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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the middle of swapping the front suspension.

As I am tightening the T-55 bolt there is a jolt as the torque is getting right.

Turns out the insert on the bottom of the stanchion arm separated. It is not stripped per se but it does not seem safe. It looks like the insert supported the threaded portion of the arm.

Now - either I need to source another arm tomorrow, or the car will be laid up for another week. UGH.

I may be able to source one from a recycler. Should I just cave in an let it sit for a new part or go with a used part?
 

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maybe I can help.....

I just replaced my bushings with poly from GS. I had to remove the threaded insert in the bottom of the stanchion arm to make room for the larger 5/8 bolt with the kit. I have the inserts if they would help you. Let me know.
 

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fantastic :cheesy: this is what saab central should be about.

helping people, i think some members have forgotten this ;)

nice one johnnie'
 

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Totally agree boxman..

Jonnieflash,

I replaced all my bushings with GS's ones are they have been well worth it.
my tech said that they were a pain to get out but the difference in night and day

al
 

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al aero said:
Totally agree boxman..

Jonnieflash,

I replaced all my bushings with GS's ones are they have been well worth it.
my tech said that they were a pain to get out but the difference in night and day

al
do you really think it was worth it? i am might have to replace mine soon and wasnt sure if i should get gs or stock. how do they feel?
 

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I am putting in a new set of control arms and stanchion arms tonight, if you need one, let me know.

I should have them taken care of tonight hoping without any problems
 

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JONNY72888 2nd said:
do you really think it was worth it? i am might have to replace mine soon and wasnt sure if i should get gs or stock. how do they feel?
I installed mine with the full koni setup from GS, like i said the difference is light and day, the car feels so much more capable now, much tighter going threw corners, well worth it in my opinion

al
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well I decided to go with used. Simply because I couldn't stand letting the car sit until after new years.

Even if I got an order in - good luck getting shipping this week. Bought the stanchion arm for $53 at the local recycler.

Finally finished the install. Put in the GS bushings, the complete Koni Kit springs and inserts.

The rear was a piece of cake. The front ... Man what a project.

It took me two full days - more if you include the trips to the parts store and recycler.

I can really feel the difference - but it is only one day. I will post more after a while.

Thanks for the input guys.
 

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What am I missing here?
The stanchion arm goes from the rocker-pannel(ish), where a bolt passes through and bolts into the chassis, and the liquid filled bushing the bolt passes through to bolt right to the lower control arm.

there's two bolts, no? what collar did you break?


I ask, because i'm slated to do this... SOON
 

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The bolt that goes through the lower control arm outer large bushing threads into the bottom 'o' of the stanchion arm. That is the only place that threads exist for the bolt; top 'o' of the stanchion arm has nothing, nor does the hole through the bushing;

I'm assuming he broke the lower end 'o' of the arm, thus, having no threads for the bolt to catch....

-bny
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
exactly as brewtide describes.

The stanchion arm runs from the rearmost suspension point on an angle forward to the oil filled bushing. In stock form, a t-55 bolt runs through the top of the arm through the bushing and tightens on threads in an insert in the lower portion of the arm.

The "threads" are in a steel insert in the aluminium arm structure. If you tighten too tight the insert may pull out. That is what happened in my case. It is not stripped per se. You can still tighten the bolt, but the bolt will eventually work free as the remainder of the insert wiggles back and forth.

I understand that certain kits have a complete new structure which requires the insert to be removed and replaced by a nut and bolt.

If you are replacing the bushings be certain which style setup you have. The GS kit comes with directions to torque to 100 ft/lbs. You must have the replacement nut and bolt to do this. The stock insert collapsed before I got to that point. I pulled the WIS and it said something like 68ft/lbs (memory) Double check.

GS site mentions popping with the stock bolts and poly bushings. So far I have not noticed anything untoward.
 
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