SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 20 of 53 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello, i need to replace both driver and passenger side front CV Axles, WIS wasnt giving me much luck. Anyone know of a decent tutorial with the specifics? I dont want to mess anything up as this thing is already falling apart. Its a 1994 900s, 5 spd 2.3 L nonturbo

The tutorial i seen on platonoff had me completely dismantling the Axle, is this needed if i purchased brand news ones and dont care about repairing the old one?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,380 Posts
NG900 and 9-3 are the same AFAIR. Have you downloaded the WIS? You can use Mort's link or the downloaded version (my preference).

What's wrong with your axles? Do you need the inners too?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,276 Posts
You don't need to dismantle the axle if you purchase new ones. A quick look at RockAuto shows that both sides are available new or remanufactured for both sides for the 2.3 liter engine. New ones aren't always recommended around here, but since you have a non-turbo that doesn't put out a ton of power, you'd more than likely be fine with one of those.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
NG900 and 9-3 are the same AFAIR. Have you downloaded the WIS? You can use Mort's link or the downloaded version (my preference).

What's wrong with your axles? Do you need the inners too?
the process from the 9-3 to the 900 is similar but not the same. The 9-3 seems a lot simpler. Im stuck on how to remove the ball join part. I dont want to mess anything up.
Ive been running the car for 2 years with no boot on either side. They have been making a lot of noise recently and i just went ahead and bought the whole axle for both sides, the price wasnt bad. I dont even want to think about the drivers side.. apparently the trans fluid can leak out or something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,276 Posts
The 900 and 9-3 are identical as far as the driveshafts go except for one difference. On the passenger's side on the 9-3, you need to clip the inner boot clamp and separate the CV axle from the companion shaft. On the 900, they just pull apart, although a slide hammer and CV axle puller really help. In my opinion, the 900 is the simpler of the two.

The ball joint is a pain because there's so little clearance between the top of the ball joint and the CV joint. A tool like this is what should be used:


The problem is that even with that, you'll have to grind down upper part so it's thin enough to slip between the CV joint and the top of the threaded shaft on the ball joint. I have one, and that's what I had to do.

This one looks like a little thinner, and could possibly fit without grinding, but without someone trying it, I could only guess.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,128 Posts
I had the second one, it needed to be modified. It lasted about seven ball joints then cracked from being weakened. Then I bought another one, more similar to the first. I read somewhere the one from Harbor Freight works out of the box, but I'm dubious.

I suspect if you're patient, and up for replacing the LCAs at the same time, you could hacksaw off the exposed threads on the stud, remove the nut, and then saw off more threads until an OTS separator fit. As long as there is ~1/2" of thread, there should be enough to pop it off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
The 900 and 9-3 are identical as far as the driveshafts go except for one difference. On the passenger's side on the 9-3, you need to clip the inner boot clamp and separate the CV axle from the companion shaft. On the 900, they just pull apart, although a slide hammer and CV axle puller really help. In my opinion, the 900 is the simpler of the two.

The ball joint is a pain because there's so little clearance between the top of the ball joint and the CV joint. A tool like this is what should be used:


The problem is that even with that, you'll have to grind down upper part so it's thin enough to slip between the CV joint and the top of the threaded shaft on the ball joint. I have one, and that's what I had to do.

This one looks like a little thinner, and could possibly fit without grinding, but without someone trying it, I could only guess.

Thanks a lot!, im fairly new to working on cars, this saab was my first car. And im getting really frustrated as the manuals listed above seem to make it more complicated. Are you sure i absolutely need the tool for the ball joint? And youre telling me i have to grind something??(edit i now see that you meant to grind the tool) Exactly what im worried about, i dont want to mess it up and be screwed. None of the mechanics near me want to even work on the car. i am flat broke after buying this part and a few others... i need the car to get to work. Im thinking about just putting everything back together and saying screw it and just driving with janky axles

Also, which tutorial should i follow ? the one on platonoff.com or the one through WIS? Im just beyond confused with what process to take because they differ a bit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,276 Posts
You can follow part of the Platonoff procedure. If you're looking at this one:


just follow the steps for the first three pictures, and then pull the entire CV axle out of the car. Once that's out, tap the new one in, and then reassemble everything.

Whenever I have to remove a CV axle on these cars, I go down to Autozone and rent a slide hammer and a CV axle removal tool, which looks like this:


You hook that behind the inner CV joint, thread the slide hammer onto it, and then yank the sliding part of the slide hammer back a few times. That will jolt the axle free.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
You can follow part of the Platonoff procedure. If you're looking at this one:


just follow the steps for the first three pictures, and then pull the entire CV axle out of the car. Once that's out, tap the new one in, and then reassemble everything.

Whenever I have to remove a CV axle on these cars, I go down to Autozone and rent a slide hammer and a CV axle removal tool, which looks like this:


You hook that behind the inner CV joint, thread the slide hammer onto it, and then yank the sliding part of the slide hammer back a few times. That will jolt the axle free.
thanks for the reply, this axle thing has me up all night. when it tells me "Now you can choose to either separate the ball joint or unbolt the control arm from the subframe. I find the control arm to be easier." Is this the 2 bolts towards the center of the car? Or the 2 that are more near the rotor side
If you could add me on discord to give me 1 or 2 tips that would be cool. Corp#0155

edit, realized i misread part of your response, omitted a few things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,276 Posts
He was replacing the boots on his axle, which is why he disassembled it. If you're replacing the entire axle, as the vast majority of people do, then you stop after the third picture and pull the entire axle out of the car. I replaced the boots once, just because it was cheaper and I had a bunch of time, but it was not worth it, and I've never done it since. The control arm bolts to the subframe with just a single bolt. Follow the control arm to the subframe (the control arm is the aluminum arm with the ball joint in it), and you can see where it goes in. It takes an 18 or 19mm socket, if I remember right, and there's a hole in the subframe that you get to it through.

I'm not on Discord, so I'm not sure how that all works.

These cars have an odd front lower suspension setup. It's composed of two arms, a control arm and what Saab calls a stanchion arm. When someone refers to the control arm, it's this:

278594


The vertical hole in the center with the huge bushing is what the stanchion arm bolts to. The horizontal hole on the end is where it connects to the subframe.

The stanchion arm is this thing:

278595



It straddles the control arm, and then connects to the subframe behind the control arm. The metal sleeves shown in the picture go through the large round bushing and act as spacers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
He was replacing the boots on his axle, which is why he disassembled it. If you're replacing the entire axle, as the vast majority of people do, then you stop after the third picture and pull the entire axle out of the car. I replaced the boots once, just because it was cheaper and I had a bunch of time, but it was not worth it, and I've never done it since. The control arm bolts to the subframe with just a single bolt. Follow the control arm to the subframe (the control arm is the aluminum arm with the ball joint in it), and you can see where it goes in. It takes an 18 or 19mm socket, if I remember right, and there's a hole in the subframe that you get to it through.

I'm not on Discord, so I'm not sure how that all works.

These cars have an odd front lower suspension setup. It's composed of two arms, a control arm and what Saab calls a stanchion arm. When someone refers to the control arm, it's this:

View attachment 278594

The vertical hole in the center with the huge bushing is what the stanchion arm bolts to. The horizontal hole on the end is where it connects to the subframe.

The stanchion arm is this thing:

View attachment 278595


It straddles the control arm, and then connects to the subframe behind the control arm. The metal sleeves shown in the picture go through the large round bushing and act as spacers.
thank you a lot. I looked at where
He was replacing the boots on his axle, which is why he disassembled it. If you're replacing the entire axle, as the vast majority of people do, then you stop after the third picture and pull the entire axle out of the car. I replaced the boots once, just because it was cheaper and I had a bunch of time, but it was not worth it, and I've never done it since. The control arm bolts to the subframe with just a single bolt. Follow the control arm to the subframe (the control arm is the aluminum arm with the ball joint in it), and you can see where it goes in. It takes an 18 or 19mm socket, if I remember right, and there's a hole in the subframe that you get to it through.

I'm not on Discord, so I'm not sure how that all works.

These cars have an odd front lower suspension setup. It's composed of two arms, a control arm and what Saab calls a stanchion arm. When someone refers to the control arm, it's this:

View attachment 278594

The vertical hole in the center with the huge bushing is what the stanchion arm bolts to. The horizontal hole on the end is where it connects to the subframe.

The stanchion arm is this thing:

View attachment 278595


It straddles the control arm, and then connects to the subframe behind the control arm. The metal sleeves shown in the picture go through the large round bushing and act as spacers.
alright i think i get it, i looked at where the arms connected to the subframe and couldnt see where to unbolt them from, i appreciate you letting me know theres a hole to access it from. Thank you a lot, im gonna get out there and give a crack at it. Thank you, very much appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
So i found both bolts that needed removing. Neither one would budge, i used a 24 in breaker bar on the stanchion arm bolt and i felt like i was gonna break it, i put all i had into it with a jack handle on the end. The other bolt wouldnt budge with a smaller breaker bar that would completely fit under that car. I guess im stuck with messing with the ball joint? Also where can i find the tourqe specs for the 2 chassis bolts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
i'll probably get roasted for this but it has worked for me for a decade of working on these cars with no ill effects. to separate the lower ball joint I use a big cold chisel (mines about 3/4" wide across the tip) and wedge that in between the outer CV joint and top of the ball joint stud.

First I break the axle nut loose but only remove it a turn or two. Next unthread the ball joint nut until it is flush with the top of the stud, or a bit higher. Then knock the chisel in between the nut and bottom of the cv. This puts some force on the taper joint that we are trying to separate. then take a bigger hammer and smack the bottom of the strut assembly where the ball joint stud goes thru. it can take a few tries and you will probably knock the chisel out a few times and have to hammer it back into place but eventually the combination of force from the chisel and shock from hammering will break the joint free.

regarding the last post about removing subframe bolts. If you look closely at the Platonoff directions he does not remove the rear stanchion arm bolt, just the bolt which connects the control arm to the subframe. That will give you enough wiggle room to remove the outer end of the axle from the hub bearing. This is good because everything about that rear bolt is a nightmare.

For the control arm bolt I have used a big hammer to tap/smack the end of my 1/2 drive ratchet to get the bolt moving. this is obviously a bit sketchy to do under the car but shouldn't be a problem if you have the car properly supported.

For reinstallation the Platonoff guide for the Outer CV joint has torque specs. He also has a write up for replacing the entire front suspension assembly which has more detail about removing the suspension arms. If you haven't ready I recommend spending an hour or two looking through all the Platonoff guides relative to your car

I can take pictures of the cold chisel set up later today if you need
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
i'll probably get roasted for this but it has worked for me for a decade of working on these cars with no ill effects. to separate the lower ball joint I use a big cold chisel (mines about 3/4" wide across the tip) and wedge that in between the outer CV joint and top of the ball joint stud.

First I break the axle nut loose but only remove it a turn or two. Next unthread the ball joint nut until it is flush with the top of the stud, or a bit higher. Then knock the chisel in between the nut and bottom of the cv. This puts some force on the taper joint that we are trying to separate. then take a bigger hammer and smack the bottom of the strut assembly where the ball joint stud goes thru. it can take a few tries and you will probably knock the chisel out a few times and have to hammer it back into place but eventually the combination of force from the chisel and shock from hammering will break the joint free.

regarding the last post about removing subframe bolts. If you look closely at the Platonoff directions he does not remove the rear stanchion arm bolt, just the bolt which connects the control arm to the subframe. That will give you enough wiggle room to remove the outer end of the axle from the hub bearing. This is good because everything about that rear bolt is a nightmare.

For the control arm bolt I have used a big hammer to tap/smack the end of my 1/2 drive ratchet to get the bolt moving. this is obviously a bit sketchy to do under the car but should be a problem if you have the car properly supported.

For reinstallation the Platonoff guide for the Outer CV joint has torque specs. He also has a write up for replacing the entire front suspension assembly which has more detail about removing the suspension arms. If you haven't ready I recommend spending an hour or two looking through all the Platonoff guides relative to your car

I can take pictures of the cold chisel set up later today if you need
Thanks for the reply. Lot of much needed info. I missed work because of this. If I'm removing the control arm bolt out of the chassis, do I also need to remove the ball joint as well? I was trying to avoid doing the ball joint. The plantoff post mentioned I have to remove the 2 subframe bolts instead of the ball joint if it's easier
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
I thought I saw that reference to Two bolts as well but now I can't find it. Going forward I recommend following the guide for the Outer CV Joint, it seems to have a bit better step by step instructions for disassembly that are glossed over in the Inner Joint guide

either way you should only have to remove the one bolt connecting the control arm to the subframe. You will also have to remove the antiroll bar link from the control arm, covered in step 5 of the Outer Joint guide, make sure to use a wrench on both sides as recommended or you will absolutely snap the threaded portion. It will make it a LOT easier to remove the brake caliper from the hub (Step 3) but not mandatory. Same goes for the tie rod end (Step 4). You definitely don't need to remove the brake disc, just be careful to keep grease off it and clean it off thoroughly once you get the axle reinstalled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Well I'm lost again, I have the subframe bolt removed but When you say remove the anti roll bar link, are you talking about the stanchion arm? That's the only thing I see with a nut and a bolt head. And the tie rod end is the part that connects to steering I'm assuming, which is telling me I have to use a gear puller? Jeremy R was saying that after step 3 of the Inner cv guide I can just pull the axle out after removing subframe bolt. This is not the case as I still can't move anything. It's like I'm trying to follow two different processes or I'm just not understanding
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
JeremyR is correct that after Step 3 of the Inner CV Guide you can remove the axle. But Steps 1 and 2 of the Inner CV Guide skips a bunch of steps that the Outer CV Guide covers, that's why I suggested you refer to the Outer CV guide going forward, its a lot more detailed about the specific things you will need to unbolt.

Sorry if I wasn't clear, the Step numbers I was referring to in my last post were from the Outer CV guide with the more detailed instructions 17.07.2005: Saab NG900 Outer CV Boot - photo.platonoff.com

from my previous post, removing the brake caliper and tie rod end is super helpful but NOT required. by removing them you just make it easier to move the strut assembly around and get the axle out and back in. I would recommend starting with removing the brake caliper (no special tools required) and see how it goes.
 
1 - 20 of 53 Posts
Top