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Discussion Starter #1
Car is my wife's 2003 Aero. We are getting a code P0134 consistently. I delete the code and it comes back every day.

I have cleaned the connector to O2 sensor #2. Nothing....keeps coming back.

I replaced the sensor with a new one, a Delphi sensor that is plug compatible. Still getting the code.

the voltages that I see on my OBD II scanner seem to be normal and within range.

Any ideas from the experts here?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
to answer my own post I have found some information on the J16 connector that may be causing this.
 

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I'm having the same issue with my 03 Aero, although the code doesn't come back daily. I put a known good sensor in the car (from my 02) and still it came back.

I'm suspecting wiring somewhere but have not yet found the problem. If you figure it out let me know and I'll start looking in the same place.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
glad to help you out.....you have helped me a lot.

Seems like it is J16 splice that is 20mm from the main connector to the ECU. Look it up with he WIS and your will find that it is the ground wire from the sensor. from the O2 sensor to the connector in the engine compartment it is grey wire. then the wire is the blue one for the front sensor, and a grey one for the rear. They then go to the ECU and spice 20mm from the big connector. BLACK wire from ecu connect to BLUE and GREY wires. Solder and shrink tube this connection. some screen grabs from WIS attached. I circled rough where the splice should be.

Remember I have not done this yet, I am planning to do this tonight on my wife's car and will let you know how it works.

From Swedecar

"Find splice connection J16, cut it out and crimp and solder a new splice in its place and I think it will be fine.
You have to dig out the Trionic box and 20mm from the tie strap at ECU connector inside the main wire bundle is the J16 splice.
The splice is covered with shrink tubing and it is a blue and a grey wire coming in on one side and a black wire coming out.

It is more and more common with failing splice connections where the front and rear O2 sensor ground signal is connected.
 

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Interesting

I happen to have the ECU connector and about a foot of the wiring harness sitting on my desk in my office, I'm going to build a cable to program ECU's some time when I get a chance and picked it off of a car in the junkyard one day.

Can't find that crimp though. Gotta do some more investigation
 

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Discussion Starter #6
hERE ARE THE SCREEN GRABS.....I HOPE
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Interesting

I happen to have the ECU connector and about a foot of the wiring harness sitting on my desk in my office, I'm going to build a cable to program ECU's some time when I get a chance and picked it off of a car in the junkyard one day.

Can't find that crimp though. Gotta do some more investigation
it is supposed to be 20mm from the zip tie that goes around the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Found j16

Well I found J16 splice. It is in the middle of the back of the bundle of wires on the main ecu connector.

You have to cut both the large and small zip tie back there and wade into the wires. the splice is like 2" long and the wires are double back on each other. the 20mm is the length of the black wire that goes into the plug.

The WIS makes it sound like it is 20mm from down the harness, but it is actually in the middle of the plug and buried when all the zip ties are in place.

I am going to cut it out and solder and shrink tube the wiring in the AM.

Will try to post photos again.
 

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found it

you're right that you have to cut the two wire ties, it's bundled in there.

In the bundle there are three two-conductor wires that are jacketed in black. Two of them are the O2 sensor wires. One has blue and red coming out of it, the other has gray and green The gray and blue then go into the shrink wrap and the other end comes out black and goes into the big ECU connector.

In the photo below, the shrink-wrap is standing straight up and the two jacketed wires for the O2 sensor are coming out on the right side.

(it's handy having an ECU harness sitting on my desk to take the photos)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
found it

you're right that you have to cut the two wire ties, it's bundled in there.

In the bundle there are three two-conductor wires that are jacketed in black. Two of them are the O2 sensor wires. One has blue and red coming out of it, the other has gray and green The gray and blue then go into the shrink wrap and the other end comes out black and goes into the big ECU connector.

In the photo below, the shrink-wrap is standing straight up and the two jacketed wires for the O2 sensor are coming out on the right side.

(it's handy having an ECU harness sitting on my desk to take the photos)
You got it. The shrink tubing is filled with a potting compound something like hot glue. You can see it coming out of each end it is that yellowish stuff. I tried cutting the shrink tubing off, but it is glued into a solid mass with the tubing.

Finally I cut the wires at each end of the tubing and slid a piece of new shrink tubing on the black wire and and stripped the wires and soldered the connection. I slid the shrink tubing over the soldered splice and heated it with a heat gun.

I will try to post photos and will also try to see if I can get an ohmmeter reading on the splice.

I guess the metals in the crimped splice corrode inside all that potting compound. the fact that this is a max 1 volt circuit probably makes it worse.

My OBD II reading on O2 #1 swings over a pretty wide range now. It seemed to be more at mid range [.5 volts] before.
 

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very interesting... I am going to have to start doing some live readings from my O2, although the one that is causing my CEL is the rear one. Must say that since it's gotten hot out I've not seen it for a while. But I do wonder if it's this wire since replacing the O2 with a known good one didn't solve the problem.

another day, another project!
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
It is certainly worth a try. Not too much work. You know the harness end now.

I am sure you have removed the ECU before and know that routine. Once you disconnect the ECU connector and peel back some of the tape you can get to the crimp for removing and soldering.

At least you will know you have a good connection for that O2 sensor ground.

Swedecar on that other Saab Forum seems to have seen this problem many times......he says that this connection gets rotten with age. and that is it.

In my mind soldering and shrink tubing is better than the original.

can I do this??? http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/members/gallery.html?memberID=972&do=show&id=20083
 

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Old thread but people read these things when they have this problem - like me. One bit of advice I have after doing the job: The wires coming off the faulty splice in question lead to two other splices. Being someone who regularly repairs low voltage wiring as part of my job, I figured that if one splice went bad, the others would too. So I opened one. What I found was only one splice. The thick black wire has a shield - the braided wire type. That's the only splice. It splices to a smaller black wire that I assume goes to chassis ground. The other two wires go into that shield, unspliced. I soldered the shield / black wire crimp and wrapped up the connection. I didn't open the other splice. It was obviously the same type of "shielded, twisted pair" wire.

My point is that if you get the PO134 code and do the J16 repair, you only need to do the one splice. The others in there may look like that need it, but they don't.
 
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