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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently I acquired a fast coolant leak on my 1997 Saab 900 SE. I replaced the water pump, which slowed the leak, but it is definitely still prevalent. After looking around, I found exactly where it is leaking, only problem is, I dont know what it is, nor how to take the line off.
The line that is leaking comes off the bottom right,(passenger) side of the Radiator. It goes from the radiator, to something that is right above the oil filter.


The hose on the left is the one that is leaking. But its not the hose, its the nut the screws the hose in that seems to be causing the leak.
Any ideas on what this hose line is called, and how to go about replacing it would be greatly appreciated. I dont understand how im supposed to get a wrench or socket around that w/o cutting the hose off??

Thank you.
 

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You're talking about #10 on the diagram below, right? If not, than I assume you have an Automatic Transmission and are talking about one of the AT cooling lines, specifically the feed line. (not pictured)

 

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I'm not sure what the line is called, but you need a line wrench to get that loose. Looks as if the subframe is in the way.

You need to replace that engine mount too.
 

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Looks like #10 is just the lower rad hose, eh?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
#10 Would be just the lower rad hose,, which is in just fine condition. These 2 lines are something different, they are coming out of the right hand side of the Rad, very close to the #10.

Ill see if I can borrow a line wrench from Autozone possibly, otherwise Ebay.

Could you guys please expound on the engine mount? What is wrong with the Oil pan? Sorry, Im fairly new to mechanics, only the 4th car Ive worked on.
Thank you.
 

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There is engine mount on that side of the engine. When it lets go the oil pan sits on the sub frame. Here's a link on how replace all three. It's quite easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, I got an update. Did some more research and discovered that the 2 lines in the pic are called "oil cooler lines"
Usually people leak Oil out of these lines and need to replaced them. But I am leaking Antifreeze, no traces of oil leaks.
Maybe I am wrong and the leak is just dripping onto the oil cooler lines, but that would hint the weeping hole from water pump which was just replaced???

Should I take the car for a spin? Maybe the heat will expand orings? Car has been sitting for close to 2 weeks with only a few starts, no movement.
 

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What is leaking? Is it antifreeze or automatic transmission fluid? Those lines really look like transmission cooler lines, but shouldn't they carry transmission fluid? If your leaking antifreeze, I think your leak might be somewhere else.
 

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The two lines in your picture are the oil cooler lines so no coolant would be leaking from them. Are you sure the coolant isn't coming from higher up and just pooling around the fitting making it look like its leaking? My car was leaking coolant around the front corner of the head gasket in behind the power steering pump and just above the water pump. Have a look to see if that is where it is coming from. Judging by the wetness of the side of the timing cover the leak is coming from higher up.

Pretty sure the automatic transmission lines go directly into the radiator and are not routed near these lines. Those two lines are 100% the oil cooler lines, if you trace where they head they go to the small oil cooling radiator in front of the rad and behind the intercooler.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes, they are definitely the Oil cooler lines. I believe you are right though Whilhelm. Yesterday I took the car for a 15min drive, and after driving I parked it, and came back a bit later to see what was leaking.
The leak had actually almost completely stopped. So I drove it a bit more, and let it sit for the night. This morning when I came out to look, there was only about a half dollar size of coolant (water in the case bc I didnt wanna wast any more coolant) on the ground.
Any idea for the reasoning behind this? My guess was that the new o-rings on the water pump needed to heat up and expand.
 

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Perhaps the car was not driven long enough to fully heat up the system and there was not enough pressure to force the leak to show itself. I would be worried about a leak that fixes itself they usually don't do that. have you looked around the base of the cylinder head for wet spots?
 

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If you still havent found the leak, check the small hose that goes from the throttle body to the back of the head between the intake manifold runners, on the passenger side. Mine had split and would leak intermittently for months. The coolant was running down the engine and forward, landing on the ground near the water pump (which I thought had gone - it was fine). It can be replaced with standard heater core hose, you don't need the OEM L-shaped one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Interesting fact about the leak. After i drove it, the leak almost completelly stopped, but after parking it and not driving for a day and a half, the leak slowly progressed. SO when i took the resevoir cap off to look how much coolant was gone, it started leaking really bad. And really fast. The pressure and heat buildup for some reason keeps the leak at bay.
I have yet to look in the places you guys told me, im getting the feeling i but an oring on the water pump on wrong, or something along those lines.
Ill keep it updated, thanks for your help and patience with me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Checked out the WP o-rings, they looked pretty good. Took a good look at the one that goes in the side back of the water pump, and it was sealed of fine, no wetness.
Its leaking alot now, primarily (after jacking front end up) onto the oil filter.
 

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Hey kookbook,
Don't know where you are with the leak but here's what I suggest based on your post regarding the free-flow after removing the radiator cap. I'm doubting that the head gasket is at fault or you would notice a lot more coolant when the engine is running with a leak that size. Have someone pressure test your cooling system via the radiator fill neck. This pressure will provide you with an induced leak which should be relatively easy to pinpoint. You could also do this yourself with an inexpensive test kit from Harbor Freight or the like. Hope this helps.
 
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