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Discussion Starter #1
My dash is all cracked up a lot. I live in Arizona so its so hot here its crazy but no Rust. I found a great condition dash in a yard from back east with like 1 small crack. I want to take it off that car and install it on mine. What do I need to look out for and how tough is it of a job?
 

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Not tough at all, just be patient, take your time, and mark everything/ take pictures so you don't have to try and figure how it goes back together.
 

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It's not an overly difficult job, just a little time consuming.

-Take out the center console/ashtray (4 side screws, 2 screws under "accordian" cover in front of the gear selector, and one 10mm bolt behind the ashtray)
-locate and remove 4 long vertical screws on the bottom of the edge of the dash, these hold the switch/dash facia panel.
-Unplug and mark all connectors for everything
-take out both dash speakers (2 small torx screws each)
-remove 1 dash retaining screw visible when the speakers are out on both sides
-Remove 2 screws under the glove box door
-Remove A-pillar covers (pop out the centers of all 4 black round plastic retainers)
-Pull the dash out a bit and unplug the wires to the glove box light and switch
-remove the dash

When you put the dash back, there is an aligning "bar" at the rear in the center of bottom of the windshield. Make sure it slides into the slot on the underside of the dash.

Make sure you keep all 4 facia screws organized, they are all different, and only go back in one place.


When you put the dash facia back in, don't forget to re-connect the metal rod that goes from the heater control knob to the valve on the heater core at the firewall.

Good luck!
-Rob
 

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RM '92 SPG said:
Make sure you keep all 4 facia screws organized, they are all different, and only go back in one place.
They're actually marked numerically... There's a number of little grooves on each, 1-2-3-4 from door to centre. I'm sure I've seen absolute lengths quoted, too.

It's well worth making sure that the "drinking straw" guides for the screws are in place - if their fixing lugs are broken, glue 'em back.
 

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TooMany2cvs said:
They're actually marked numerically... There's a number of little grooves on each, 1-2-3-4 from door to centre. I'm sure I've seen absolute lengths quoted, too.

It's well worth making sure that the "drinking straw" guides for the screws are in place - if their fixing lugs are broken, glue 'em back.
as to the fascia screws - my c900 MY1993 has marked them with 0, I, II, III circles horizontally, but they do not match the fascia in that order. I went several times around that but no - it`s not correct to fit them in that order ...

On my MY 1989 it does fit as per markings though ...

I can`t believe that screws could be marked incorrectly :roll:
- first has no marks, second has one circle, third two circles and forth 3 circles but they do not fit in that order
 

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Can you do me a favour and take a pic of the wiring that goes into the selector that moves the vents to different positions... I hope I'm explaning that right.
I took the wiring off mine and can't remember how it goes back together again :nono;
 

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aerobar900 said:
Can you do me a favour and take a pic of the wiring that goes into the selector that moves the vents to different positions... I hope I'm explaning that right.
I took the wiring off mine and can't remember how it goes back together again :nono;
A search for "dial" and "wire" brought up
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43062
 

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You don't need to touch the A-pillar covers.
There are no exceptions to the dash panel screws being in numbered order. Sometimes they get put together wrong and the dash pad adapts to the new shape, thus making it seem as though the order is wrong.
 

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I have done this job many times, and all of the above is excellent advise. I always tape the dash screws to masking tape so i am sure they will go back in the same order. They all look so close that it is almost impossable to keep them in the right order. The only other thing I would caution about is the plastic is now quite fragile, especially in a south west car. If you tug on something and it does not move, there is still a fastener attatched somewhere. BE CAREFULL, IF YOU DO MORE THAN A GENTLE TUG, IT WILL BREAK!

I read somewhere, perhaps it was this forum, that people are removing their dashboards and having them sprayed with a thin layer of two part epoxy spray on truck bed coating. WHat an excellent idea. I purchased a dash pad cover from state of nine and installed it. http://www.stateofnine.com/page/stateofnine/PROD/DashCover
It looked great for a few years, but now it too is cracking. I think I will find one from a wrecking yard and try the bed liner idea next. Be patient, it really s not that hard if YOU TAKE YOUR TIME AND USE PATIENCE. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thats the hardest thing for me. I have little patience and I tend to rush things. I know it is a band combo mixed with 20 year old cars but I am learning. Thanks for the advise. Oh When I did the heater core I havent put the lower panel back on. So Im guessing that its not that bad to take the dash out now. I will do a search on the truck bed liner tonight
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I finally did it. I took out the dash and put a new (old) one in. it only has a couple of cracks and was only 20 bucks. I cant believe how easy it was to change. The hardest thing which I skipped was plugging in the black wire to glove box. I gave up after an hour or trying to connect it. Oh well.
 

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How did you get the shaft from the temperature dial to the part that actually makes the changes back in? Mine fell out and I cannot get the damned thing back together...


PLEASE HELP ME!!!
 

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Settle down... a few deep breaths, try again. You do still have the retaining clips at both ends of the rod, right?
 

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The old "one clip conundrum". I usually clip the heater valve end and worry about the dash panel side later.
 

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dasander said:
I read somewhere, perhaps it was this forum, that people are removing their dashboards and having them sprayed with a thin layer of two part epoxy spray on truck bed coating. WHat an excellent idea.
The idea is probably that the spray-on coating will form a new surface over the old vinyl but also fill in any existing cracks going down in the foam that's formed around the steel structure that's embedded inside the foam to give the dash it's structural rigidity.

Anyone have before and after pics of doing this to a c900 dash?

Craig.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
im still experimenting. I tried udercoating which is a rubberized paint/filler. but didnt work so well. need to strip it off and try something else. someone makes a actual repair kit for the cracks. you fill the cracks with epoxy and repaint. some sort of vinyl repair kit
 
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