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2004 9-3 Linear - BCB Stage 2
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple weeks ago I stopped at a light when driving home in my 2004 9-3 linear. When I went to pull away the passenger side tire started making a knocking sound each revolution which gats worse with speed. So far I have put the spare on to see if it was the tire but it did not help. When I first got the car 2 years ago the first thing I did was get new cv axles and rear shocks. I took it to the closest shop to me which was Tire Works for a diagnostic since they had replaced my axles when I bought the car. They checked for play in the wheel bearings and said the cv axles were good. The odd thing is that they put it in gear on the lift and the passenger wheel would spin but the driver wheel would hop around violently and try to kill the car. They said its a transmission issue and that I should tow it to a Saab mechanic. Another odd thing is when its on the ground you could put it in gear and it would roll fine you just start hearing a thunking/tapping noise from the passenger side once you get over 10 mph which gets worse with speed. Also It kind of felt like a flat tire because the car felt like it was wobbling a little when going straight. Not trusting what they said at Tire Works I replaced the driver side axle since they had me convinced that it was something on the driver side. I figured it might have gone bad and they never even took off the tires. Once that didn't fix it I figured it was the tranny but need to know for sure. I towed it to the only reputable Saab shop in Las Vegas. I gave them a list of all the known issues I have including a bad wheel speed sensor and a bad Yaw sensor. I towed it there and told him what it was doing on the lift. He said that is not a sign of a bad tranny but it was doing that when there was no load on the tires because the abs system was freaking out because of the bad wheel speed and yaw sensor. First thing he said is that the calipers are a little seized and could cause a little extra drag and worse gas mileage. After a few days I got a call and they said that they want to replace both wheel bearings and both calipers and quoted me $2000 dollars. I towed the car back home tonight and replaced the whole hub assembly on the passenger side because that is where all the noise and vibration is coming from. I took it for a test drive and the passenger side was still doing the same thing. The noise is only on the passenger side so I don't think there is any way it could be the driver wheel bearing or caliper. The car is still able to be pushed relatively easy so the calipers are not locked just a little tight. The rotors are not warped no grooves and the pads are still at half wear. I'm looking for any kind of info on what I should try next. The problem is I just spent the last two months and over $1800 on fixing all the mechanical and electrical issues 1 week later this happened out of the blue. Now I'm already $400 in trying to chase this problem down. It's my first Saab and I really love the car and I really don't want to give up on it. Everyone I know that has seen what I have gone through think I'm insane and cant understand why I still love the car that has been such a giant pile of &%$#. I bought the car for 2000 and have already put $3000 into fixing stuff as it went bad. If anyone has had this issue or knows what this can be please give me some advise. Also can a bad wheel bearing on the driver side make noise on the passenger side only?

Thank you for reading my first post. Please help this first time Saab owner!
 

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Check intermediate shaft bearing.
 

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2004 9-3 Linear - BCB Stage 2
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check intermediate shaft bearing.
Thank you so much for that info and the quick response. I was kind of leaning in that direction. Being that I have done axles and hubs on this car do you think intermediate bearing is much harder of a job? Or should I be able to tackle it?
 

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You'll have some pressing to do.
Text Font Line Line art Technology
 

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Yes, auto has intermediate bearing too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Would it be the circled carrier bearing? I cant find a intermediate. Possibly just another name for the same thing?
Text Auto part Font Diagram
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you so much. I just joined the forum tonight. You're the first person I've interacted with and have been a ton of help after the frustrating night I have had :). Is there a best method to check if that bearing is bad. I also have the axle that I took off the driver side. Do you think I should pop that on the passenger side for the hell of it, or do you think that would just be a waste of time?
 

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I might put the car up on stands, spin the wheel by hand, and listen with a stethoscope or something to determine where the sound is actually coming from. It sounds like it should not be too hard to tell, maybe even by feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update!! I put the car on stands and spun the wheel as suggested. It would make a squealing noise each revolution. While watching the carrier assembly I noticed that the motor would move back just a little each revolution. Looking at the top inner axle boot it did not seem like it was rotating properly. I went to pull the passenger side axle to examine the carrier bearing. I gave it a slight pull and the inner boot was stretching just like the driver side one was when I ripped it in half trying to remove it. What really kills me is this is a completely different axle then the one they put in the driver side and looks like it was never replaced. I'm pretty sure when I got new axles and shocks from Tire Works they only replaced one. At the moment the upper part of the shaft is still stuck in but I'll get it out tomorrow. I'm also going to replace the carrier bearing for good measure because from what I can see it looks pretty shot at this point. One question I have is do the different OE manufactures build the knuckles differently? When this one came apart it looked completely different then the other one. This one just had the tri bearings and slid in. The other one looked like a diff with ball bearings.
 

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Never pull the axles, always push them out from the inner side, OE knuckles are the same, and it cant be ball bearing tell u the truth.
Some photos of the axles and knuckles may help .
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Never pull the axles, always push them out from the inner side, OE knuckles are the same, and it cant be ball bearing tell u the truth.
Some photos of the axles and knuckles may help .
[/QUOT
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just pulled to see if there was play and it was a ton. Per op when Tire works originally said it was tranny I figured they were full of **** so I replaced the driver side axle since it was the one jerking all over. I knew the noise was coming from passenger side so I was very confused. The issue is I used a O'Reilly axle (import Direct). It would never fully seat so I had to take it out. It was frozen at that point. I got so frustrated that I started yanking also had a chain around inner axle and slide I ripped it apart trying to get it out (First axle replacement ever). The next day I got a Dura last one from AutoZone and it seated and mounted with no issue. The O'Reilly one was about 2 mm to long and made it so the ball joint would not seat all the way. If I removed knuckle bolts to help the knuckle would not seat. The Saab shop said the O'Reilly clips on the shaft were too big and keep you from inserting the axle completely. You would have to Reuse the old clip in order to make it fit. Either way the internals of the O'Reilly looked completely different than the internals in the other axle. When I ripped it apart it had no tri bearings and some 1/2 to 3/4 inch ball bearings fell out. It looked kind of like a single geared diff with big ball bearings?
 

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Get OE used axles, i haven't seen much success from aftermarket axles on this forum specially on 2.0 .
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have spent the last 5 days trying to remove the passenger CV Axle easily 40 hours. I've tried all methods I've seen mentioned, hammer, prying, hammer with chain, slide hammer with chain, 5 days of soaking with PB blaster and finally a slide hammer with the CV puller adapter that looks like a horseshoe and pulls it from behind. I haven't been able to get it to dislodge a millimeter. I'm feeling very defeated at the moment. If anyone has some insight into how to get this f%^$&# loose I appreciate any input. I hope something this trivial does not end up being the reason I have to junk the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes sir, that's actually how I got the driver side one out when I replaced it. :(
 
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