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My 2001 9-5 has rust issues and I will have to retire it. I am going to look at a 2011 9-3X with 115000 miles on a 2.0 and automatic transmission. What should I look out for? How does the 9-3 compare to the 9-5? Also need to figure out best way to sell the 9-5 with a rusted out frame. Sad part is it runs great.
 

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If you don't want to part out your 9-5 yourself, you can try to sell it as a parts car. If no one bites, it's off to the scrap yard. You do have to be honest about the amount of rust. (Do you have safety inspections where you live?)

The AWD system in the 9-3X needs regular rear diff fluid changes. The interior in general will be considerably lower quality than you are used to in your 9-5. It's probably going to be a nicer and more economical drivetrain, though.
 

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I do have inspection due in April. It is rusted on both sides where the rear subframe mounts. I believe it came from the previous owner not fixing the stopped up sunroof drains.
Does the 9-3 have good power?
 

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Since you know it's rusty, you'd have to disclose to prospective buyers. That's going to really affect your asking price, and buyers' interest. Of course if they buy it thinking they can fix it up, after you've told them, then it's not your problem.

I think the 210 HP 2.0 is quite strong, and seems more responsive than the turbo 2.3. You'd have to judge it for yourself, though.
 

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Since you know it's rusty, you'd have to disclose to prospective buyers. That's going to really affect your asking price, and buyers' interest. Of course if they buy it thinking they can fix it up, after you've told them, then it's not your problem.

I think the 210 HP 2.0 is quite strong, and seems more responsive than the turbo 2.3. You'd have to judge it for yourself, though.
I would never sell it without telling someone. I was considering hiding it to pass inspection though. That 9-3X is 3 hours away. I will test drive a 2007 9-3 convertible tomorrow that is only an hour away.
 

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Sorry, my comment was not meant to suggest that you wouldn't disclose, it was meant to say that you may well wind up selling for scrap. Around here I do see optimistic folks trying to sell fifteen or twenty year old Saabs with a shopping list of big issues for $1500 as "repair or use for parts". Since it's also possible to get a fully running Saab for $1500 anyway, I suspect that eventually those "repair or use for parts" cars go for scrap. I tried selling my NG900 as a parts car for $500, and ultimately it got dragged away for scrap, Koni shocks and recent suspension parts and all.

Back in 2015 and 2016 I drove some NG9-3 and found them to be okay, but hard to get going without stalling with the manual transmission. But I just recently purchased a 2004 Aero convertible with six speed manual and it's way easier to drive than my 9-5 Linear wagon with the five-speed manual. So it seems that these cars do vary (or I got better at using the clutch due to the 9-5....my non-turbo NG900 was a doddle to drive with the manual, in comparison).

Maintenance and repairs on the all wheel drive 9-3s would worry me.
 

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Sorry, my comment was not meant to suggest that you wouldn't disclose, it was meant to say that you may well wind up selling for scrap. Around here I do see optimistic folks trying to sell fifteen or twenty year old Saabs with a shopping list of big issues for $1500 as "repair or use for parts". Since it's also possible to get a fully running Saab for $1500 anyway, I suspect that eventually those "repair or use for parts" cars go for scrap. I tried selling my NG900 as a parts car for $500, and ultimately it got dragged away for scrap, Koni shocks and recent suspension parts and all.

Back in 2015 and 2016 I drove some NG9-3 and found them to be okay, but hard to get going without stalling with the manual transmission. But I just recently purchased a 2004 Aero convertible with six speed manual and it's way easier to drive than my 9-5 Linear wagon with the five-speed manual. So it seems that these cars do vary (or I got better at using the clutch due to the 9-5....my non-turbo NG900 was a doddle to drive with the manual, in comparison).

Maintenance and repairs on the all wheel drive 9-3s would worry me.
No worries. I could advertise it as "Mostly" rust free, but would still feel bad if someone bought it without question. I would pull my Maptun suspension and exhaust off before I let someone drag it off. I would keep my Klingons as well. The 07 9-3 convertible didn't have the same feel as my 9-5. The ride was just as harsh as my lowered 9-5 and I did not care for the slow shifting automatic transmission in manual mode. I have a buddy who is going to help me weld my frame up. Not to the standards of the $1850 quote I got from a body shop, but something that will pass inspection and give me some peace of mind.
 

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'78 99 GL; '83 900; '89 900S; '99 9-5 Wagon; '06 9-5 Aero Wagon; '08 9-3 Aero XWD; '11 9-3X
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The AWD system in the 9-3X needs regular rear diff fluid changes.
I've just agreed to purchase a well-cared-for 2011 9-3X (w/93K miles) and will pick it up in August. Very excited :)
This will be my 7th (and probably last) Saab.
Just wondering what was meant by "regular" rear diff changes?
i.e., should it be done every few oil changes, or at what mileage intervals?
What does the GM normally charge for this service (hrs. + parts)?
Thanks in advance.
 

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Probably better to post a new thread. There are plenty of older threads on this, but as the cars get older, experience increases.

I guess some GM dealers that used to distribute Saabs might have the techs to do this service. There are also some Saab shops around in Canada. Mostly in the Toronto, Ottawa, Montréal area it seems.
 

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US/CA service interval says 100 000 miles/160 000 km, but EU service interval says 60 000 km.
I recommend 60 000 km interval, because oils are cheaper than Haldex.
 
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