SaabCentral Forums banner

21 - 40 of 47 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,117 Posts
I don't know what causes the plastic in radiators to fail like it does - what triggers that delamination. The radiator in my '93 900S failed "spontaneously" recently and the plastic was literal mush. Is it just age? Contamination? Heat stress?

Replacing the radiator is a mixed bag - it's cheap and IMO worthwhile, but it's a bit of a pain to get in & out. The upside is that if you throw in that additional work/money, it makes the actual water pump replacement far, far easier. So much more access with the fan & radiator out of the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Might be a bit of everything. The OP says his is well cared for, maybe it won't be so bad. Mine had the typical burnt low speed resistor so basically it was constantly overheating and the entire cooling system was cooked (as well as the AC).
 

·
Registered
2000 93 SE Vert Auto 2001 93 SE Vert 5spd
Joined
·
169 Posts
Well, Saab #2 just started really leaking coolant, so looks like a new radiator for me as well, again. Culprit: The top connection of the radiator. At first I thought it was a clamp issue as it always felt a bit loose, but I should have known better. Saab #1 also failed at this connection.

I replaced the hoses on both cars with do88 hoses and may have done more harm than good. This one took about 6 months to become an issue. I will also replace the water pump, as it is much easier with the radiator out. I will try to leave the turbo and head alone this time around.

IMG_9715.JPG
 

·
Registered
1999 OG 9-3 'vert
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
I really hope this doesn't happen to me, very anxious to see how my radiator is when I start working on in in few days. Never had issue with this on any of my Saabs before. It sucks that you have to do it again.
 

·
Registered
2000 9-3 Aero 5d
Joined
·
641 Posts
Does the do88 hose use spring clamps or worm gear clamps?
The Do88 hoses and clamps I've used have been the versions that you turn with a screwdriver etc.
You buy them as a separate pack that goes with the hoses and are sized according to the hose diameter. - They are stainless steel also.
 

·
Registered
2000 93 SE Vert Auto 2001 93 SE Vert 5spd
Joined
·
169 Posts
I used the do88 clamps like Mort. Perhaps it is wise to stick with the spring clamps on the plastic radiator. I am still having some minor leakage issues at top radiator hose in Saab #1, hopefully I have not already cracked it by over tightening the clamp. I may switch to a spring clamp to see if that helps.

My concern with reusing the spring clamps is that the do88 hoses are not the same thickness as the OEM hoses. I think the hose in question is thinner. On the other hand, I tried reusing the spring clamps for the heater hoses at the firewall and they did not fit as the hoses are thicker than OEM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Screw-type hose clamps should not be a problem, I've done that on plastic radiators many times. In fact the OEM plastic intercooler uses screw-type clamps on the hoses. If the radiator is so brittle that a hose type clamp causes it to break the problem is not the clamp...

The reason the spring type clamps are used from the factory is because they maintain a constant tension and don't need to be retightened (and in a production environment they are faster to install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,117 Posts
People tend to really wrench down on worm gear clamps... I've replaced a ton a radiators and plastic thermostat outlets etc. where they have been cracked from people strong arming clamps. It's a fine line between enough and too much... I personally like the spring clamps (even though they can be a pain) because the take the guesswork out. Either that, or go back to metal cooling system parts. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
yes they are idiot proof and I re-use them whenever I can (about 50/50 since most aftermarket hoses, even some new Saab ones are too thick).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,117 Posts
A few years ago I finally caved and bought a set of spring clamp tools and never looked back. Sometimes newer is better!
 

·
Registered
2000 9-3 Aero 5d
Joined
·
641 Posts
I guess the alternative to plastic parts on a radiator is to upgrade and fit the Do88 Aluminium Radiator. However - The cost of it is quite extreme.
I would guess most people would get the intercooler before the radiator.
I would also guess the Do88 screw clamps are technically designed to support their radiator installation.
Anyway - Do88 makes some great custom gear for our Saabs and I'm happy they are still doing it.
 

·
Registered
1999 OG 9-3 'vert
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
I worked on it today little bit, got the belt off, air box, PS pump and drained the coolant. I kept looking at those radiator hoses and almost not want to change them anymore after hearing all these stories haha. Also, I could not find a leak for the life of me even with everything out and much clearer view of WP. Since I ordered the parts I will just replace them and see if I discover something while taking the WP off.
 

·
Registered
2000 93 SE Vert Auto 2001 93 SE Vert 5spd
Joined
·
169 Posts
Concerning the water pump removal... I had to remove the hard line to the turbo at the turbo and leave it attached to the water pump as I was not able to get to the banjo bolt. The tall AC thing was in the way, so I could not get a socket on it and there was not enough room for a wrench.

When I installed the new water pump I left the banjo bolt a little loose so that I could line it up with the turbo, but found that I was not able to tighten it at the water pump. I ended up marking the line, removing the water pump and tightened the banjo bolt with the water pump out of the car.

Does anybody have a trick for removing and installing the turbo line at the water pump?

Also, new washers will be needed when the banjo bolts are reinstalled. I purchased assortment sets of Cooper washers and NBR Sealing Gaskets from Amazon so that I always have a supply of new washers for the many banjo bolts on the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
You need to remove the cobra to get at that banjo. Even then you will need a stubby 12mm box/ring end wrench most likely.

to the OP: it’s best if you can pressurize the system before you start taking things apart so you can pinpoint the leak exactly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,117 Posts
On B2x5 motors you can also unhook the AC compressor to get more access. Not sure that works on B2x4 motors as they have a different compressor mount.
 

·
Registered
1999 OG 9-3 'vert
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
When I did this job few months on a T7 car, it was 2003 9-3 I was able to do it without any problems like that, I took everything off from the water pump. I am not sure how different it will be on my T5 now. I should be removing water pump later today so I will report how it went. I do remember playing around with extensions, angles, deep sockets, etc to get to some of the bolts but I was able to do it without removing anything extra.
 

·
Registered
1999 OG 9-3 'vert
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
Yea Jeremy did say that earlier in the post, I am excited to see it myself later today.
 
21 - 40 of 47 Posts
Top