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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2010 9.3 2.0. I had to replace the upper coolant hose twice within past 2 years (Part # 12787688) as it ruptured. Most recent one was this week (July 2020). All repairs were used using an after market hose. With this recent one, he is now telling me that there must be a pressure issue in the system which leads him to believe it to be a head gasket issue which would be a costly repair on a 10 year old car. I was going to try one more time and buy a genuine Saab part but if it really is something more than just a bad part, the car may go to the junkyard. My question is: has anyone had any similar experience or could offer any advice on what the possible problem could be that is causing this continuous problem (if not a head gasket issue). Thank you.
 

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That's dumb. There are tools for measuring system pressure, and even still it's unlikely that one specific hose would continue to fail. More likely, after the hose was replaced, the next-weakest hose would blow... not the brand new one all over again. Look at the hoses that failed - I'd bet money it's rubbing on something or worn motor mounts are putting strain on it, or the mechanic is using the wrong clamps (VERY common), or the aftermarket hose is garbage. Leaping to "failed head gasket" is skipping a bunch of key steps.
 

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Look very carefully at where the hose ruptured. Is there anything close by that could possibly rub on the hose? Is there oil or some other fluid leaking on the hose?

When you say ruptured, does that mean it actually has a jagged hole or flap in the hose?

Did this happen at a bend in the hose?

All this can make a difference. A bend is usually the weakest point in a hose. I suppose a really poor quality hose might just burst there for the heck of it. But normally, this only happens after years and years of thermal cycles (happened to me on 15 year old original hoses).

And jvan typed more quickly than I did!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the quick replies. I am attaching a photo of the breakage point as well as a photo of the part in question so you can see where it broke. See this, does it change your previous responses or trigger a different response?
 

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That T fitting broke off? That's what I'm getting from the picture.

Could be a poor quality T fitting. I would also make sure that whatever is connected to the part of the T that broke off is not tugging or pulling on the hose. Remember, the engine moves around under power.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yeah, the t fitting broke. I am hoping that since it was plastic and after market that it was a lower quality. I likely am going to get this aluminum t fitting (link below) and see how that goes first. The two hoses that connect are still good. I will discuss your the previous suggestions with my mechanic. He's honest and reliable and has worked on this car since I bought it 10 years ago.

 

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That is DEFINITELY not from a head gasket problem. Three likely possibilities:

1. Whatever is connected to that T should be supported, and it's not, causing strain on the T. If you had two (or is it three now?) fail in the same way, be looking at the hose that connects to the T and be sure it's properly installed
2. There is a heat shield missing or something hot too close to that T fitting and the plastic is getting soft with heat, then breaking
3. It's a poor quality hose, made with poor quality plastic, and not up to the job

My money is on #1. Getting an aluminum fitting would certainly be one approach, but if here is a support or fastener missing you may just be kicking the can down the road - strengthening the T may result in the next weakest thing breaking.

I'm not familiar with that hose, I would ask on the 9-3SS board how that fits together if you don't know and see if maybe someone can ID a missing bracket, fixture, etc. I'd bet money something else is the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok, so as a follow up, I had an in-person conversation with my mechanic this morning. Apparently, the last time it broke it was not exactly at that connector point that you saw in the photo I attached from my previous post, it was another part of the t connector, on the side. Every time there was a problem, it was somewhere on the t connector, not the actual hose. He said that there is no support or fastener there to prevent any movement. However, the positioning of the hose would facilitate any movement laterally on the length of the hose, which is in line with any potential engine movement, which should not put undo pressure on the t connector. We looked up hose options on his part ordering system and there was a hose with an aluminum t connector, an option that was not present the last time that he ordered the part. So he thought perhaps that this aluminum t connector is now available because many were having issues with the other lower grade version. Just a guess. Anyway, we are going to get the hose and aluminum t connector to see if that will solve the problem. Thanks for your insight and prompt replies. By the way, are either of you guys mechanics?
 

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I assume we're talking about #32 here:

275133


WIS does not give any particular instructions:

275134


Nevertheless, I don't think this part fails a lot, this is the first I've heard of that.

I popped the hood on my car, but the upper cover hides everything.
 

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I assume we're talking about #32 here:

View attachment 275133

WIS does not give any particular instructions:

View attachment 275134

Nevertheless, I don't think this part fails a lot, this is the first I've heard of that.

I popped the hood on my car, but the upper cover hides everything.
Believe me it fails more than you realize I’ve worked on these cars for 14 years probably just the quality. Not the first time I’ve seen issues with aftermarket cooling system parts.
 

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I had this happen last month. It was, I think, a Proparts part; it lasted less than a year.

The OEM Saab part is the way to go.
 

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Not exactly related, but there is a similar fitting on my XR4Ti, which is common to a pile of Ford 2.3 turbos. I bought a Dorman part to replace the decades-old factory part which is NLA, and two of them failed twice within a year. the second time i sent a nasty email to Dorman to which they immediately responded, "Wow, we're sorry, we'll send you a couple!" Like I need a bigger supply! I bought a Gates version and it's been fine for many years now.

So, TL;DR, I wouldn't be surprised to find Proparts can't make glass filled nylon plastic any better than Dorman. :)
 

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So this sounds like a part that should be snagged from a wrecked car in the junkyard. The OEM part probably lasts eleventy times longer than the crappy aftermarket one.
 

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Pro parts is garbage. I had the tee fail in under a year and blow coolant all over the engine bay. This is a well known failure point on the 2.0 engine. Get an aluminum one from the link posted previously.
As a bassist, I endorse this drummer's opinion. Get the Al part. 👍
 

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