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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I drove to the store last night, which is about 2 minutes from home and when i came back out my car to leave i couldn't get the car to go. In Neutral it is fine and idles well. if i give it very little gas it revs up, but when i give it more it rocks and shuts off. This is all while in "N" if i put in gear it shuts off as soon as i give gas and i have to roll back in the parking spot.

I went to check out the car this morning, last night it was to dark to mess with it. I noticed the distributor has some wires coming out the side of it and when i moved them while the car was running it seemed to rev the engine a bit. but if i moved them to much the engine dies out. What do i need to replace? the distributor? the coil? I have some pics below to point out the problem.

"NOTE: the wires do have exposure on them like they have been slightly cut!"




 

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If you've got bared wires I'd start small and try to carefully insulate them with a wrap of electrical tape to see if that changes anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you've got bared wires I'd start small and try to carefully insulate them with a wrap of electrical tape to see if that changes anything.

it seems i'd have to get inside the distributor to get the wires. is this a difficult job, i have all tools needed.

DO you know what that wire is?
 

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Yeah, it's the wires to the Hall Effect sensor that connects to the ignition amplifier. Without the signal from the sensor, it will not produce a spark at the right time.

The wires get cut when the black plastic wire carrier perishes, and lets the wire get caught by the rotating disc in the distributor. The disc has apertures which has sharp edges.

It's not an easy job replacing the wires as it requires disassembly of the distributor. It's easier just to replace the whole distributor with a working one.

What I'd do is examine the frays, tape it up, and most importantly, secure the black plastic wire carrier back onto the distributor body.

This is what I did to secure mine with some epoxy cement, and a wire reinforcement secured by the distributor body screws.

 

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The socket has broken off from the distributor. This is a common problem with this distributor and most people clean the parts up and glue it back with an epoxy adhesive like JB Weld. The wires may have worn through the insulation causing your ignition problem. First thing to do is remove the brown distributor cap. It is held on with two clips. This will give you better access to the socket. Remove the plug from the socket by pushing down the little wire clip on the plug which should allow you to pull them apart. Clean all the parts up with a solvent. If you feel competent it would be easier to remove the distributor to repair it, marking it's position before removal. It should look like this one which is also glues on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, it's the wires to the Hall Effect sensor that connects to the ignition amplifier. Without the signal from the sensor, it will not produce a spark at the right time.

The wires get cut when the black plastic wire carrier perishes, and lets the wire get caught by the rotating disc in the distributor. The disc has apertures which has sharp edges.

It's not an easy job replacing the wires as it requires disassembly of the distributor. It's easier just to replace the whole distributor with a working one.

What I'd do is examine the frays, tape it up, and most importantly, secure the black plastic wire carrier back onto the distributor body.

This is what I did to secure mine with some epoxy cement...


;ol;;ol;Exactly what i needed to know. Thanks! I'll go pick up some epoxy and tools to fix the wires, ill report back if i run into any more problems.
 

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Beat you to it, Paul... :p But it's good to know you arrived at the same suggestion.

If you still have intermittent problems, check the wires from the main wiring loom to the black connector with the rubber shroud. Repeated tugging caused mine to fray at the connector joint. Peal back the shroud to check that it's secure. The angle the wiring enters the connector was causing stress on the joints and it just broke off eventually.
 

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As an exercise I decided to attempt to modify a broken dizzy plug to see if it could be set further back into the dizzy body by cutting slots into the sides of the socket so it could be trapped by the casing and held firmly in position. As this was an old spare dizzy it didn't really matter if I buggered it up. Anyway it works as you can see. As a precaution I epoxied the three wires so they pointed down to avoid them contacting the shutter wheel. Well, it works, as you can see for yourself. It actually seems more secure than original.


 

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That gold looking plastic cap is the original. Bosch now makes them black.
That is not the top cover which is black, but the shroud for the three hall effect wires to protect them from damage. I've never seen these black, even on new ones.
 

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peva, so that plug body now sits slightly inboard from the original position? Trying to understand exactly what you did because it looks as if it should have been that way all along... As usual, your fixes would make the factory engineers jealous!
 

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peva, so that plug body now sits slightly inboard from the original position? Trying to understand exactly what you did because it looks as if it should have been that way all along... As usual, your fixes would make the factory engineers jealous!
Yes, as you say it sits inboard from the original position. The only point of caution is that the hall sensor wires now sit closer to the shutter wheel and you should take measures to protect them. As I said above, I epoxied mine down clear of danger.
 
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