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Quick questions - My Vert roof only sometimes goes up & always down. I think the issue either is the relay or motor, as I'm getting battery voltage to the relay holder. From the relay to the motor Im getting +11.6 when going up (always works) and -10.6 when (sometimes works).

Relay issue? or something else?
 

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By the noises created you should be able to tell what's going on. Are the relays clicking but no motor sound? - then you could have muck in the motor around the commutators. If you are not getting a click from the relays then there is your answer. Or if you are getting a motor sound and no movement then hydraulic fluid level needs checking. The most likely problems with the hood mechanism is low or contaminated hyd fluid.
 

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By the noises created you should be able to tell what's going on. Are the relays clicking but no motor sound? - then you could have muck in the motor around the commutators. If you are not getting a click from the relays then there is your answer. Or if you are getting a motor sound and no movement then hydraulic fluid level needs checking. The most likely problems with the hood mechanism is low or contaminated hyd fluid.
Well said. There also is the possibility of a small leak in the hydraulic tubing/fittings. Oil will be present under the rear seat if that's occurred.

Extreme examples of low fluid will have a "groaning" or "popping" sound when moving the roof.
 

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I hear the Vert Top motors are quite bullet proof; my one shorts out the fuse and this stops the top from working. Can I get inside the motor and clean it up? or should it be brought to a shop to have them get in it?

In Misu's project thread he mentioned going inside the motor and cleaning up the muck about...
 

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Well, the motor and pump are in one housing. What many people call cleaning up the motor is really the pump, etc.

You can do as much as you like.

However, I'd suggest that you be smart about this and eliminate all of the other factors before you get to that tear down. Bleeding a completely empty hydraulic top system is no small task in itself -- very tedious.

Clean the contacts outside the motor housing. They are probably oily and corroded. Clean the outside of the housing so that there are no electrical paths between the contacts. Do the same for the switch.

If you still overload the fuse, then start thinking about the removal/rework. Unless you are familiar with motor repair, I would seriously think about buying a rebuilt one or getting it rebuilt. It's not that hard, but if you put the stuff back the wrong way and hook it up you risk damaging other electrical components and that just gets costly.
 

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Well, the motor and pump are in one housing. What many people call cleaning up the motor is really the pump, etc.

You can do as much as you like.

However, I'd suggest that you be smart about this and eliminate all of the other factors before you get to that tear down. Bleeding a completely empty hydraulic top system is no small task in itself -- very tedious.

Clean the contacts outside the motor housing. They are probably oily and corroded. Clean the outside of the housing so that there are no electrical paths between the contacts. Do the same for the switch.

If you still overload the fuse, then start thinking about the removal/rework. Unless you are familiar with motor repair, I would seriously think about buying a rebuilt one or getting it rebuilt. It's not that hard, but if you put the stuff back the wrong way and hook it up you risk damaging other electrical components and that just gets costly.
I alredy had the Saab Indy shop look at it and they said the motor is shorting out the fuses everytime it was activated and i am 100% sure it has been attacked by the elements. I will take it to the engine house that did my head and see if they can get in it and clean up for a fair cost or it sounds like a new pump is in order.

thanks
 

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Are all the electrical contacts clean? First open the hood and look at the "convertible top" fuse along the right fender, is the fuse new? Are the contacts inside the housing clean? Are you sure they are clean? Are you SURE they are clean? I had to actually stick a drill inside the housing and drill the corrosion off to expose fresh copper. I did this after spending many hours over multiple days troubleshooting the system with the rear seat out 3 times. If the fuse is good then follow the system through the car and clean all connections thoroughly. Check the hydraulic fluid level and enjoy the perfectly working top.
 

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First open the hood and look at the "convertible top" fuse along the right fender, is the fuse new? Are the contacts inside the housing clean? Are you sure they are clean? Are you SURE they are clean? I had to actually stick a drill inside the housing and drill the corrosion off to expose fresh copper.
My roof will not open today; it did the usual groaning last night when closing and for the first time it had to be given a hand to get it moving to the up position i.e. my partner lifted the hood slightly and then managed to close it up ok (and quite speedily - it's not slow when working). I think it's probably a coincidence that she wont open today but could we have done something lifting the roof 3 inches?

I can't find my MM to check for voltages but the relays are clicking and I have swapped in known good ones but to no avail. There is no motor noise whatsoever; the fuse holder in the fender (old style 1989) looks pretty cruddy indeed, in fact I'm surprised it ever worked...

My question: the relays 'click' even when this large fender fuse is disconnected; I'm assuming therefore that I need to eliminate this fuse as the culprit before going any further?

I'm not familiar with the type of fuse in the fender; what do I ask for at a motor shop - 10 Amp (it's grey and bullet shaped)?

Regards
Ez
 

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Correct -- the fuse must be sorted out. The relays are switching, but there is no power to switch on if the fuse isn't in place. Thus, the motor won't run, etc.

Bosch-type or ATS-type type fuse:

 

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Hi Paul,

yes; fuse as described - continental fuse apparently - 1989/90 they changed to blade fuses.

Hotfooted it to Halfords. 25 Amp fuse; should have been blue but fried to gray ;oops: - not by me but slightly tipsy partner - swapped in a new one, and all well, though will top up with fluid as 'groaning' a bit as per previous poster.

Thanks
Ez
 

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Hi Paul,

yes; fuse as described - continental fuse apparently - 1989/90 they changed to blade fuses.


Thanks
Ez
Good to know. My 1988 has the above fuses, but my 1991 has the blade type, so I knew they changed at some point.
 

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the 1987-88 'E' reg T16 spares vert I have has the blade fuse, but was going to suggest check oil level, as that's a usual sign when putting back up
 

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I've seen a few cases of the "missing" hydraulic fluid finding its way to the right rear passenger footwell floormat and carpeting. Passengers were getting nauseous from the smell in the cabin.

It took me ages to clean it out without removing the entire carpeting, and boy, was it messy. Years of neglect, with the POs just topping the fluid up every time the level fell. Had the motor shaft seal replaced 5 years ago and it's been leak-proof ever since.
 

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I used ordinary hydraulic fuid/jack oil obtainable from you local car spares shop... thought yoiu were getting a new ram or is that one of the other verts ;ol;
 

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Convertible top wont go down

My top wont go down, but will go up just fine. when i go to put it dwn, i set the parking brake like always, push the button and i hear a click from under the back seat, but no motor or anything. when i put it up, it works perfectly and smooth. was working fine today when i put it up, then went out to leave and wouldnt go down. :cry:
 
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