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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm deep into a clutch replacement and am experiencing some uber frustrating moments! Two problems. Any help at all would be much appreciated!

1. Ball joints connecting the lower control arm to the hubs. This has been a problem for me in the past on other cars (Volvo) and is now stopping me from removing the sub frame on the Saab. What is with these things! I'm at the point now where I've got the axles out of both hubs and am pounding the living daylights out of the top of the bolts. I finally got the drivers side one to come out, but the passenger side is still stuck after probably a half hour of pounding!

2. Intermediate shaft. This one is just a case of poor engineering if you ask me. (this one was EASY on the Volvo) Why, other than to torture me, did they make the intermediate shaft support bearing part of the alternator bracket! I took out the three bolts holding the bracket. I took out the 8mm hex bolt holding the bracket to the alternator. BUT I can't get the bracket off because I can't rotate the alternator out of the way because I can't get to the top alternator mounting bolt! Whew! ;) It took me a while but I did figure out that the accessory belt tensioner needed to be allowed to spring back into place to access the top alt bolt. But no combination of tools that I have will work in the tiny confined space alloted to access the top 8mm bolt. Why they chose to bury a 8mm hex head bolt up there is totally beyond me. Anyway, I figure I must go to the auto parts store and try and find the exact tool that I will need for that... anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks a lot! I can't wait to get the car running again.
Jamie.
 

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Seperation of the bottom ball joint from the strut is described on Munki's website or you can use the proper Saab tool that looks a bit like



I'm unable to comment on your other problem perhaps someone else will chime in as the day passes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool, thanks for the tips. I'll try Munki's hitting technique. I'll also check my local auto parts store for something similar to that tool that might help. I will not let a ball joint get the better of me! ;)

Jamie.
 

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If you're getting so much trouble separating the ball joint, why not just unbolt the control arm from the subframe instead?
 

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JamieR said:
...BUT I can't get the bracket off because I can't rotate the alternator out of the way because I can't get to the top alternator mounting bolt! Whew! ;) ... no combination of tools that I have will work in the tiny confined space alloted to access the top 8mm bolt...
That top bolt is a pain, shame you have to mess with it when you want to replace the clutch. The upper idler pulley has to come out first, then the tensioner is removed, then finally you can get to the upper bolt and the bracket.

I used an 8-mm bit in a fixed 3/8-inch drive socket holder from Sears or Autozone, not sure which. (The insertable bit holder I had was already ruined trying to use it on the lower bolt before i figured out where to spray the penetrating oil.) The threads are in the BACK of the bracket, opposite the head, so you have to soak both ends with something like PB Blaster or liquid wrench to break it loose.

See link below, section 2.4 and 2.5 for my notes on the upper bolt and bracket. (a) shows where you have to spray the end of the bolt (first time I ever had to use sub-sections for any car R&R!)

http://www.geocities.com/ng900set/Alt_repl/alt_repl2.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks PMI for the advice! After reviewing your site I think I'll try soaking the top bolt in WD-40 and then try to pry it out at the bottom again. I wasn't totally sure that the top could pivot at all when I was down there, I was wasn't going all out prying it away. But I may end up tearing all the pulleys apart in the end. It's just that I got the impression that other's managed the removal of the intermediate shaft without disassembling all those pulleys.

On the good news front the Munki hitting technique WORKED ON THE BALL JOINT! It only took a dozen good smacks and it just fell out. I was ecstatic!

Thanks a lot!
Jamie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
dip said:
If you're getting so much trouble separating the ball joint, why not just unbolt the control arm from the subframe instead?
I started doing that and got a little hung up on the rear control arm. I think I needed to spread apart the subframe where the arm attached. The bolt was removed when the subframe was removed, but it was still stuck. It's a good idea though. And one that I would have tackled more seriously if it came to that.

Thanks!
Jamie.
 
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