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Discussion Starter #1
So I got all the clutch back in. Slave, new clutch and bolted it all down. Inserted the spindle.

Everything looked perfect, neat and clean. Looked like a brand new car.

Then TOOK out the spacer from the clutch and the fingers did not decompress onto the bearing of the slave. They stayed raised.

The spacer was locked in solid in the fingers of the clutch before installation. So much so I was worried that I would not get it out.
But in fact it just pulled out. And then I can put it back in with no resistance ????

Is that normal ? I don't think that is normal.

So what have I done wrong ?

PS. I have not bled the clutch yet.

PPS..I put loctite in the slave cylinder bolts. After what happened I took them straight out again (not laughing out loud) so they did not cure thinking that the whole thing will have to out again.

Need some help.
 

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A couple things:

It's possible to break the springs on the pressure plate if they're over extended, but you would usually find them flopping about if that happened.

If the pressure plate or disc is not properly installed the clutch disc can sort of have a reverse effect on the pressure plate, leading to these symptoms

On rare occasion, you can be shipped the wrong clutch for the car leading to these types of fitment issues.

A gap between slave and pressure plate is not entirely abnormal, especially if there was fluid loss and the system hasn't been rebled. The slave is collpased at this point. If you're sure things were installed correctly, and you have the correct parts, see if the pressure plate is correctly acting on the clutch disc by trying to push the car with it in gear. If it's tough to move - because the engine is properly/mechanically locked to the transmission - then you're probably fine. If you can push the car easily (without the engine trying to turn), then you have an issue.

You can see in this picture how a 228mm clutch fits on my old SPG - it looks like the pressure plate is collapsed, but it's fully engaged and the slave cylinder has enough travel to disengage it:

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks so much for your replay.

I have released pressure on the 6 clutch bolts that hold it to the flywheel, and now the spacer in the fingers is locked tight. So it works.

So I guess we can rule out wrong parts and over extending/breaking the fingers of the clutch.

I don't really know the best way forward here.

Have I overtightened the bots on the clutch to the flywheel ? There is no reference to torque of the clutch bolts to the flywheel in both manuals I have. One of which is the Bentley manual.

Should I take it apart again ? Not a problem. But prefer not.

The spindle goes back in just fine. So it must be positioned correctly....is that right ?

JUST TO NOTE....I forgot to grease the head of the spindle before the assembly of the clutch. Is that a problem ? Best to take it apart ? It slides in fine !


Tomorrow I have a full day to play with without rain.

Any advice will always be greatly appreciated.

This will be finished by the end of next week. LOL.

I'm loving this BTW. It is great fun.
 

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8mm bolts as used on pressure plate would typically require 15 ft-lbs torque, per the Bentley manual "Table a" on page 100-11. I use blue nut lock to prevent loosening. Probably should remove the 6 pressure plate bolts to verity that clutch disc is not installed backwards. Often clutch discs are marked "flywheel side" or "gearbox side" to help prevent doing this. In any case, thick spring pack on disc faces front of car. If it disc was installed wrong, check that the thin friction disc webs are not bent. On a new Valeo 7-7/8 inch non-turbo C900 clutch disc, I measured 8.4mm disc thickness with the leaf spring compressed. If your disc thickness is more than 1mm thicker than this, this could explain why the pressure plate spacer ring came out easily after tightening the pressure plate bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
8mm bolts as used on pressure plate would typically require 15 ft-lbs torque, per the Bentley manual "Table a" on page 100-11. I use blue nut lock to prevent loosening. Probably should remove the 6 pressure plate bolts to verity that clutch disc is not installed backwards. Often clutch discs are marked "flywheel side" or "gearbox side" to help prevent doing this. In any case, thick spring pack on disc faces front of car. If it disc was installed wrong, check that the thin friction disc webs are not bent. On a new Valeo 7-7/8 inch non-turbo C900 clutch disc, I measured 8.4mm disc thickness with the leaf spring compressed. If your disc thickness is more than 1mm thicker than this, this could explain why the pressure plate spacer ring came out easily after tightening the pressure plate bolts.
Thanks for the torquing references. I missed that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@ jvanabra

I took all apart....but did not take the assembly out. The pressure plate was not sitting correctly on the dowels but the clutch plate is facing correctly.

As far as I can see everything is as it should be now.

BUT...there is still space in the fingers.....not as much. JUST like in your photo.

I tried your test. I put it into 1st gear and the car locks. It goes nowhere.

So from I understand from your post, it should be good to go. Is that right ?

Can I start bleeding the clutch ?

Thanks again for everyones help.
 

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Definitely yank out the input shaft and put some grease on there - it only takes a moment. Then, yeah, I would move on to setting up the slave.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well the car started, and everything was spinning around. No flying pieces of metal....lol.

I have not put the plastic cover on just yet.

Drove it in 1st gear and in reverse in my courtyard (not enough space to get into 2nd) and everything engages properly. Drives OK from what I can tell.

However...

The clutch feels really light. Not sure how a brand new clutch feels on a Saab 900 but it feels silky smooth. Is it too smooth ? There is pressure in the clutch pedal but not as much as before.

My only problem is I can't torque up properly the nut on the hydraulic line connected to the slave. I don't have the right tool. It was seeping a bit so tighten it up a bit more with what I have. It might be enough now but not sure.

If it is seeping (a little), would have air got into the system ?
 

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If it's leaking, it's unlikely air got in and more likely fluid got out. A c900 clutch is surprisingly light - I think most people get acclimated to old clutches full of old fluid and get this feeling they are heavy. If you get full disengagement and smooth travel that's easy to modulate, it's probably right. Have someone move the pedal while you watch the slave/fingers - if you have good throw, I'd think you're good.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just wanted to say a big thanks to everyone. The car past its CT in France (MOT in UK)....not sure what it is is called in America) with flying colours and the clutch seems to work fine.

It is loverly and smooth....

BUT..something has happened to the indicators whilst at the testing station....(I will start a new thread)
 
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