[supremedalek]

Well I assume it is normal thread but how much leverage do you need to persuade it to break loose? I just broke my, well, breaker bar while using a 4-5ft pipe over it. Pulley bolt is still there happy. What am I missing here?

 

[euromobile900]

Yep, normal thread on the crank bolt. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. I used a 6-foot pipe on a pretty good quality breaker to get mine loose (still 1/2" drive socket). I know some are on there harder than others. Emmett, as I recall, had some issues with his 99 t16's pulley being on really hard.
Thread here, with plenty of good advice:
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94715&highlight=crank+pulley

 

[grif900]

Get another bar, rest it against the right fender well and bump the starter. It will come right off.

 

[Matt88S]

1/2 drive or 3/8 drive breaker bar?

 

[grif900]

1/2" or better. Save the 3/8" drive bar for very light jobs.

 

[Matt88S]

1/2" or better. Save the 3/8" drive bar for very light jobs.

But of course, I was just wondering if the one he broke was 1/2 or 3/8ths.

 

[martymar]

I myself welded a "Snap-On" socket to a piece of steel stock 1/4" thick 2"x36"........ OVERKILL? maybe! used over 20 times on 5 different cars, still stronger than a breaker bar!

 

[grif900]

I myself welded a "Snap-On" socket to a piece of steel stock 1/4" thick 2"x36"........ OVERKILL? maybe! used over 20 times on 5 different cars, still stronger than a breaker bar!

Yep.I built myself a similar bit of ugly, I lay it on the steering rack with a hardwood block as a buffer and hit the starter.This method has never failed me.

 

[supremedalek]

But of course, I was just wondering if the one he broke was 1/2 or 3/8ths.

Actually it was a 1/2. I was actually thinking it may be too small and see about going 3/4.

 

[rabraker]

I too broke a 1/2" breaker bar while bumping the starter. Luckily it was a craftsman so I got it replaced for free. I ended up using 6' length of fence pipe as a cheater bar. I also could never figure out how to lock the flywheel so I wedged an old ski pole against the brake pedal and seat back. When the bolt finally broke loose, it gave a LOUD pop/screech. I thought I had broken something.

It should also be mentioned that if you use the starter trick, make sure that you disable the ignition (ie disconnect the HT lead that feeds the distributor). You don't want you car starting with a socket attached to that bolt.

 

[supremedalek]

I too broke a 1/2" breaker bar while bumping the starter. Luckily it was a craftsman so I got it replaced for free. I ended up using 6' length of fence pipe as a cheater bar. I also could never figure out how to lock the flywheel so I wedged an old ski pole against the brake pedal and seat back. When the bolt finally broke loose, it gave a LOUD pop/screech. I thought I had broken something.

I actually ordered what should be the tool to hold the flywheel in place from zdmak (which means, if anybody needs to borrow it, let me know), but it has not shown up here yet. Otherwise I would have spent the weekend making that bloody crank come off. About the fence pipe, I do like the idea. Of course, the question is where I would find one.

I do not plan on trying the started trick at this point in the show because, well, the car is currently headless. I know, I know, I could make something like a block of wood I would shove into one of the cylinders and then some bracket to hold it in place, but I am too lazy for that. :cheesy:

I will keep you posted of any update in this adventure!

 

[rabraker]

About the fence pipe, I do like the idea. Of course, the question is where I would find one.

I bought it at Home Depot for about $10

 

[supremedalek]

Here is an update: I got the crank holding tool thingie. And, it worked! So, now the crank bolt and pulley are out. Onwards to the timing chain!

One question: when you put the bolt back, do I coat the threads with light oil before torquing?

 

[crwchf01]

Here is an update: I got the crank holding tool thingie. And, it worked! So, now the crank bolt and pulley are out. Onwards to the timing chain!

One question: when you put the bolt back, do I coat the threads with light oil before torquing?

I wouldn't oil it, I would use anti-seize.

 

[supremedalek]

Care to elaborate on your reasoning?

 

[crwchf01]

You are in a high corrosion area. Anti-seize is designed to permit dismantling, but not necessarily change the applied torque the way a lubricated thread would. Most torques are assumed to be dry unless otherwise stated. A small packet of Anti-seize will go a long way and is also useful for all those suspension bolts and threads out in the weather. Unless you use it a lot like me and buy the 4 oz. bottles. Also works well to prevent spark plug seizing in aluminum heads.

 

[Jim Mesthene]

Most torques are assumed to be dry unless otherwise stated.

Specs assume clean, lightly oiled threads.
It makes no difference what lubricant you use on the Balancer Bolt. The threads are inside the Seal thus, inside the Engine; immune to corrosion.
I have seen oil leak through the Bolt head. A dab of RTV on the Bolt face that seats on the Balancer prevents that.