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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've got another thread that basically outlines a ton of random issues I am having but I thought maybe if I dissect it I may get some input.

Car was starting and running perfect.
Drove for about 20 miles.
Shut car off, when I went to restart battery was very low.
A couple tries to start and it was almost completely dead.
Battery was super old so it seemed clear it was just it's time to go.
Charging system had previously tested good so I don't expect that.

Replaced with brand new battery.

Now no crank/what appears to be low power condition.

With key to "on" the dash lights up momentarily but then drop out.

With key to "start" there is no response from the starter, no click.
When key returns to "On", dash light come back on momentarily.

Tech2 shows good voltage at battery.

No DTCs

Twice shows good, immobilizer is not activated,
limp mode solenoid is not on
Connections at battery are clean and in new condition.

What am I missing?
 

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to me that sounds like a bad alternator. If the alternator is bad enough the car won't even start. That low battery could have been caused by the car not charging properly. The only other option would be the immobilizer which you've already checked or something to do with Beyond * which is what I'm dealing with right now but I think that goes back to the immobilizer to and the alarm which I also believe goes back to the immobilizer but I'm not 100% sure on those two. But from what I read the only thing in the car that can shut it down other than an actual mechanical condition or electrical condition is the immobilizer. Unless I'm missing something that sounds an awful lot like a bad alternator though.
 

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I should have read through the post before I put it on cuz I was dictating but where it says Beyond it was supposed to say OnStar. My apologies. I actually have a thread up right now. I'll put a link in here with a no-start condition that's caused by I believe the immobilizer. having to do with the alarm or the OnStar. I've got to figure out which or both.
 

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I know the direct ignitions on these cars go bad all the time and can cause starting issues. How old is your ignition cassette. It still wouldn't play into the dead battery unless you just turned it over too long and ran the battery down just a thought. Hopefully your problem is a straightforward one. I always seem to get the ones that are strange and really complicated . I could use a straightforward one.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
to me that sounds like a bad alternator. If the alternator is bad enough the car won't even start. That low battery could have been caused by the car not charging properly. The only other option would be the immobilizer which you've already checked or something to do with Beyond * which is what I'm dealing with right now but I think that goes back to the immobilizer to and the alarm which I also believe goes back to the immobilizer but I'm not 100% sure on those two. But from what I read the only thing in the car that can shut it down other than an actual mechanical condition or electrical condition is the immobilizer. Unless I'm missing something that sounds an awful lot like a bad alternator though.

Well, the charging system had tested good, initially.
Not to say that it couldn't have crapped out, since.

Thing is, I'm not even getting power to the starter when i go to start it so it's not even cranking over with a brand new battery.
That and, it was running/starting/idling every time before that.

Of course I can't even start it now so I can't test the charging system again without taking something apart.

I'm potentially leaning towards maybe an ignition switch issue, maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'd have to say "fortunately" mine doesn't have OnStar, one less element to have to worry about!
 

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I'm glad you don't have the OnStar issue to deal with no power to the starter is unusual with a new battery because the battery harness goes right from that battery to the starter so I'm agreeing with you that if you got no power at the starter with a brand new battery something more has to be going on than the alternator. Well I guess you got a complicated one over there too I wish you luck man I hope you figure it out if I think of anything out lay it on you.
 

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Can you copy a link to your other thread and put it in this thread so I can see what all your other issues were and just read through it
 

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check the simpler things first?

bad ground? where do these cars have a main grounding strap to the frame? some of our other swedish cars used to get corrosion built up on the main ground point where a thick wire was bolted to the frame. others used to get corrosion build up where the main fuse block was grounded.

relay? starter relay?

wish i had more experience to share with you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
check the simpler things first?

bad ground? where do these cars have a main grounding strap to the frame? some of our other swedish cars used to get corrosion built up on the main ground point where a thick wire was bolted to the frame. others used to get corrosion build up where the main fuse block was grounded.

relay? starter relay?

wish i had more experience to share with you.
Yeah ground was one of the first things I was thinking when there was just "some" power.
I'll have to go back and check that all, again.
I just did everything from above and today in the rain.
I need to get under it I think to really get a good look at everything and go thorough WIS again for grounding points.

Today the IHU actually came on for a second with "key not recognized" so I'm going to take the little antenna off and make sure nothing is jacked up in there.
I'm also leaning towards possible ignition switch since that's a major pass thru point, and it seemed fine, before.


Thanks for chiming in. Any input is greatly appreciated.
 

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For me when I was having an annoying no crank / no start and no luck by jumping the relay to the starter, all I did was crawl underneath the car and spray the **** out of the starter connections with either WD40 or contact cleaner (can't remember) and scrub the connections with a tiny contact brush. Then I tapped the starter a few times with a rubber mallet

This fixed my starting issues instantly and it continued to start until the day it died. Not sure if this will be of any help but it can't hurt. I do feel like my case was way too easy and I don't really get how I fixed anything because I didn't loosen the connections, just scrubbed the outside of them
 

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Discussion Starter #14
For me when I was having an annoying no crank / no start and no luck by jumping the relay to the starter, all I did was crawl underneath the car and spray the **** out of the starter connections with either WD40 or contact cleaner (can't remember) and scrub the connections with a tiny contact brush. Then I tapped the starter a few times with a rubber mallet

This fixed my starting issues instantly and it continued to start until the day it died. Not sure if this will be of any help but it can't hurt. I do feel like my case was way too easy and I don't really get how I fixed anything because I didn't loosen the connections, just scrubbed the outside of them

Oh man, I wish it could be that easy!
I just replaced the transmission so the connections on the starter are tidy and tight.
I am really leaning towards an ignition switch issue.
Haven't had a chance to mess with it again today but possibly, hopefully, later.
 

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Oh man, I wish it could be that easy!
I just replaced the transmission so the connections on the starter are tidy and tight.
I am really leaning towards an ignition switch issue.
Haven't had a chance to mess with it again today but possibly, hopefully, later.
If it's an ignition issue then you can bypass it by jumping the starter relay under the driver's footwell

Connect pins 30 and 87 with a couple male spade connectors and that should engage the starter (with the key in of course)

Wire in a push button if you don't feel like fixing any ignition components
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If it's an ignition issue then you can bypass it by jumping the starter relay under the driver's footwell

Connect pins 30 and 87 with a couple male spade connectors and that should engage the starter (with the key in of course)

Wire in a push button if you don't feel like fixing any ignition components
Ah yeah of course. Well, that would get power to the starter but I still wouldn't have power at my gauges and everything.

Still, that might be a good starting point to start confirming it's an ignition switch issue.
 

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Ah yeah of course. Well, that would get power to the starter but I still wouldn't have power at my gauges and everything.

Still, that might be a good starting point to start confirming it's an ignition switch issue.
The interior doesn't turn on when you turn the key? Oh that's definitely strange then. I don't think I would recommend trying to power the starter if the switched power isn't working
 

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Just a thought because I just replace the transmission to. When you're under the car and you're putting in that starter at the rear of the transmission on top there's a wire and a connector it just sits right above where the transmission is going to meet up I'm not even sure what it is but I know when I put my transmission in it was trying to get stuck between the transmission and the motor. I had to be extra careful to get it out of the way before I tightened up all the bolts all the way otherwise it would have been caught in there probably crimped. The only reason I mention it is because if your car was cranking fine before the transmission change and now it won't you got to assume something didn't get put back right during the transmission change. There's a small ground wire that comes off the side of the transmission and goes up to the frame near the driver wheel well when you put the transmission back did you reconnect that ground wire. I'm just spitballing here. And of course the main ground that comes off of the transmission mount the Triangular one in front make sure that one's right. It could be a ground issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The interior doesn't turn on when you turn the key? Oh that's definitely strange then. I don't think I would recommend trying to power the starter if the switched power isn't working
Yeah, it's intermittent.
I actually got a "key not recognized" and then it dropped out.
It was running fine before this battery thing, I think I may have just gotten overzealous trying to start it when the battery died.

Might have possibly shoot the antenna loose, but it really sounds like the ignition switch itself at this point.
Hopefully get some time this weekend to test my theory.

Just a thought because I just replace the transmission to. When you're under the car and you're putting in that starter at the rear of the transmission on top there's a wire and a connector it just sits right above where the transmission is going to meet up I'm not even sure what it is but I know when I put my transmission in it was trying to get stuck between the transmission and the motor. I had to be extra careful to get it out of the way before I tightened up all the bolts all the way otherwise it would have been caught in there probably crimped. The only reason I mention it is because if your car was cranking fine before the transmission change and now it won't you got to assume something didn't get put back right during the transmission change. There's a small ground wire that comes off the side of the transmission and goes up to the frame near the driver wheel well when you put the transmission back did you reconnect that ground wire. I'm just spitballing here. And of course the main ground that comes off of the transmission mount the Triangular one in front make sure that one's right. It could be a ground issue.
Yeah thing is, I drove it probably 30 miles since the trans was back in.. :/

I am really leaning towards ignition switch at this point, I'm going to try and make time to take it apart and test it in the next couple days.
 

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I'm hesitant to jump in with possibly 'red herring' information, BUT I'd really like to see you get it going, so I'll take the risk of suggesting that you re-re-check the grounds. The ground wire fastened onto the thermostat housing is one example notorious for not getting tight enough - though I don't know how its absence affects the starting circuits.

The ignition switch DOES sound very plausible - I had to replace the switch portion on our 1999 SE at 226K miles. It was easier to diagnose, because the car would sometimes start and sometimes not, depending on how the key was held. The momentary "key not recognized" showed up too.

Search on "testing ignition switch" on this board and on saab net, to get advice on best points to test power.

If you do have to replace the ignition switch, be very careful with the transmission shift cable. I broke the cable at a weak spot where it passes through the one bulkhead. This can be avoided by following all the WIS steps that some mechanics are tempted to skip, and I was part of that group.
 
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