking the cable to make sure that it was'nt getting hot. I've seen some welding cable which i'm going to buy, i think it's about 250-300amp and about 5m long, i think you'll need atleast 5m for possi and earth, i used 2 3m jump cables that i had spare, that's as far as i could get the battery on 3m.

FMIC & wide angle downpipe are definitely well worth the investement, the intercooler cost me zilch (apart from weld wire, gas & other bits) as i had both from other cars, pipework for the intercooler was about £60-70 and the downpipe cost a grand total of £71. Not sure if you could get the equivilent gains from spending £140 on shop bought items.
 

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looking good Si :cool:


biggest gain on a C900 is to delete the cast elbow on the turbo & fit a FMIC ;)

Paul

_________________________________________
Sleeper baby, no show & all GO........................
 

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Youre doing well Si! Is it getting easier to get tidy welds between the pipe sections now? You've had enough practice! :)

I've just painted the engine bay on the 99gl with black hammerite. Looks a lot tidier than the rust and was a lot easier than the engine our respray i did of the engine bay on the 99T.
Just pressure wash it a few times, wire brush any loose bits and youre good to slap the hammerite on! You can also work right up to any oily/dirty parts (like the bars underneath) and you can't tell it isnt hammerite :lol:
 

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Si the rust looks bad? you should take care of that and i should be doing the same.

Is this hammerite a rust inhibitor? or just a cover?

isnt it best to grind the rust off and get to bare metal before painting?

I hate rust!
 

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You must have used hammerite! Its just a really thick heavy duty paint that goes well over rust. (it sticks better to rust than to a smooth surface!)

It made my engine bay look much tidier!


Its also good because if it needs another coat next year, all you need to do is clean the dirt off, wire brush any loose bits off and you can give it another coat to tidy it up. It doesnt get rust hidden underneath it like normal paint or underseal.

POR15 was also mentioned earlier. That is a lot like hammerite, but more expensive (in the UK atleast - and mail order only when hammerite is available easily). It dries harder than hammerite (its like a hardener that you would use with fibre glass!) and appaerntly does some clever stuff where you can even use it when it is very humid and wet and the water comes to the surface as it dries.
 

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one of the things I like most about the POR 15 is that is absolutely will not chip. once it's on rusty metal that's not flaking off it's there for the duration of the metals life. No air or water can get under it. topcoat is required for anything exposed to sunlight but for an engine compartment or the underside of the car it can just be brushed on and left alone.
 

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Sounds good to me, my engine bay has some rust spots and alot of rust on the front tow hooks, its not structural but one day it could be if i do nothing, i was the 900 was made of stainless steel:cheesy:

Sorry to bump the thread Si.

could you not just paint the down pipe in some kind of heat resistant paint if you want to tidy it up? i did that on my down pipe and it looks really nice and new now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Rust inhibitor

I think i'm probably going to invest in some of that POR stuff, i've found a UK distributer, i've got some black hammerite, it's on the list just hav'nt got round to it yet! Grinding the rust off all the seams on the underside is also another fun job on the list:cheesy: .

Went for another spin last night with the APC plugged in, first bit of open road i put my foot down, boost went waaaaaay up and back down then the car started acting funny, missing a beat every few seconds so i pulled over, figured i'd blown a cuff again, nope they were all fine, could'nt see and problems but i could hear a tckkkk every few seconds when the car was missing a beat, then i noticed a spark jumping from the HT lead to the cylinder head on no 1:confused: , unpulgged the APC solenoid again and it was fine, ran OK with no missed beats. I've swapped the cable over this morning but did'nt plug the APC back in, it has'nt started doing it again.

I'm going to pick up some longer cable today for the battery but i think i'm going to earth it in the boot and run a cable to the engine bay aswell, that way i can be sure it's earthing properly.

All good fun:roll: .

I'm going to wrap the downpipe, there's a shed load of heat comming off it and it runs within about 1 1/2" of the driveshaft boot, so i wanna restrict the amount of heat that is exposed to.

On the welding side, i've picked up a few more tricks like having a ladle & bucket of water, every 2-3cm i weld i then cool, also my grinding is getting loads more accurate, the better you line up the 2 sections the easier it is to weld together. Also getting better runs aswell, discovered that if you have your face about as close as possible you can get much nicer welds. One thing important i did learn the other day, don't weld in ripped jeans, i've still got a bloody great sunburn mark on one of my knee's:eek: .
 

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little hot blobs of weld are fun when they jump down the back of your shoe - can result in rapid acceleration of body vertically upwards:eek: , only brought to a stop when you smack ones bonce on the floor of your car:cry:

G
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Battery relocation

Just picked up 10m of ohhhhooo 400amp cable:cheesy: to get the battery permenantly fixed in the boot. Will be removing it from behind the drivers seat tonight:D .

I'm going to run a few extra earth cables off the - side to make sure it's all earthing properly, probably will also add an extra earth from the engine to the body aswell, just to be sure.

Just got to decide whether to attempt replacing the inner & outer drive shaft boots this weekend or not...........Don't want to break my new rule of not working on the car within a week of having something lined up!
 

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drum n bass eh si?:eek:

ah well, may have taste in auto's, but i guess it cant be reflected through all aspects of life:lol:

more of a breaks n prog house boy myself:cheesy:
G
 

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Drum and Bass has lots its way a little because of all the new styles, i kind of like the best of all music styles, there is great D&B and rubbish D&B, i like alot of industrial trans like Sprilliance, some of Schiller and lots of LTJ Bukem but not of his stuff is good.

We just installed a whole studio system for a the Rezurrection that do a lot of trans and HC stuff in Scotland, it sounds crap in most tiny escort boy racer systems but coming out of 20 infrawoofers its just scarey! some goes for Shy Fx
 

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Shad
at the risk of straying slighty off topic:eek: - what truth is there in these mystical systems that can induce..... ahem, "trouser incidents" among the clubbing d&b fraternity, on acount of certain volumes, frequencies and the like?

.... think its a load of crap myself:lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Natural vibrating frequency

Shy FX n T-power - F'ing A! that's in my car at the mo constantly being listened to:cheesy: . As for having movement:lol: , all you gotta do is hit the right bass note thats equal to the natural vibrating frequency of their uhum colon:cheesy: and bobs yer uncle, pebble dashed pants.

Personnaly i find the bass usually hits you in the chest/upper abdomen.
 
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