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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
It's time to replace my clutch master cyl. I rebuilt it 5yrs ago but it's wanting to be rebled every month or so now... Deciding I shouldn't rebuild it twice.

Does anyone have any experience with the master cylinders from O'reilly's or Autozone? For under $50 the price is right but is the bore and stroke correct? And does the part hold up for daily driving?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s....oap?model=900&vi=1265655&year=1991&make=Saab
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Noone has any experience to share with these...?
 

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I'd buy the cheapest one. Neoprene seals are neoprene seals, and in a small, straight iron bore, they're all going to be about the same.
The larger the bore of the hydraulic cylinder, the more critical the alignment of the piston in the bore. It might make a difference in a brake caliper, it does make a difference in a clutch slave cylinder, but but it doesn't make a gnat's scat worth of difference in a narrow bore.
 

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Not specific to this vehicle, but I've used McParts master cylinders in the past and have found the odds are in your favor that it will be fine...depends on the quality of the worker bees who handled your part though. I've had mc's from south of the border not fit right (threads too loose from the tap running too far or crossed) and I've had euro parts the same. And vice versa. I'd say give it a shot. The AZ one carries a lifetime warranty so nothing much to lose except time and maybe some knuckle skin ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd buy the cheapest one. Neoprene seals are neoprene seals, and in a small, straight iron bore, they're all going to be about the same.
The larger the bore of the hydraulic cylinder, the more critical the alignment of the piston in the bore. It might make a difference in a brake caliper, it does make a difference in a clutch slave cylinder, but but it doesn't make a gnat's scat worth of difference in a narrow bore.
I was concerned more if the stroke was too long for example, the possibility of displacing too much fluid and damaging the slave.
 

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I was concerned more if the stroke was too long for example, the possibility of displacing too much fluid and damaging the slave.
The stroke is determined by the travel of the clutch pedal, not by anything in the cast iron tube. When you install any new master cylinder, you might drive the slave beyond its normal range of travel. It might fail as a result. There's nothing you can do to change that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
New m/c installed and working fine so far. The studs suppled were too long--not threaded down to the firewall. Easily cured with a couple washers...
I was also concerned with the intake port sitting .5" higher than stock but it seems to clear the ABS plumbing.

One added bonus: The part has a lifetime guarantee--guess I won't rebuild an m/c ever again... :cry:

Not bad for $48.00
 

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Lifetime guarantees are the best when you plan on owning the car 40 years!
 

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Yep, sometimes autozone parts aren't the greatest but it's hard to top lifetime warranties
 

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Just replaced mine with autozone part, cant beat lifetime warranty...sadly it was my slave that was shot...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yep, sometimes autozone parts aren't the greatest but it's hard to top lifetime warranties
At this point in my life I would much rather replace something once with a $100 part then have to replace it several times with a $10 part...

Put 500 miles on the O'reilly m/c this weekend--working like it should so far...
 

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I feel the same way, but you would at least replace it faster a 2nd time :cheesy:. My clutch pedal is very (very) stiff, has been since i bought the car, is this caused by the clutch master or slave?

At this point in my life I would much rather replace something once with a $100 part then have to replace it several times with a $10 part...

Put 500 miles on the O'reilly m/c this weekend--working like it should so far...
 

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It could be that the pressureplate and/or the disk is worn.The further out the diaphram spring gets, the stiffer it acts. Look at the disk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Grrrrr!

Replaced the m/c again today--O'reilly's got me the part in one day and honored my warranty no problem but only getting 5000 miles out of the m/c is not so good...

The new m/c is from a different maker. The inlet pipe doesn't sit up so high and is more firmly secured to the m/c.

I still have some of the same problem though in that I don't get a firm pedal. There's a good inch of travel before any pressure/resistance starts to happen. The clutch then works but I really feel I have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to get good disengagement of the clutch.

The pin and holes for the clutch pedal are in good shape both at the actuating rod and at the top of the pedal where it mounts to the chasis.

If my slave cylinder were allowing air into the system wouldn't I also be leaking fluid out? Same thing with the line itself--if it were leaking air in wouldn't it also be leaking fluid out when under pressure?

I'm at a loss to fix my problem. Replacing the m/c helped a little but not enough, not like it was when I had a good saab m/c in place.

(oh, and I bleed the clutch by pressurizing the res. with a bike pump. I use a schrader valve fitted to a spare res. cover.)
 
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