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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I totally lost my clutch - pedal to the floor. Upon inspection, I noticed that there is a soft hydraulic line connecting two hard lines in front of the clutch housing, and the top connection appears to have separated.

I wonder how this could happen in the first place. Do I need to replace that soft line?

I tried to replace it, fill up the brake fluid resivoir, and restatrt the engine, but I still can't get any pressure in the system.

How to I repair this and repressurize the system and bleed it? The information in the Bentley manual is minimal about this situation.
 

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I just helped Ryan-in-nashville with bleeding the clutch. The title to the thread is (how do I hook up this pressure bleeding kit) You will find out an easy way to do it there.

Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My biggest problem right now is that I can't get the hard line off of the clutch housing, because I don't have the special tool, and I couldn't do it with a wrench and a screwdriver. It seems to be on real tight. How did you handle that?
 

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Did you remove the slave cylinder bleed screw that's right above the clutch line? That may or may not help.
Small wrench, extra patience, beer for calming effect.
As far as the pressurized bleeding, the bike innertube is a
pretty good way to go. I've done it that way by cutting out the valve stem area with enough excess tube to surround the brake resevoir opening and then gently securing it with a hose clamp around the threaded plastic neck.
 

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I don't understand why you need to take off the hard line, but if need be, is the line nut stripped? If it is use some vise grips on it. If it is fine get the bleeder out of the way (if in the way) and slide the box end of the wrench, if you can from the other end of the clutch line and take it off that way. If you have to, use another wrench as an extention. You can do this if you are using the box end on the nut and the open end is pointing up. Then take the box end of another wrench and place it in the open end of the other wrench. They will lock together to make good leverage.
 

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The clutch line has hardline ends and a flexible hose section
in the middle. The only remedy is an entirely new clutch line.
It might help to remove the clutch shroud and such, just to get a little more room for manuvering wrenches.
 

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I had the exact same problem in July! I took out the old line completely, and replaced it. Yes, trying to disconnect the line on the slave cylinder is a real pain but it is possible, you just have to have tons of patience. Replacing this line is a whole lot easier said than done.
 

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So you guys replaced it all?? Hard lines, and flex hose from master cylinder to the slave???

I just put mine back on and figured I'd try it again...

Just the flex hose is $75.00...I can't imagine what the rest of it would cost. But I guess I should go ahead and do it.:cry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes. Technically it is considered one piece. The original SAAB part is 80 bucks, and they have an aftermarket one that is 60 bucks. I just ordered one.
 

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Second time..

The clutch hose popped off again yesterday in some heavy stop and go traffic on the freeway. :x Had to catch a ride home and then my buddy and I went back in my trusty Toyota Tacoma 4x4 :cheesy:. Luckily, now that I am experienced in bleeding the Saab clutch, I had it going again in about 20 minutes. I drove it home and parked it, then ordered a new hose this morning.

Anyone know how difficult this thing is to replace? Any tips or tricks I should know about?? Am I going to have to do it from underneath the car, or can it be replaced from above?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's a pain in the butt, but you can replace it from above. Get yourself a 13mm flare nut wrench, and you should also either replace or loosen the master cylinder. it makes getting the hose on much easier.

it's a real ***** to get your hands in there and get those fittings threaded, because both ends are a real tight fit.

I recommend replacing the clutch master cylinder as well. it's only $100.
 

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I'm going to have to wait on the master cylinder. I just dumped a lot of $$ on new hubs, bearings, ball joints, tie-rod ends, rotors and lower control arms.

My plan is to get this hydraulic line replaced and then just drive it for a couple of months to stack some money back in the bank. Then I'll start up again with more projects.

Where do I losen the master cylinder in order to get the new hose to line up and thread onto it?
 

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You loosen the hydraulic line on the back of the master cylinder, IE: inside the engine bay. Trace the black rubber hose that runs from the underside of the fluid reservoir to the master cylinder, and then you'll see the metal pipe that you need to remove.

The clutch line to the slave is under significant hydraulic pressure, so of course it'll "pop off" if it's knackered.

Remove the slave cylinder's bleed nipple using a ring spanner, and then remove the hydraulic line using a brake-pipe spanner. Being as the line's already goosed, you could cut through the metal pipe at the slave and use a ring spanner on the fitting instead.

If you use an open-ended spanner, then that will slip and you'll have an even greater problem loosening the fitting.

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I've been having fun with my clutch recently, blown seal in slave cylinder (found an o ring on the floor of the work shop and put in in. (Seems to work!) I was having dificulty with the two nuts on the hydraulics until a friend gave me a 'brake spanner'. It was like a 6 point ring spanner with a small slot cut into it. They work a treat.
 

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I was able to work my new clutch line on with a flare wrench. Took some time, but it's on there (for 3 weeks now), and it's working great.

Thanks for the help everybody!
 

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If the soft line has separated from the hard line it must be regarded as a component failure. They are not supposed to come apart and the clutch line is supplied as one item; a soft line with preformed and prepared hard line ends which can attach directly to the master and slave cylinders. I had to attend to this repair myself recently when the centre soft line split on my Ruby.
To fix it yourself it helps to have the correct tool; a split ring brake spanner. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Split- Rin...1536576070&sr=8-2&keywords=split+ring+spanner
You do seem to pay over the odds for the clutch line in the US. Mine cost the equivalent of $28.
 
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