SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I bought my Saab a little less then a year ago knowing I had a very small oil leak. Its been leaking oil really bad lately so I figured it was just a leaky valve cover gasket. Well to my suprise I found a big crack on the backside of cylinder head....OUCH! I do remember the seller of the car having the water pump and thermostat replaced before I purchased the car. I'm guessing it overheated and that caused the head to crack. Also my car is using anti-freeze, but its not leaking. At this point, would it be best to replace the cylinder head or is there further damage to the engine? It runs great now, doesn't burn oil or have a funny color to exhaust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,298 Posts
I bought my Saab a little less then a year ago knowing I had a very small oil leak. Its been leaking oil really bad lately so I figured it was just a leaky valve cover gasket. Well to my suprise I found a big crack on the backside of cylinder head....OUCH! I do remember the seller of the car having the water pump and thermostat replaced before I purchased the car. I'm guessing it overheated and that caused the head to crack. Also my car is using anti-freeze, but its not leaking. At this point, would it be best to replace the cylinder head or is there further damage to the engine? It runs great now, doesn't burn oil or have a funny color to exhaust.
Replace the head before you kill that engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Probably best to drive it as little as possible or park it? Its my only driver and my work is just a few miles away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,395 Posts
I'd park it and look for a used head.....plenty of part out threads pop up around here. If you buy a used one, have a machine shop evaluate it before install to se if it needs a refresh....


Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I was calling around for a cylinder head and my 2005 Saab 2.0t calls for a b207L. Can I go with a b207r? Whats the difference? I called thesaabsite and they have new cylinder heads for $525.00, but I go with the b207r it voids the warranty. Seems like a good deal for $525. What do you guys think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,445 Posts
I would also recommend a complete engine swap. Who knows if the block is really still OK? The block is also aluminum like the head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I would also recommend a complete engine swap. Who knows if the block is really still OK? The block is also aluminum like the head.
Well, considering how the car runs you wouldn't even know it even has a cracked cylinder head. The car is not worth replacing the whole engine IMHO. Anybody know if a b207r head would work on a b207L block?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,646 Posts
Well, considering how the car runs you wouldn't even know it even has a cracked cylinder head. The car is not worth replacing the whole engine IMHO. Anybody know if a b207r head would work on a b207L block?
Yes, it will bolt up, but the heads are different:

The "R" engine got a different cylinder head assembly:

B207E-L: 55 353 477
B207R: 55 353 478

The reason for the different assembly part numbers may only be a result of camshafts inside the head which were changed. It may also have a different casting. There is no EPC listing for the bare head itself.

The "R" engine got different camshafts on both intake and exhaust, but all other parts inside the head appear to be the same. Here are the "R" spec camshaft part numbers. (I'm assuming no one wants the "E" and "L" PNs.)

Intake: 12 792 364
Exhaust: 12 788 844

The "R" engine also got a different valve cover. (12 797 659)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I think in my case it would be best to go for what my particular engine is set up for. Over at the Saabsite, they went by my VIN # and was told I had the "L" type. I'm assuming its the B207E-L that they were referring too for my car. Unless I was to find a "R" type cylinder head and valve cover to go with from a salvage yard. But then again I'm not sure if my computer is tuned for the different cams and running into the risk of not running properly. If anybody can answer that question it would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks Diggs for the helpful info.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,646 Posts
I think in my case it would be best to go for what my particular engine is set up for. Over at the Saabsite, they went by my VIN # and was told I had the "L" type. I'm assuming its the B207E-L that they were referring too for my car. Unless I was to find a "R" type cylinder head and valve cover to go with from a salvage yard. But then again I'm not sure if my computer is tuned for the different cams and running into the risk of not running properly. If anybody can answer that question it would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks Diggs for the helpful info.
B207E was the detuned 2.0t across the pond. B207L is what you and I have. You could run a B207R head, but I think probably would need ECU to be tuned for it to work properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,351 Posts
My guess is that thesaabsite.com price is only for a bare head and doesn't contain all the parts (cams, valves, etc.) as pictured. Saabpartscheap has the complete head for a bigger price:

Cylinder head & valves, Cylinder head
9-3, w/o High Output - 2.0l
List Price : $4,092.57
Your Price : $3,780.69

Ouch! ... Ron
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
B207E was the detuned 2.0t across the pond. B207L is what you and I have. You could run a B207R head, but I think probably would need ECU to be tuned for it to work properly.

Would there be any advantages to running a B207R as to a B207L head?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,646 Posts
Would there be any advantages to running a B207R as to a B207L head?
If you tuned it you could get more power. Not sure if significant. I'd just try to find a B207L head if it were me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
If you tuned it you could get more power. Not sure if significant. I'd just try to find a B207L head if it were me.
B207L it is! I don't want to run into a lot of complications anyways. For now I just want to get it back to where its supposed to be without costing me a arm and leg to do it. ECU tune, exhaust and intake upgrades are possible down the road for getting more power.

I'm finding a used cylinder heads ranging from $300 to $450. A refurbished head, resurfaced, new valve guides, cut valve seats and new valve stem seals I can get for around $500.

Thanks Diggs for your input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
702 Posts
I know its a long shot, but do your best to find the source of the coolant leak before popping for a new head. Those older blocks can be porous and basically eat water. If you dont know what I mean you will when you get the old head off, the block looks like a styrofoam cooler. And what are styrofoam cooler prone to do?????????? LEAK. We rarely replace heads for leaking water, it is as you find, usually oil. Our heads are sand cast and are much less prone to leaking then their GM counterparts. That's why all the Cobalt SS guys buy our engines.

As far as the R-head, it is the cams that are different but not really, it is more of a timing issue. BTW you must have the correct cam tools to time your engine variant or it will set dtcs. You can have an R head and cams as long as you us the L cam tools. Also you must use 2006 and back engines /heads or be prepared for fitament issues.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top