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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Slowly but surely I'm getting through the list of issues with my Viggen. One thing that I only notice when I'm taking a much longer drive is that my cruise control has not worked since I bought the car 2+ years ago. I'd like it to work. :lol:

I don't know where to begin troubleshooting, short of taking it back to my indie guy, but I'd prefer to check out the easy stuff myself, first. I did a search on the forums, but didn't really find anything useful to me. Does anyone have thoughts on where I should start my troubleshooting? The one thing I do know: CC only works above speeds of 25 MPH. :D

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, the CC works off the speedometer, which works off the ABS system. Do you have any ABS alarms and does the speedometer work?... Ron
The speedometer works fine (as far as I can tell ;)) and I have never had any ABS alarms, up until three weeks ago. My check engine light came on about 3 weeks ago. I had it checked out and it appears I have a brake servo vacuum leak. I doubt this new problem is the culprit, however. The CC has never worked and this problem just sprung up a few weeks ago.

I thought maybe it was operator error :), but I checked my handy-dandy manual and it appears that I have been attempting to set the CC correctly.
 

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Did you move the switch on top of the turn signal stalk (left side of steering wheel) to the left? Does the cruise control light on the dash light when you do that?... Ron
 

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1995 NG900 2.3L
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What about the famed cruise control interruptor switch that acts upon the clutch (or brake pedal, I cannot recall exactly)??

If that thing is kaput then the CC will not work.
 

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Kind of curious how this comes out, my cruise control has not worked since I purchased the car. The green light comes on but nothing else.

Never really was that concerned about it since I really never have the occasion to use it but would like it to work just because :)
 

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That's true, both the brake and clutch pedals have normally closed switches that enable (or disable) the cruise control. I thought there was an adjustment, but someone said no, so maybe a wire has come loose - causing an open circuit... Ron
 

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If it is any consolation, my cruise has not worked either since purchasing the car last year and I would bet it has been disabled for a long time before that. :cry:

Would the green light not come on if the interruptor switch was defective? I do not get any kind of indicator light at all and it is rather sorely missed. :cry::x
 

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On one of these fantastic Saab sites there is a diagnostic procedure that you can do that is a 'light on, light off' kind of indicator. It worked on my '94, not sure if yours is too new. I can't remember where I found it though, was it thesaabsite.com?

I had the same problem when I bought my 900S. Turned out that when the PO replaced the clutch cable, somehow the switch was removed or broken and never replaced. You would have never known, because the dash indicators showed that cruise control was turned on...

Are you prepared to do the 'under the dash handstand' to check the switches for the brake and clutch? eEuroparts has a really good price on them...
 

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And earthworm comes through again! There you go web-betty, the posts he has listed should apply to your car as well.

When doing the diagnosis with the dashboard cruise indicator, just be sure to follow it exactly, I got distracted when doing mine and finally got it on the third try. But, if you are missing a part like I was, it will pinpoint it for you. Have fun!
 

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I'd bet you that its those switches, specifically the one for the clutch pedal. When I replaced my clutch master, the pedal snapped back and whacked that dinky plastic out. Now I have no CC unless I tape the thing down HARD. Make sure the switch is aligned with the pedal shaft as well. The whole clutch pedal assembly is on this bracket which fits in a big hole, and uses foam to isolate movement-as you could imagine there is plenty of room for movement. This movement may be enough to miss align the two, causing the system to think you've got the clutch down.
-Cm
 

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While we are talking about this, my cc has never worked either. My cc light on my dash doesn't even come on when I try to switch it on. Would this just be the switch on the steering column? The clutch sensor?
 

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While we are talking about this, my cc has never worked either. My cc light on my dash doesn't even come on when I try to switch it on. Would this just be the switch on the steering column? The clutch sensor?
It wouldn't be the under-the dash switch for the clutch pedal, because mine wasn't even there, and there was no loss of continuity to the dash indicator. I'm not sure about the stalk, but it does make some sense, it would need continuity with the system to trigger the cruise and light the light. Otherwise I'd start looking at fuses and relays.

Actually, thats probably the best place to start, much cheaper than the stalk...
 

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^^ Thanks, mate.

On the parts listing for cruise control on the saabsite.com link earthworm provided lists two (2) switches needed for a manual transmission!

Yikes. :eek:

The price for a replacement cruise control module, also listed there, is sobering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Kind of curious how this comes out, my cruise control has not worked since I purchased the car. The green light comes on but nothing else.

Never really was that concerned about it since I really never have the occasion to use it but would like it to work just because :)
My green cruise indicator comes on also. I do have occasion every month or so to use it, with one coming up on Saturday. :D

earthworm said:
Thank you so much! I'm checking out the fault diagnosis you linked to and I'm confused. On line 3, it says "Move the switch to the TIP position..." I'm guessing the switch is the stalk switch but I don't know what the TIP position is. My manual makes no reference to TIP.

 

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If I'm not mistaken, TIP is in the same direction as resume, should be spring loaded, that's why it needs to be held in that direction...
"Tip" is part way to the on/off position. If you move it all the way out, past the detent, it will turn on or off. If you move it part way, up to but not past the detent, it will cancel the setting the same as if you had touched one of the pedals.

John
 

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If I were the technician repairing an automobile CC, I have to use a computer and Tech2, its that complex.
Maybe, it could be usually a clutch pedal switch, but I detest guessing.:nono;
If this is suspected; open or closed, it should be an easy test. Just push down 50mm and something should happen..:cheesy:
 

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Clutch and Brake Pedal Switches:



The clutch and brake pedal switches work the same way, but the clutch pedal switch is the one that normally needs adjustment as the clutch wears down. It only needs this on older cars, where the clutch pedal spring is too worn to return the pedal completely to the rest position (against the clutch travel adjustment screw).

The pedal switch works correctly for the life of the car, but only if the clutch cable, clutch return spring, and pedal travel adjustment screw are all working correctly together.

When new, the clutch pedal returns to its rest position, first due to strong tension in the clutch cable, and at the end, through weaker tension in the clutch return spring. As the clutch wears, the clutch cable mechanism is supposed to adjust one click at a time, and the pedal return spring does not have to do much work (2-3 millimeters at most).

When very worn down, or when the clutch cable is old, the cable adjustment does not work 100%. As the clutch wears and the clutch cable gets out of adjustment, the clutch return spring has to do more of the work, and as the spring gets "tired", the pedal does not return all the way against the stop at the end of the clutch travel adjustment screw. In that case the switch does not close when the clutch pedal is released.

One can test this by pulling up at the pedal lightly by hand (with car parked and engine off), or tip of one's shoe while driving at a steady speed. If there is play in the travel of the pedal, the switch may well close when pedal is pulled up against the rest, but open again when the pedal is released, and stay open.

If the switch stays open with the clutch pedal released (foot off the pedal), the cruise control will not work.

The right (and expensive) solution would be to make sure that the clutch cable is working correctly, or replace it with a new one, but the switch can also be made to work by pulling the switch plunger out manually, re-installing the switch, and letting the plunger ratchet reset itself to a new rest position.



The ratchet only resets itself in one direction, because it is designed to do this once, on installation, and not gradually a click at a time (like the clutch cable adjustment).

So, when someone says that the switch is not adjustable, strictly speaking that is true, because it adjusts itself only once, when installed (or re-installed after clutch cable replacement).

Sometimes the plunger can be pulled out with the switch in place, but often not. The problem can also be solved temporarily by taping something the size of one or two stacked nickels to the clutch pedal where the pedal pushes against the switch. This can be easier than removing the switch which is usually fragile.

With enough play, the switch can break where attached to the metal bracket. This is the only time it should need to be replaced, but mechanics often replace the switch instead of resetting the plunger, because the part is cheap compared to shop time, and if you pay over $100 to get the cruise to work again, you may as well end up with a brand new switch with a plastic clip which is not fragile due to age.

Some bad attempts at fixes:

Unfortunately, some people have bought used cars where the clutch pedal switch was missing, and/or bypassed), instead of replaced. This eliminates one of the safety interrupts on the cruise control (the other being the brake pedal), and hard to find for a new owner.

Previous owners of mechanics may also have changed the clutch pedal travel adjustment in an attempt to fix the problem. This can seem to work, but it is a REALLY bad idea, because it can interfere with the correct function of the clutch. (Clutch pedal travel is set once in the factory, and may sometimes need to be changed slightly when a new clutch is installed In other words, don't mess with this unless replacing a clutch, AND you know exactly what you are doing).
 
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