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Okay, but that isn't an example of failing closed or DOA, and is a sample of one without any context, so I am having trouble understanding the significance of that.
 

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There have been reports of new thermostats failed. AFAIR, it was fail open through (as in, wasn't closing). Some regular here reported a bad Motorad that didn't appear to be the same as OEM and was a problem, but it's been a couple years since it was posted and I'm too lazy to search for it.

That said, I think you have a bad headgasket. That's the most common reason for a Saab to blow out the overflow. You can get an exhaust gas test kit from Amazon for about $15. I'd do that, along with a cold and hot compression test. When you do the compression test, look at the spark plugs for one that's very clean... also take a look in the combustion chambers for the same.
 

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Okay, but that isn't an example of failing closed or DOA, and is a sample of one without any context, so I am having trouble understanding the significance of that.
Okay, but that isn't an example of failing closed or DOA, and is a sample of one without any context, so I am having trouble understanding the significance of that.
Sounds like you want a peer reviewed study, sorry, best I can do is anecdotal.

I've had a thermostat fail shut 3 times personally and once on a friend's car.
My Saab, my BMW E28, my '71 Charger and my brother in law's Cortina.

In each case the valve would stick and would open if you gave it a nudge. Without looking into it too deeply it appeared that the spring would apply and uneven pressure causing a jam.
Probably could have trimmed the valve so it didn't seat so hard but I bought a new thermostat of course.

Don't know about the the BMW and Saab but the Cortina and Charger had Tridon brand.
 

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Okay so I've noticed I drive in the morning to my work and I'm on the highway going 70-80 mph after normal temperature for a few min that's when the overflow starts happening..but I drive home from work the last 2 days and normal temperature and not driving so fast on the highway 55-60mph both situations w heat blasting. Very hot heat..the overflowing doesn't happen driving home..I'm so confused about it. I think maybe it's a head gasket. Unfortunately!! Oil is fine.but I think exhaust is getting into the cooling system. I am going to do tests. Air Leak.compression it runs great .smooth. fast.nothing out of the exhaust but cant figure out driving fast it happens and 15-20 mph makes a difference. I've done so much work on cars but thing problem got me stumped
 

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You can also do a cheap leak down test. Hook a compressor up to an adapter and put pressure in the cylinders. You'll need to rotate the engine via the crankshaft pulley to close valves. A head gasket leak should get you air coming out the bottle.

I used a fitting from a compression guage that fit the spark plug hole and some fittings from the hardware store in between to adapt back to a compressor hose fitting. Cheap leak down test by looking and listening
 

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Funny u say my radiator my father had similar problems with a Ford esape.changed his radiator and was good.i did put stop leak in it years ago had a hose leak though it would fix in a jamm .but didn't and fixed the hose was fine. Maybe is radiator. Oil also like that compression test in the cylinders.cool idea.thanks gonna try a few test is there any way yo check a clogged radiator. Except change?
 

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You can get a radiator for less than $200...(check autohausaz.com). Antifreeze and distilled water...worst case another $30...that takes you to $230 parts and a 1 hour job. This for most of us would be a 1 hour job as a DIY project...if a mechanic were doing it would probably charge for 1.5 to 2 hours @ $70 = $140...parts and labor for $370 - $400.
It is pretty straight forward to R&R the radiator...even if mechanics isn't your thing, you would probably find yourself well able to do it.
Thanks for all the feedback. I like to have something to mention when working with the tech Sarkari Result Pnr Status 192.168.1.1 .
 

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Check your freeze plugs. I had one go and for the life of me and a couple of ASE certified mechanics couldn't figure it out. It was an Oldsmobile, but the plug had enough just enough corrosion let air into the system and it puked anti-freeze out of the overflow when it got up to temp. And I mean it really lost a lot. It leaked a little out of the plug, maybe a few drops that dried when the engine was shut down but just looked a little corroded. We did this with the car up in the air, that's when we saw the one freeze plug get a little wet.
 

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Cool thx for the. I'll check out the freeze plugs. I drove around this weekend. If I stay under 55moh e the heat on high it won't over flow at all.im thinking it maybe the radiator..ight be clogged some where. Thank you guys for the help u appreciate it bigtime
 

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Cool thx for the. I'll check out the freeze plugs. I drove around this weekend. If I stay under 55moh e the heat on high it won't over flow at all.im thinking it maybe the radiator..ight be clogged some where. Thank you guys for the
 
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