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Looking great! Good update. Sad to hear about the steering rack, that is a tough job. I did mine twice last year! Put a reconditioned rack in which also leaked, and had to pull it to put another in. What you will find is that nobody makes a new rack, all I could find were rebuilt ones. Might be best getting a known good unit somehow off a parts car.

Just the other day my 9-5 puked all its power steering fluid. I’m hoping it was a hose, but it has been so cold and now rainy that I’ve just been driving the 900. Maybe I’ll get to do the rack once more! :(
 

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Discussion Starter #122
@TBoy I assume you remove the subframe to get to the rack?

Sadly the steering rack is one of those handy things I sent off with my old 9-5 to the wreckers.. yep, that was stupid...

I've never touched a steering rack before so it'll be another new experience - and you make it sound so fun!


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@bha280 - I have pulled apart the rear a few times, it's not difficult and there's actually not a lot to break. It's put together quite solidly.

The only thing that requires caution is the little narrow fill panel above the rear trunk window - it's attached to the larger D-pillar panel – which you have to remove – by means of a little hook-like plastic piece. It doesn't matter hugely if you break this, however.

Start with the middle panel with the light in it - work from the inner edge. It does need some effort to pull the clips from the steel body, so don't be too cautious.

Once that's out, work your way downwards. First the d-pillar cover (again, solid clips!), then the cover below the window.

There are some small plastic covers hiding screws, and the main carpet is bolted at the top (hidden) edge.

There's a good guide with pics here:

http://www.twinsaabs.com/9-5_repair/interior/stereo/subwoofer.asp
 

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Yes, subframe must be "lowered" to remove the rack. The first time I did it I just removed it and combined the job with a suspension overhaul including subframe bushings. The second time I did lower the back of the subframe, but it is still fiddly to wiggle it in and out.
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Well many months later and the car is only at 142,XXX km.

It runs bloody well, big fat oomph of power when the boost comes on, and it goes pretty hard to 6000+ rpm.



I didn't really win the battle with the roof - the clear is failing. A couple of tiny spots have blistered, which is hugely disappointing. It still looks a million miles from how it did when I bought it, but in the end I couldn't rescue it. A respray will be required in its distant future.

I've continued to tidy her up.

  • Fixed the rear subwoofer by re-foaming it.
  • Wet sanded out some of the bigger scratches, including a line that ran along the whole rear drivers side.
  • Fixed up a few blown bulbs in the centre console and info display.
  • Removed the old crappy tint.
  • Put the stock wheels back on with decent set of rubber.
  • Replaced the shark fin aerial with a new OEM dummy unit (eBay ones were just ****e IMO).
  • Added camber bolts to the front struts - still saving for the KMAC rear ones
  • Did a basic repair of the lightly damaged rear arch to get some paint on it. Fine from distance!
  • Thought i'd fixed a squeak in the back seat area, but it came back. Got to track this bugger down!


Mechanically I've had a few snags:

Wheel bearing
Pass. front wheel bearing AND hub failed - I had a new bearing pressed into a new hub and then refitted, but it still chirps now and then because I bought a "kit" not realising the parts are from bloody ProParts Sweden, who are.. mediocre. So will probably do this again with a top quality bearing.

ABS Sensor failed
Likely wiring failed due to being brittle, and manipulated whilst changing the hub. I will try to repair it first.

Handbrake
I think the handbrake position it has previously been incorrectly adjusted in the cabin, and now I can't seem to perform the proper adjustment on the shoe position. Annoying, will probably get a Saab shop on this one.

Input Shaft Bearing
Biggest of all.. the input shaft bearing is making noise in neutral with clutch up. So I guess I have to pull the gearbox at some point. I might save that job for a time when I can chuck a Quaife LSD in there.. but that time is probably "never" due to the cost... New boxes still available if it ever comes to it.

I don't actually think there's anything wrong with the steering rack after all - it was all part of the hub issue. It probably needs new bushes, and the column splines greasing.

FWIW I had a fellow Saab fan genuinely interested in buying it, but I wasn't ready and didn't feel i could sell it for what i'd like with the current issues - mainly the ISB. The offer was pretty good though!
 

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Discussion Starter #126
Fiddled and fixed a few items last week.

ABS Sensor done and ABS issue now sorted


Polished up the exhaust tip - the first bit of love it's seen in many a long year!


Replaced the front badge with a proper one instead of the cheapo gel-dome type that people put on.



Also fiddled with the PCV system to delete entirely the return line breather from the oil filler neck. A lot of techs I know do not rate the final PCV "fix" and recommend modifying it slightly. I'm going to have one of them double check it at some point soon, to make sure I've got it right.


I chased the rear bench seat latch squeak but haven't nailed that sucker yet.

Also did what I could for now with the handbrake adjustment - it's not the right way to do it, but tightening down at the lever end has ensured it will bite at all rather than risking it missing even on top click. I may find I need new shoes, or might simply have to pull the rear discs to get better access to the adjustment screws. One for later..
 

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Discussion Starter #130
Thanks @qwikredline and @Tboy, as ever!

Might as well update on my current plans for this thing - hopefully within the next 12 months..:

  • Buy and add rear camber adusting eccentric rose bushes
  • 3" Downpipe, keep stock exhaust from cat back for now
  • Intercooler - can possibly get a used do88 from another enthusiast here
  • 3.5bar FPR
  • Stage 3 tune
That should see me beyond 300hp on the stock TD04, which will do me for now and possibly for a long time. At times it already feels pretty damn quick so depending on what it's actually mapped to from factory, could be 80-100hp gains in that lot.

FWIW the same guy who has the do88 cooler has a 3" DP but I think it's either an OBX or a Proparts one from back when eEuro sold those. It has a 100cell cat, which means it has to have an accompanying tune in order to not trigger a CEL. So.. not a bad cheaper option, but I am leaning to the higher quality APH (UK) pipe, which is a thing of beauty and which I could install without software changes.
 

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Is it in stock tune already? Might want to try a stage one in the meantime, I've heard it is quite good. I *think* I have a stag 1 in my viggen, it was done by PO. It is quite good. I know the car does not have any additonal hardware, so it must be stage one'ish, but it might not be from T7 suite, might be from a tuner.
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Yeah I've thought about it but would probably rather defer that cost a bit, not keen to pay twice. We have an excellent local (ish) tuner who has posted here in the past, and I want to use his services.

I could do with finally sorting my own T7 Suite setup. I have several ECUs (don't we all?) but never got around to ordering the adaptor etc.

Not planning to tune myself, but I'd rather have the tune via email option instead of sending ECU's off.
 

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I don’t have an option for a local tuner. So far I’ve not tuned too much and I’m not keen on applying anything more than stage one type stuff. Beyond that I think it’s best to have an experienced person work it out.
 
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