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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Car is an '02 9-3 Convertible. It had all the typical symptoms of a CPS failing....would start fine when cold, but would not start after it got warmed up...got progressively worse and it would stall out when driving and then not start up for 30 minutes or so, to now not starting at all.

I replaced the CPS with a brand new one, car will not start, no fuel no spark. Turns over fine. Tested the old CPS and it shows open circuit across all the leads. Made sure the old o-ring was removed so it seats into the hole properly.

Checked the fuel pump fuse and it gets power for a second or two when the key is turned on. No tach bounce either with the new CPS, the needle moves oh so slightly, almost imperceptible.

Does this mean the new CPS is faulty? What should I be looking for, not only with this sensor but anything else on the car?
 

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Did you get the correct CPS? There is one for the turbo engine and one for the non-turbo engine. Read the resistance across the connector and report the Ohms... Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I knew it was a bit off, but not sure if that's enough to cause this problem.

What should the readings do if I pass something metallic over the magnet?
 

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There's no test in the WIS. The sensor generates an A/C current and the frequency is measured. It also says "as soon as the control module receives pulses from the crankshaft sensor, it will ground the fuel pump relay". I believe "it" refers to the control module.

That's all I have ... no practical experience :-(
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I took back the first new CPS and installed another brand spanking new one. The car STILL does not have fuel or spark. Yes, the CPS is seated into the opening nice and tight and yes, the connection has been made, but same result. I ohmed this one out first before installing and it was well within tolerances.

As I said, the original CPS was bad (open circuit) and it showed all the classic symptoms of going bad for a while before it finally would not start at all.

Now where should I be looking?
 

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did you try resetting the ECU by pulling the negative battery terminal. then go in have a beer, come back out and try again
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I guess I need to eat humble pie.....

I assumed since it did not start again I had the same issues as before. I DO have spark but there is no fuel in the rail and that's why it does not start now.

When I shot starting fluid into the intake, it did start up for a few seconds.

I have power to the fuel pump when cranking but fuel does not make it to the engine. I can feel the pump running and when checked with my meter at the fuse, there is power there when cranking also.

The pump was replaced by someone else several weeks ago. It has a full tank of gas.

Now where do I look?
 

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Maybe the hose came off in the tank?

Bogan had a thread a while back about improper fuel line that expanded and popped off the connector.
 

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This is a shot in the dark, but it happened to my car. When I changed the fuel pump/filter 2 years ago, it ran great for about a week then it died. I changed the CPS...nothing. I swapped out a good DIC...nothing. When I checked for fuel pressure...nothing (but knew I had a good FPR). When I pulled the fuel pump back out, the hose from the pump to the nipple/check valve had popped off (even though it appears to have been shrunken on to the nipple properly). All I had to do was replace the hose, using hose clamps to make sure the hose wouldn't pop off again, and it's been fine since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for relaying your experience! I cut a hole under the back seat and pulled the pump. Yes indeed, the hose from pump to valve had popped off. I secured it with a hose clamp and it fired right up.
 
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