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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

i have a few questions ---
i am in need of turning over a parts' car's engine while engine
remains in car & car remains outside. i was hoping i could
use the crankshaft pulley nut to do such. when i looked at
the available working room from firewall to pulley face i get the
feeling i don't have enough room to get a socket down there,
let alone the wrench! i did a search & found several pics of guys
with access holes cut into the firewall . . . . . . hmmmmmmm
so what size is that nut and does anyone have suggestions for
manually turning the engine over?

thanx for your consideration,
 

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If it's a manual just put the trans in 5th, jack up one wheel, and turn the wheel.

Use blocks and the e-brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ahhhhhh . . . .
thanx for the quick reply Matt, & thanx for indirectly
noting my lack of thoroughness . . . .
the car is an automatic & pretty much it seems -- the
tranny is completely shot as any "gear" resembles zilch
at the wheels. so i am alas, stuck to figuring a way to
turn this engine over with my own means.
thnx again for the help
 

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If the car has air-con, it will have an aircon pulley attached to the main crankshaft pulley. Remove the aircon pulley (three 10mm bolts) and you'll make more room for the socket. I had no trouble with a standard short socket and breaker bar.
 

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The crankshaft pulley nut is M30. To access it you'll need a low-profile 6-point 30 mm socket and a breaker bar to use for leverage. Since you're not trying to remove the crankshaft pulley, no real force is needed. The other way to do it is take the flywheel/driveplate cover off use an appropriate tool acting on the teeth of the flywheel/driveplate.

Craig.
 

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With the head off my 1992 900 turbo vert. I decided to reseal the oil pump and renew the pully seal.
It was obvious the head gasket had been replace in recent times but the head had .007 or so warp so I got the head and exhaust manifold milled.
The bolt holding my crank pully on is a 27 mm socket size.
I fiddled around and got the 3 10mm wrench size bolts for the ac pully off.
Still,there was not enough room to get my 1/2 inch flex bar and shallow 27 socket to fit on the crank pully bolt.
Engine so close to the fire wall.
Finally,I had to resort to a large pipe wrench with a 3 foot pipe on the wrench handle.
The bolt came right off.
I pulled the pully off to find the pully seal had left the oil pump houseing and was spinning with the pully.
The oil pump o ring was now a hard plastic.
Glad I decidd to reseal the oil pump.
I don't understand why I could not get the flex bar with socket on the pully bolt.
Never had that problem before.
Hope to have it all correctly back together and running in the next few days.
TrollMedic
 

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was/is there a different distance between the old firewall 1988-89,16v than the 91-93,16v, as I am just stripping a 1992, and thought I will take the ccs out incase I need it for one of my others I run , and I could not get my socket on the nut without cutting it down, yet when I did my 88-89 reg a few years back I did not have to cut a socket I still have the same set, so was there only a 2 groove pulley wheel then or has something else changed ?,e.g. was it a deeper dish in the pulley instead of now flat face, etc
 

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archimedes said:
ahhhhhh . . . .
thanx for the quick reply Matt, & thanx for indirectly
noting my lack of thoroughness . . . .
the car is an automatic & pretty much it seems -- the
tranny is completely shot as any "gear" resembles zilch
at the wheels. so i am alas, stuck to figuring a way to
turn this engine over with my own means.
thnx again for the help
Naturally it would be an automatic. ;) No worries about the transmission, that's normal for an automatic, one of the reasons you can't bump/push start an automatic, it's a fluid coupling and without the engine going it's not going anywhere.

You can remove the flywheel cover, and turn the flywheel, or just remove the first pulley on the crank pulley (the A/C pulley) after which you'll be able to put a socket on it and turn it. You may have to cut the socket down to get clearance.
 

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I found it relatively simple to get a 1/2" ratchet and socket down there... after the initial 'My arm's coming off!' push it's fine....
 

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StormCrow said:
I found it relatively simple to get a 1/2" ratchet and socket down there... after the initial 'My arm's coming off!' push it's fine....
The trick is to shave your arm and lube it up with Vaseline. ;) :p :p


:cheesy:



:eek:



:suprised;
 

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Discussion Starter #11
you guys never fail to entertain . . . . . . . with the intel

& . . . .itz dun w' sum mitey fine humor ;)

thanx for the sharing
 

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Now that I think about it,back in the day when I was working on new Saab 900 classics the Saab dealer had a factory tool to loosen the crank pully bolt.
It was a flat bar with a shallow socket welded to one end and a square opening,1/2 inch,on the other end where you could attach a 1/2' torque wrench or breaker bar.
I think I'll try to make one up so I don't have to use the pipe wrench with a pipe extenstion next time.
TrollMedic
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
all,

got it done.
intel for freeing the Aircon pulley w/3-10mm bolts was excellent!
thanx for your support --
smthn of value i hope for anyone that might need . .. . .
-- while shopping for the flat wrench (no luck on socket & ratchet
fitting . . . ) i asked my parts guy for a calculator. sure enough my hunch
paid off & 27mm equates to 1.06299 which is just 4.9 tenths over 1 1/16"
nominal. $19 quick!, some marvel mystery oil, a nice fitting funnel
& my parts car's cylinder walls will sit protected from the elements
until my next manual crank thru.
 

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Hi all,

i have a few questions ---
i am in need of turning over a parts' car's engine while engine
remains in car & car remains outside. i was hoping i could
use the crankshaft pulley nut to do such. when i looked at
the available working room from firewall to pulley face i get the
feeling i don't have enough room to get a socket down there,
let alone the wrench! i did a search & found several pics of guys
with access holes cut into the firewall . . . . . . hmmmmmmm
so what size is that nut and does anyone have suggestions for
manually turning the engine over?

thanx for your consideration,
If you have a combination wrench (open/box ends) of the right size (I forget the size of the nut), and you can get a big screwdriver or chisel wedged into the teeth of the starter RING GEAR (the clutch is bolted to it) to stop the ring gear from turning, it is fairly simple to engage the crankshaft pulley nut with your offset box end wrench. Slip a fairly wide-diameter, 4-5ft pipe over your wrench (the open end) and with this leverage and your ring gear jammed, break the crank pulley nut loose. It's quite awkward at first, but if the box end is a 12-pointer (best; should also have an offset!), you can remove the wrench and re-apply it in small increments, until the nut is loose enough to at first just use the wrench without the length of pipe, and finally, by hand.
For tightening, you reverse the procedure, but you must jam the ring gear to stop it moving, now in the opposite direction. With the length of pipe, you should have little difficulty in tightening the crank nut satisfactorily tight. Go slow on cutting holes in your firewall! With the spark plugs out and the ring gear free to turn, you should find it easy to turn the engine over manually; as much as needed. For correct direction-of-engine rotation, refer to the timing marks on the outer rim of the ring gear/flywheel (easiest with the plastic cover removed, but not absolutely necessary; you might need to wipe the degree numbers clean with some solvent and a rag, but at least you'll be able to see clearly which direction you're turning your engine).
This inf is for newbies; don't wish to ruffle any old roosters' feathers!
 
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