SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Did starter crank engine over when jumping the terminals in the UEC at relay #8? Terminals #31 to #87 iirc.
Do you hear fuel pump start and stop when fob is turned to run position?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm experiencing same issue but my car only cranks won't fire. Can't confirm fuel pump engaging but car ran flawless when parked due to broken exaughst
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Flex pipe broke, parked.
Noticed headlights on one day, couldn't get them to stay off.
Battery died as result.
About 2 weeks later, repaired exaughst.
All things compete, tried to start. Battery dead as a door knob.
Tried jumping.....
Key not accepted.
(key wouldn't turn... After fidgeting around finally got it to turn)
(meanwhile headlights still on and non responsive to switch)
Key fob nonresponsive
Windows non responsive
Steering lock malfunction
Immobilizer failure.

What I've tried.
Bypassing circuit breaker on positive terminal.
Removing cleaning multiple times ism
Forcing key to "on" piston by manual pulling back of pin
Jumping relay #8 under hood.. (only cranks motor.. Won't fire.... No fuel? Maybe? Unconfirmed!

No runability issues prior to parking.

Tried using new battery tested 12.29.... (didn't allow any "reset window") ..... No Change, tried un hook for one hour... Unhook for over night, no changes.

Bought brand new battery, tested 12.59 volts
Installed, closed hood, observed.

After 2 mins. Headlights went out (after illuminating immediately upon installation of new battery)

At 5 min mark noticed ism only backlight erratically illuminating.

At 45 minute mark.
Approach car, key fob non responsive
Open door... Insert key.. No response... Then delayed sid message.. Key not accepted. Immo and steering lock failure.
 

·
Registered
2008 Saab 9-3 Aero FWD 6MT
Joined
·
143 Posts
If the key will turn to the "On" Position, you can try jumping the starter at the relay. Look up how to do this using the search function. If it still doesn't turn the starter, you either have a bad neutral safety/clutch switch or a break in the wiring somewhere (aside from a faulty starter or bad battery).
If the key will not turn to the on position, you can manually disengage the ignition lock with a small piece of bent wire. Look up specifics using the search function. When you get the lock disengaged, if a bunch of errors pop up once the key is turned to the on position, DO NOT TRY TO START THE CAR. No signal is being supplied to the ECU from the CANBUS in the CIM. Replace the CIM and continue.
If it starts after CIM replacement, great.
If not, make sure the errors the popped up in the "On" position have disappeared
If not, it's time to hand it over to someone to track down an ECU/wiring problem.
If the errors, do go away, you can try starting the car from the ignition switch
If it starts, drive it for 30 mins and make sure the steering lock re-engages when shut down.
If it doesn't start, try jumping from the starter relay, make sure the key is in the "On" position before trying. If this works, and you have checked the neutral safety/clutch switch and wiring from the fuse box to the ECU, it's time for a new ECU. If you can only start the car by jumping the relay, and every wire and switch to and from the relay is good, then it's likely Pin 35 on the ECU has died. This pin supplies the ground signal that you are artificially creating by jumping the relay. I'll say it again for good measure, you can only make this assumption when you have checked continuity in the wiring from the relay to the ignition switch, which includes the switch in the middle, and also checked the wiring leading back to the ECU and everything checks out. If you have questions, you can PM me or post here.
This is a post I made for another member on here, I had the EXACT problem you are having. I needed a new ISM, CIM, and then figured out an ECU pin died in the process. I think i have another post somewhere, about this as well. I can help you diagnose this if you are pretty handy with a mulimeter and are very familiar with your car. YMM?
 

·
Registered
2008 Saab 9-3 Aero FWD 6MT
Joined
·
143 Posts
FIXED: After working with my friend Gary @ Moose Proof Automotive, we tracked the fault to a couple things. This turned out to be the perfect storm of Saab malfunctions. First, the ignition switch solenoid was stuck, so we replaced that, applied 12V to it and it wouldn't budge. Second, CIM died, most likely from the low voltage from the super dead battery. New battery and CIM replaced. Third, car still wouldn't start. Tracked it down to Pin 35 on the ECU not supplying ground to the starter relay. For the time being, we just cut the wire leading from the pin to the fuse box and put the fuse box side of the wire directly to ground. As a result of doing this, the starter now runs when you push in the clutch pedal, so we just wired up a toggle switch to the inside and can now open and close the circuit at will. Ignition ON, switch ON, and pressing the clutch in starts the car, then to drive it without running the starter, just flip the switch off. It's not the right fix, but I don't have the money for a new ECU yet. We are doing the right fix soon. Thanks.
Here it is Redrum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
This is a post I made for another member on here, I had the EXACT problem you are having. I needed a new ISM, CIM, and then figured out an ECU pin died in the process. I think i have another post somewhere, about this as well. I can help you diagnose this if you are pretty handy with a mulimeter and are very familiar with your car. YMM?
Sure id appreciate the help, I'm waiting on the ism.

03 saab 9-3 linear sedan 5 spd 2.0t
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top