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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Still working on getting my latest project back on the road 2000 9-3 SE Vert. Recently got the engine and trans back in and car was on the road for first time in over two years.

However, my 'good' CV axles have exploded grease from every possible place... They had no holes before, but assuming 2 years of non-use and they rotted. Have another complete set from a parts car, that appears to be good, but those have not seen use in over a year. But considering current set last about 50 miles not too excited about putting them on as is..

Problem, is to refresh either set I have now, or just get a set of remanned axles... Quick look shows I can get a set of duralast remanned axles for $120 for both.

Still looking for good source of quality boots. Anyone have any they have used and been happy with.

Normally would just save the headache and get the remanned, but something about having two good sets that just needs boots is making it really had to buy yet another set..
 

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You should be able to find Lobro boots if you look around. They're the OEM for the CV joints, so they should be very good quality. I bought a pair of EMPI boots off of eBay a while back. One was a very nice US-made boot with stainless steel clamps. The other was made in China and looked a lot cheaper. I'm assuming that the US-made boot was an older one that had been on the shelf for years. You might also look at Rein. They're made in Germany as far as I know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You should be able to find Lobro boots if you look around. They're the OEM for the CV joints, so they should be very good quality. I bought a pair of EMPI boots off of eBay a while back. One was a very nice US-made boot with stainless steel clamps. The other was made in China and looked a lot cheaper. I'm assuming that the US-made boot was an older one that had been on the shelf for years. You might also look at Rein. They're made in Germany as far as I know.

Thanks, Good info about Lobro being OEM. Haven't found anywhere that has full set of them available. Rein were also on my short list (made in Italy I believe), but never used them. Granted probably been 15 years since I actually re-booted and greased a drive shaft vs just buying remans. Seems to make sense here. Looks like I should be able to refresh the ones I have for just under $50 and have better axle then the cheaper remans.
 

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Keep your OEM axles. Find the boots that you feel good about and run them!
There are horror stories out there/here; on reman axles...Keep your OEM's as long as you can..
 

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You can see my thread about reman and Chinese axles. I went through four "rebuilt" ones before i found one that was in spec and not a POS. The
Chinese one was useless - out of spec and not even correct for a 9-3.

I concur - rebuild yours with new boots. No sense replacing quality parts via a crap shoot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Completed the rebuild of my CV axles using a nice set of Rein boot kits I got from FCPeuro. Total cost was about $50. But was a huge pain in the $%$!!!! But boots and grease were very good quality. Not a fan of the crimp eared clips that come with them, I prefer the other style that you use the tool to tighten then fold over to lock. Just think you get a more consistent band tension on them, and easier to install correctly every time.

Inner joints were pretty simple remove the snap ring and tap off the Y bearing end. The c-clip on the outters, what a pain. Have to hold open the clip while trying to bang axle out of the CV joint. Best advice I can give for anyone attempting it, clean up as much of the old grease as possible before you try so you can see what you are doing, and have a big hammer and brass punch while the axle is in sturdy vice. You will have to hit it VERY VERY hard. Also lots of rags and gloves, it is a messy dirty job.

Guessing it was about 4 hours to do both axles with them already off the car. But second axle did go considerably faster. Could probably do both in just over an hour now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For axles, it was just clean, re-grease and install new boots.

Backstory is car has been out of action for around 2 years (I picked it up with a bad engine, actually it was a failed engine swap for bad engine, but that is another story). Axles and boots seems fine, but once I started driving it, boots started leaking grease past the old boots clamps. No rips or tears in boots, just leaking grease everywhere.

So great candidate to freshen up the boots and grease as otherwise the axles and joints themselves where perfect.
 

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Thread hijack:

I have a brand new EMPI lying around for driver's side - manual trans

1) is it a piece of junk

2) are these new or remanufactured?

3) how do you get the new axle on to the part that goes into the transmission?
is it just a connection via metal ring around the rubber boot on the new axle?

4) if axle flange is leaking trans fluid, could it be an issue other than the oil seal?
or if the oil seal is ok, can it be, say, a worn transmission axle bushing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thread hijack:

I have a brand new EMPI lying around for driver's side - manual trans

1) is it a piece of junk

2) are these new or remanufactured?

3) how do you get the new axle on to the part that goes into the transmission?
is it just a connection via metal ring around the rubber boot on the new axle?

4) if axle flange is leaking trans fluid, could it be an issue other than the oil seal?
or if the oil seal is ok, can it be, say, a worn transmission axle bushing?

No idea what you have or quality of EMPI.

Assume for #3 you are talking passenger side? But for either side; Personally I remove the axles from the transmission and remove as one piece. Don't want to be dealing with grease and boots under the car.

Odds are leaks are seal, or could be damage to the sealing surface on the axle, but 9 times out of 10, it is the seal. Tip, when doing seals especially ones like the transmission seals that have metal. I always put the seal in the freezer for a good half hour, cold shrinks it just enough to make it much easier to press into place.
 

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Wow great seal tip
Im talking driver's side, the union between the body of the spline that goes in the transmission and the rubber CV boot on the axle CV joint nearest to the transmission.

The new empty is just bare on the trans side, im supposed to attach the spline body to it but have never done that before. Didn't know if it's just a boot with a clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wow great seal tip
Im talking driver's side, the union between the body of the spline that goes in the transmission and the rubber CV boot on the axle CV joint nearest to the transmission.

The new empty is just bare on the trans side, im supposed to attach the spline body to it but have never done that before. Didn't know if it's just a boot with a clamp.
Without seeing what you have I can only guess. I would assume the spline body is the Y shaped roller bearing that is present on the inner joints. That just get hammered on (obviously don't hammer on the rollers themselves, I used socket to press it onto the shaft) and a Snap ring secured it in place. Make sure you have already put the new inner CV boot on the axle before you do that. Then it is just grease and the inner CV boot that holds that joint together. Nothing other then boot and clips hold the inner joint together. The inner joints are to allow changing in lenght of the axle when turning, while the outer joints allow the changing of the angle.

Good news is the inner joints are much easier to work on then the outer joints.

Again without seeing it, all just a guess
 

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Sounds like you got the axle without the inner drivers/companion flange. Yes its just a case of filling things with grease, putting the boot on there and clamping it in place.
If it were me I would do things this way:
1. Drain the transmission (you don't have to, but you will lose some fluid when pulling the axle and its a good time to change things).
2. Pull the complete drivers side axle (use a slide hammer and a FWD axle puller attachement (both free rentals at AZ).
3. You can then take the inner driver/companion flange off the old axle, clean every and install it on the new one (the clamp is much easier to crimp out of the car and you have a much better chance of not losing all the new grease).
4. Change the axle seal, a thin smear of blue RTV around the surface that mates with the transmission will help make sure it stays sealed.
5. Reinstall the axle and add new fluid to the transmission.
 

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Ah thanks.

I just replaced most front suspension, and when taking the wheel assembly
out, it popped out and the axle also popped out of the transmission.

Oil seal looked ok, but there was 2mm play of spline body when moving
with my hand when in transmission.

Tran fluid flopped out, refilled with half a bottle MTF0063.
Have changed before so it's clean and nice looking.

This trans had the inner drive bushing hacked out and replaced with
a Taliaferro bushing. Leaks slowly 70,000mi later.
No other symptoms yet..except for maybe a "chirp chirp chirp" when turning hard in a parking lot from something..
 

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For axles, it was just clean, re-grease and install new boots.

Backstory is car has been out of action for around 2 years (I picked it up with a bad engine, actually it was a failed engine swap for bad engine, but that is another story). Axles and boots seems fine, but once I started driving it, boots started leaking grease past the old boots clamps. No rips or tears in boots, just leaking grease everywhere.

So great candidate to freshen up the boots and grease as otherwise the axles and joints themselves where perfect.
Soo,, why all the disassembly?. Couldnt you have cleaned everythiing "almost" as nice with all assembled, outside of boots?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Soo,, why all the disassembly?. Couldnt you have cleaned everythiing "almost" as nice with all assembled, outside of boots?
Considered just re-banding the boots, but figured at 15 years and sitting unused for at least two years, they were pretty dried out. Have to at least partially disassemble to put new boots on (passenger side you could easily only take one end off, but drivers side you either have to take apart both side or one side and remove the rubber in middle of shaft)

Decided I wanted to do full disassembly to get good check of all the joints looking for any signs of wear in the joints, at which point I would have went to the spares I have from a car I stripped and rebuilt the best ones I had. Complete dis-assembly is really best way to check all the joints, especially the outer joints with all the ball bearings and two cages in the joint.

At this point they should be good for another 100,000 miles :)
 
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