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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

I would like everybody to comment on performance clutch upgrades.

My project engine still has the old -'90 flywheel with 8 1/2 inch clutch.
I might go for a later '90-on 9" clutch when converting the flywheel or I even might consider the 9K clutch with the appropriate flywheel. This would all be possible with original Saab parts.

But to be honest, I do not want to install a clutch with bigger diameter. Sure it will hold more torque, but the gearbox will be even worse to shift than ever. Jörgen Eriksson told me to go for the smallest and lightest clutch disk possible, so that the synchronizers do not have to work that hard. Sounds reasonable, especially because I am going to use a custom boost controller to be able to tailor the boost curve to eliminate the big torque hump with rising boost at low revs.

But there are other performance clutches out there. For example the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch. Has anyone ever had one of those on their Saabs? What is the friction compound made of? Is it usable for a car that is a daily driver? What about the pedal forces?

AP Racing offeres some clutch upgrades, too. They do not recommend using sintermetallic compound on a street car and I agree with this. In their online catalogue I did not find a clutch disk with an organic compound for Saabs but there is a french company which offers complete AP clutch sets for a reasonable price.
I remember that some time ago Swedish Dynamics offered a copper pucker clutch disk. I believe Erik van Spelde has an AP copper pucker clutch disk. Is this really usable for road traffic?

What do you recommend for my application?

Best regards,

Tadek
 

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The recommendation that I have from AP, Sachs and Helix is that it is the pressure plate that should be uprated first and that the friction plate should only be changed if the clutch is still slipping.

To reduce the rotating mass to a minimum on my car, I will be going with the Fidanza flywheel (just under half the weight of the standard one) which requires the 228mm pressure plate. Helix Motorsport provide both an uprated pressure plate and organic friction plate in this size.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cool!

I just found a swedish website which tells me, Helix also offer their clutch in 215mm.
Alex, do you have the web address of Helix Motorsport so I can contact them?
Cheers,

Tadek
 

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And the link ism tadek...? :)
Daniel
 

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Hehe, ok, now we're talking ;)
Daniel.
 

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The 215mm clutches are a relatively new addition. Last time I checked the website they were only listing the 228mm clutches.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No more comments on performance clutches? You must be kidding me :lol:

I cannot believe everybody converted their monster power Saabs to 9K clutches?!
 

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Question, i put a new clutch on my 89 900S and it was a little larger with more pressureplate surface area(it was the borg&beck oe replacement,in comparison to the stock clutch). Might this added rotational mass make my tranny start to crap out(the day after i did the clutch, when i really started driving it, was when the tranny problems began)?
 

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I'd avoid recommending multi puck copper discs for street use, especially with an aluminum flywheel. I've been going through a disc and a pressure plate per year, summer driving only, with such setups. The copper is rather abrasive, and basically machines both the flywheel and pressure plate. That said, without going to bigger diameter pieces, using copper pucks is one way to keep the clutch from slipping I guess.

I ran a 4-puck copper disc on an aluminum flywheel, 215mm, and it was rather difficult starting uphill and low speed stuff, like parking. Then I ran a 215mm 6-puck copper disc with a lightened stock flywheel and had similar results. I could feel the heat, if you will, through the pedal.

The all conquering setup seems to be the Quartermaster twin disc from Scanwest. They use two organic discs with a custom flywheel. The whole combination, flywheel and all, only weighs 18lbs, but two caveats - first, there is a noticeable chatter with the pedal out, at idle, from the discs. Second, the asking price is in the US$1300-1400 region.

Having just spend C$1600 on that GT30 turbo, I have to go 'cheap' and have just got my 6-puck disc 're-pucked' from Bully Clutch (www.bullyclutch.com) in Ottawa with ceramic pucks. We'll see how that goes.
 

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My 9000 clutch has yet to slip (after 4 years).
I still think it's the best bang for the buck. Maybe the weight does take some HP away, but that can be fixed by lightening the flywheel.

If I really wanted to save some weight, I would dump the 16" aero wheels and get something much lighter than those. I think that will yield much better results than the 2-3 pounds at the flywheel.
 

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Currently I am running with a late 900 flywheel and the 228mm clutch from a 9000. This has already started to slip after only 1000miles and running 1.2bar. The plan is to replace the flywheel with an aluminium one, and go with the Helix 228mm clutch.

Removing weight from the flywheel does have benifits, especially in the lower gears where the weight reduction is effectively multiplied by the gear ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I still have the original 215mm clutch on my engine, original TE05, modded APC with 1,2 bar max boost which tapers off to 0,9 , water injection, FMIC from Cosworth and other stuff, and the clutch works fine after 130000 km or approx 81K miles. But my project engine is going to have the 2.3 head, 2.1 intake, port and polish job, cosworth forged pistons, piston oil cooling, TD04 16T turbo with 3" downpipe, custom boost controller etc. and I have not decided about the clutch, yet.

I do not want to reduce the weight of the clutch to increase hp at the flywheel, I wand to reduce the inertia of the clutch drive plate, so that the synchros do not have to work so hard between fast shifts (yes, I know, fast shifts are not possible in a classic 900...).
 

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I'm also facing clutch slip problems, what would be the ultimate option when I want to spend "only" ca. 600$ for the whole new clutch setup? I was thinking of a standard Saab 9000 clutch, and a lightened 9000 flywheel... but is there a better option considering I have already mentally prepared to spend around 600$ for the new setup?

-John
 

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I've just got a Sachs Race Engeneering clutch (pressureplate) and a disc from the 9k. The weight is about the same as the original clutch setup. No slip for the first 150km :cool: I hope this remains like this for the next few months...
 

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like was already stated here the main thing to upgrade is the pressure plate. once it's heated up a few times it reduces it's clamping force by a lot... the standard friction discs- as long as you get a real sachs are good for a lot of power. check out what happened to my AP friction disc -



so it's worth upgrading both !! :eek:
 

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My current clutch is a Sachs, and its lasted less than 2000miles. ;oops: :cheesy: Car is only running 1.2bar boost as well.
 

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I have a problem which i didnt have before i read this thread.

My clutch is a standard 228mm one found on the standard 1990 T16s,

I bought a 215mm clutch kit as i was told it would be ok for my car
, can i use the smaller plate?
Will this cause uneven wear on the flywheel? will it be weaker?
 
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