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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is just a repost of pics that used to be on geocities, from an old thread on access to the clutch cable adjuster etc...

Diagram of the cable routing:



The bracket is a small, but important piece of what makes the adjustment mechanism work right, and should not be bypassed, if using the Saab self-adjusting cable. When using one of the manually adjusted aftermarket cables, the bracket can be bypassed, or removed.

The single screw which holds it in place gets a bit loose over time, and may need tightening, or remounting with some thread locking compound. The slack in the cable should be between the 6A and 6B dotted lines, in other words, the curve should not be too big, or pulled so tight it looks flat.

The cable adjuster mechanism is accessible behind the fusebox in the engine compartment. The fuse box is held in place by a single plastic nut. After removing the nut, it will slide straight up. After unplugging the connector the the hood switch, the fuse box can be moved aside.







The cable adjuster takes up the slack in the cable. It does this by increasing the length of the cable loop between the stop at the firewall, and the bracket at the transmission with the help of the adjuster spring.

The length of the wire cable inside the adjuster sleeve does not change, only the loop gets longer or shorter, taking up any slack between the pedal and the end of the arm at the clutch. As the clutch wears down, the loop gets longer.

Cable adjuster at the firewall:



On older cars, the adjustment mechanism may not work perfectly, or the clutch may be worn beyond the end of the adjustment range. It is possible to get a little more life out of the cable by pulling out, and away from the firewall by hand (one should be able to hear a click or two).

At the clutch pedal, the cable end slips over a hook at the upper end of the pedal which is recessed inside the pedal bracket:



Slack in the clutch pedal is taken up by the pedal return spring. The pedal return spring has a curved end which keeps the cable in place, and also pushes against the clutch pedal to return it to its rest position:



If the spring slips to the side and rotates under its tension to behind the pedal end, getting it back in place is usually a lot of trouble because the space to work is limited (it makes more sense to attach it to something like the steering wheel while working on the cable).

DIY instructions for replacing the cable usually include using a piece of coat hanger wire to hook the spring and pull it away from the cable end. The other end of the coat-hanger is hooked over the steering wheel to keep the spring out of the way while the cable is being replaced.

Link to an old thread on clutch cable replacement:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=97959
 

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The first time I changed the clutch cable, I used a coat hanger to pull the spring back. It slipped and I hit myself in the mouth, so be careful.

Also, it would been much easier to do if the instrument cluster was out. I was suprrised how everything was visable then... Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
...much easier to do if the instrument cluster was out. I was suprrised how everything was visable then...
Why don't you post some directions for other people. Working in that small space at the pedals is no fun, and I bet someone else could use that idea.
 

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Why don't you post some directions for other people. Working in that small space at the pedals is no fun, and I bet someone else could use that idea.
That was a couple years ago and I didn't have the camera with me then. I was just trying to get my son's car back on the road ASAP.

However, I did do lots of documentation writing and technical instructing, so writing a document, explaning it and outputting it to a PDF file is not a problem... Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That was a couple years ago and I didn't have the camera with me then. I was just trying to get my son's car back on the road ASAP.

However, I did do lots of documentation writing and technical instructing, so writing a document, explaning it and outputting it to a PDF file is not a problem... Ron
Just write down what you remember, I may have some pics of the cluster somewhere...
 

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http://www.saabcentral.com/~munki/technical/interior/dashboard_insert.htm
I think all of this may be necessary to remove the cluster.
Not a bad idea to remove the seat and refurbish that area which becomes filthy after 10-20 years.:cheesy: Then missing change, keys, batteries, candy,cell-phones, and children can be found..:lol:
Then one can, by using the strong lites and mirrors, easily change the cable.
Spoiled by the old Saabs with simple slide out seats.
 
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